anchar

Have you tried putting a piece of zucchini in the tank and collecting the snails as they cluster on it?

Andrea

How To Recognise an Aquarist

1. The driveway and side of the house is filled with styro boxes, rocks, wood etc.
2. There are little pockets of sand and gravel on the front lawn, the shed is crammed with old filter parts, breeding boxes, gravel, broken nets, cracked glass covers..and the tools and lawnmower are leaning against the wall outside
3. Their shoes are taped up with gaffer tape but they leave the LFS with a new Eheim
4. The blender now lives in the fish room
5. The pantry houses more food for the fish than for the human occupants
6. There are enough empty plant pots in the shed to start a new nursery
7. There is $1500.00 of precious limetone in the driveway and a power disconnection notice on the table
8. Their undies are full of holes but the new $80.00 piece of wood looks fantastic!!
9. They have AAE, Virgin Freight and AQIS on speed dial
10. They named their kids Oscar, Cory, Angel, Val, Julie, Barb and Molly
11. The medicine cabinet if full of fish treatments
12. They can't go out to the party because there's a documentary on about the spawning behaviour of chromides
13. They cancel a dinner engagement at the last minute because their rams might spawn soon and they want to watch
14. They can't find panadol, but Melafix is on hand
15. Latin is the preferred language
16. Talk of "spitting" and "swallowing" is allowed at the dinner table
17. There isn't any freezer space left for human consumables
18. More emotion is shown at a fish death than the plight of the refugees
19. They notice that 1 out of 253 Uaru fry is missing but they have no idea what day it is
20. They can't hear their partner calling them, but can hear a splash from the back room
21. There are near empty bottles of 5 different brands of buffers and salts in the cupboard
22. There is a box of broken heaters stashed away for safe keeping in the linen cupboard
23. The different types of limestone in the shed have common names eg. cathedral rock, sandwich rock, lacey rock, holey rock etc.
24. There is silicone on every article of clothing own
25. They don't notice the microworm smell till a visitor asks what the hell the stink is
26. Their kids eat black and gold raw oats whilst the microworms get Uncle Toby's brand
27. They own at least one piece of clothing with a fish picture on it
28. They miss meals to pay for the new colony that they have ordered
29. Their partner can't find any extension cords, power paks or double adaptors but they know they bought new ones
30. When they turn off the power at their house, all the homes around them get a power surge
31. The fish shed is neater than the house
32. The only place to sit is on the floor
33. Verge side pickups become a mecca for "useful stuff"
34. The brakes are suddenly slammed on when a piece of poly pipe (read pleco home) is spotted along the freeway
35. Polygamy, threesomes and harems are acceptable
36. They wonder why the groceries cost so much, but don't mind forking out $600.00 for three fish
37. They refer to pregnant women as "holding"
38. They travel all over town looking for the "perfect" shell
39. They can strip and repair a filter inside of 5 minutes blindfolded, but can't replace a light globe or washer
40. The fridge is full of brine shrimp and bloodworms in icecream containers
41. They can't hear the baby crying but sit up all night nursing a catfish
42. The warmest room in the house is the fishroom
43. There is always enough time to visit the LFS...but they didn't get round to picking up the kids
44. They consider that talking to fish is acceptable, but talking to other pets is odd
45. When a friend has a baby, they congratulate them on the spawning
46. They consider a tank of fish to be people
47. They have no problem doing waterchanges at 10:30pm or later even though it is not an emergency
48. They never have money for anything, but there's always money somewhere for fish
49. Their bookshelf is comprised exclusively of aquarium books
50. The favourites list in their web browser is comprised exclusively of aquarium links
51. It's hard to get to their bed, because of the tanks in the way
52. No one can understand why they have so many fish
53. There are a stack of net frames in a box...just in case they may be useful later
54. They have no trouble spelling Astatotilapia latifasciatus off the top of their head but need a dictionary for words like Wednesday
55. They find out that the spare room was actually built to house beds, not tanks
56. They nag all their neighbours for empty ice cream containers
57. Their sister can't find any of her hair lacky's
58. They worry more about how clean and tidy their tank is than their home
59. They spend more money on fish food and medicines than on their own shopping
60. They sit down in front of the TV to watch a new release movie and have to play it 4 times; they remember absolutely nothing of the movie except that in the last 12 hours, their shy catfish has shown its face for a total of 4 minutes
61. Ten minutes of watching television bores them stupid, but they'll stare into a fish tank for 3 hours without a break
62. All the kitchen jugs are scattered through the fish rooms
63. All the sharp kitchen knives are now blunt from cutting poly, wood, rock etc.
64. Tea spoons and desert spoons are bent out of shape
65. There are bags of pool salt in the driveway....and no pool
66. They can never find 2m of continuous airline, but there is about 20m worth of 30cm pieces
67. The bicarb has vanished from the pantry
68. The dogs & cats are allowed on the lounge/bed/arm-chairs/lap and in the car/dunny/bed...but not the "...bloody Fish-Room!!!!"
69. Guests are "escorted" into the Fish Room/Shed and told the details of your latest acquisition/spawning/release...like it or not!!
70. Saturday nights are spent doing water changes
71. They spend three days bent over a never ending bucket of gravel - scrubbing the muck off of it
72. ...and then sit bent over the same 500 kg of gravel extracting the 2mm brown gravel from the 5mm white stones
73. They have enough left, but just want that little extra BIO-MEDIA for assurance
74. They continually ask their partner where the scissors are; even though they were the last to use them
75. They push through the pain barrier when lugging buckets of gravel, but complain all the way back to the car with the grocery bags
76. They have no idea what state Geelong is in, but can pin point a location on an unmarked Lake malawi shoreline map
77. When their partner yells "Where the hell is..." they have already left the room before hearing what the missing item is
78. There aren't any bag ties for the rubbish bags left in the drawer
79. The holes in the colander/sieve are blocked with gravel
80. There aren't any pot scourers on the kitchen sink, but there are 3 in the fish room, 2 in the loungeroom, 4 in the spare room and 9 in the garage
81. There are more Tupperware lids than containers in the cupboard
82. All the buckets have "Fish Bucket" written on them, including the replacement ones that their partner just bought
83. There are never any towels in the linen cupboard, but there are tons of them in the fish shed
84. Their partner goes to re-pot that house plant and finds an empty bag of peat and a crumpled up (empty) packet of fertiliser sticks
85. Their partner backs over a piece of wood on the lawn and they are more concerned about the broken wood than the staked tyre
86. They detected white spot on fry but didn't see the (now spilt) cup of tea on the floor
87. Their cook books include recipes for "Do It Yourself Fish Foods"
88. They re-arrange all the zucchinis in the fruit and veg section of the supermarket, ensuring that they choose the one with the least blemishes
89. They rush for a towel to clean up slops on the front glass, but sit and watch the bundy and coke soak into the carpet
90. The toilet bowl is stained because all the "CLR clear" was used on that second hand tank bargain
91. The second hand tank bargain ended up costing $30.00 more in "CLR clear"
92. They use silicon to fill holes in walls, seal gaskets in their car, plug up holes in shoes, fix the kid's Star Wars figure, as a substitute for tap washers, seal the bird bath.....
93. They see fish patterns on the lino in the loo at the local pub
94. They hear the word Veija used during a TV add for a Latin musical ensemble and suddenly become interested
95. The carpets in their car are littered with bits of rock, wood and "unextractable" beach sand
96. All the masonary drill bits are blunt from their use in creating limestone "rock art"
97. They can only be contacted via PM
98. Their kitchen tongs are missing after they were used to extract shells and coral from the boiling pot of water on the stove
99. They feel that it is never too cold or wet to collect limestone for that new set-up
100. They won't retrieve a football from the roof for fear of falling, but will confidently clamber around cliff faces in search of that elusive perfect rock
101. They drive back from the beach dragging the exhaust, but won't stop to offload any rock to relieve the burden
102. They are so lazy as to drive 150m to the corner shop for smokes, but will haul limestone for 12km back to the car without complaining
103. They replace an old tank fluoro on the same day, but the globe in the laundry has been blown for 7 months
104. They walk out of Spotlight with more dacron than an upholster would use in a year
105. They constitute the largest majority of both in and out patients at Graylands
106. Their kids warn friends; "Don't even look at the tanks. Don't say anything about them, he will see your interested and you won't be able to get away from him, for hours"
107. Second freezer is for the normal/people food
108. A marinara dinner consists of the food that the fish reject
109. There are no ice cube trays in the freezer, well none that actually have ice in them
110. Their portable generator has its oil changed on a two monthly basis, just in case, but their car is still only 3000km overdue
111. Their water changes take only six hours each week. (Oh and next week they promise that they will get around to installing the dishwasher)
112. Their garden lawn is barren, except for where the hose from the tanks waterchanges reaches; there the lawn is lush and green
113. Their partner yells everytime they have a shower because it has an inch of sand on the floor of the recess (ok, ok...I'll clean it up now..... )
114. They will only date someone of the star sign of Pisces
115. You are happy to spend $500 on a new tank, but only $5 on something for the kids
116. They have a jar of recycled elastic bands
117. There are corresponding piles of used fish bags shoved in drawers, the pantry, on shelves...
118. Buckets are a main decorative feature in the living room
119. Their friends, who are into fish, use them as tech support
120. Their idea of a holiday is visiting the third world countries, so that they can see where their favourite fish come from
121. They constantly complain about bent nets or holes in nets, but can't justify the price to replace them (even though there is always money for fish)
122. They join a fish forum and realise that they are already friends with nearly all the members
123. They've lost more money in fish that have died than they've spent on any other hobby (drinking is a hobby)
124. While watching Amazon documentaries, they impatiently wait for cut scenes to what's living beneath the water and not the bird on the shore line
125. During said documentary, they can identify the fish that the birds are eating, but haven't a clue what type of bird it is
126. Word association always leads to fish somehow eg. Africa - Malawi -"Malawi cichlids", Brazil - Amazon - "Amazonian cichlids)
127. A trip into the city is now boring to them because Perth CBD doesn't have fish stores
128. Their wallets are bursting with LFS business cards and the pics. of the kids have been relocatted to the bedside drawer
129. They would rather be broke and have those fancy fish, than have money and "common" fish
130. They wonder why there are so many flies in the house during summer and mosquitos during winter, then realise that they used the fly wire on the door for making fry savers
131. When they come home and notice there is white spot, it causes more mental damage than when they walk in on their parents going at it
132. Phrases like.."What do you mean you want a bath? Where's the driftwood gonna go ? Have a shower instead...what buckets in the shower ?" are commonly heard in their house
133. There's one day every week, where they walk into a room and the carpet goes "squelch squelch squelch"
134. They can't sleep at someone else's house because without the bubbling and humming noises, it is too quiet
135. They somehow have over 50 appliances running from one wall socket
136. Their shelves look like a chemist shop drug display
137. The people in the shop give them strange looks when they purchase several large bore syringes along with 2 tons of aquarium stuff
138. When going through the grocery bill they notice that the most they spent on 'human food' was $4.95, but for the fish it was $12.95 (zucchini)
139. They cause a 10 car pile up when they slam on the brakes to checkout a roadside council limestone dump
140. The dishes are only washed so that the sink can be cleared for water changes

Andrea

Filtration
by David Midgely

I currently have 14 tanks in my fish garage – all setup with varying species of Lamprologines. I keep Julidochromis sp., Chalinochromis sp. and the odd Neolamprologous sp.. Some readers will know I am also involved with ACE (Australian Cichlid Enthusiasts – an online association of cichlid keepers (current numbering well over 1000 members). We get a large number of queries about which types of filters are best for african cichlid aquariums. I run virtually all my tanks on simple air driven filters, and while I know the hobby is obsessed with water turnover, powerheads and other "hardware" I thought it was worth a brief look at another method of filtration – once more popular now out of style.

Sponge Filters

At the cheap end of the spectrum, sponge filters provide excellent and efficient form of biological and mechanical filtration. There are a number of types available and generally at low (< $10) cost. Most are relatively simple uplift connected to one or two sponges and are powered by air displacement of water in the uplift tube via an airpump (for which I recommend Schego brand).

One of the currently available types features an upright uplift tube with the sponge inline and a heavy weight at the base to allow it to stand on the tank floor. My preferred style of sponge filter is those filters where a single uplift runs one or two sponges (the latter is preferable) either perpendicular to the uplift tube, or parallel (connected via a "U" piece). Such systems are normally attached to the wall of the tank via suction cups. The two-sponge models are, in my opinion, particularly useful as one sponge (alternating sponges every month) can be cleaned harshly (under running water) without causing problems with the biological filtration.

Sponge filters also have an advantage over corner style filtration as, if used in tanks with small fish or fry, the occupants can feed directly off the filter. This is particularly useful when finely powdered foods are being served.

Mechanically, the sponge fitler is probably inferior to the corner filter, that has a greater capacity to trap coarse particulate waste. Like corner filters, sponge filters can be used in any sized aquarium, however, multiple sponge filters (or sponge filters driven by powerheads) may be required in larger aquaria.

The sponge used to make sponge filters is difficult to source in Australia - and commonly bought sponge for DIY versions tends to be of a fine grain and less useful. Assuming the correct type of sponge (coarse grained) can be obtained sponge filters can be easily manufactured from a simple PVC uplift (use electrical conduit), attached to an "L" elbow joint to which a further piece of PVC (with holes drilled in, and one end blocked) is attached. In order to drill the right sized hole in the sponge to insert the PVC emerse the sponge in a container with enough water to completely cover it. Freeze it and use a hole cutter to cut through the sponge and ice simultaneously. Caution is advised when using the drill around water (albeit frozen).

Corner Filters

In most of my tanks (most are 80 litre, 2' tanks) I have a single corner filter. I dont have undergravel filters in any of the tanks – nor do I use additional filtration in these tanks such as canister or HOB filters. I don't have any unexplained fish deaths, in my sporadic checks for ammonia and nitrite and am yet to find any.

I have been setting up my corner filters in much the same way for some time. I half fill them with a coarse filter material. This is usually gravel, very coarse shell grit or the ceramic noodles often available for filling canister filters. Below this, ie: closer to the bottom of the filter, I put a layer (3-5cm) of filter wool. The order of these materials is probably unimportant, though if you set the filter up the other way around you need to change your filter wool more frequently. In a world that sells "bioballs" this filter doesn't seem to have enough biological filtration. But it works – and as such, must have. Moreover, all my tanks are high pH (8.0ish), any ammonia in these tanks is far more toxic than at lower pH's so I've a lot of confidence in the system.

So if they are so good – why doesn't everyone use them? I think this is a matter of aesthetics – these arent the most beautiful of filters – they sit in the corner (or in my case, the middle of my tank, I'm proud of my erronously named "corner" filters) and do their work. Additionally, in larger aquariums, single corner filters arent sufficient, to get them to work you need more than one. While I do like the humble corner filter I don't like the idea of having six in a larger aquarium, I'm keeping fish, not filters, after all. In such tanks, sumps (or above tank trickle filters) or a variety of other filters are superior.

If you have a small tank or a few small tanks and you want an efficient, inexpensive (mine cost me ~$3.95 ea!!) filter then these are the filters for you!



The correct use of activated carbon (charcoal) in aquariums and their filters
by Andrea Watts

What is Activated Carbon?

In its original form, charcoal is very light due mainly to its porosity. It contains phosphorous, sulphur and heavy metals - all of which are highly undesirable in an aquarium. It is sourced from the combustion of wood, lignite, bituminous coal, peat, or coconut shells. The activation process involves either thermal (carbonization and gasification) or chemical (with zinc chloride or phosphoric acid) reactions. These processes eliminate all impurities (elements other than carbon), and increases the overall porosity.

Activated carbon is marketed for aquarium use and is available in powder and granules. It can either be purchased in convenient sachets (which are simply placed into the filter), or as loose matter used to fill a specialized compartment. It is very important that the carbon is thoroughly rinsed to remove the dust or residue that is produced during its manufacture.

Why use Activated Carbon?

Adsorption is the basic principle of filtration i.e. the removal of impurities. This occurs when the undesirable molecules are trapped in the pores and outer surface of the carbon. The filter's performance is linked to the available surface area, and therefore to the porous nature of the material contained in the filter.

There are conflicting theories arising from the use of activated charcoal in an aquarium. Firstly, some people believe that it should be used permanently. The second school of thought promotes the occasional use of carbon. Personally, I believe that generally it is unnecessary to use filtration over activated carbon continuously. It is best used in response to particular requirements, such as the elimination of toxins, medicinal residue, or pigments such as tannin (given off by wood or peat).

Filtration over activated carbon can prove useful in the long term to treat water containing high concentrations of undesirable substances like chlorine, chloramines, alum, phenols and insecticides and pesticides. Reverse osmosis systems are usefully coupled with activated carbon pre-filters. Used in conjunction, they eliminate chlorinated by-products than can damage the membrane. However, they are not very effective in the removal of nitrogenous by-products. Only the rigorous upkeep of biological filters and efficient biological filtration can help eliminate ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

The Negative Impact of Activated Carbon Activated carbon can be criticized for its inability to differentiate between "good" and "bad" molecules. It also fails to retain important trace minerals, including those needed by many hard water fish species and many plants. In reality, the adsorption power of activated carbon is dependent upon the different parameters (e.g. pH of the water) or the chemical form under which the element in question is found. The power of adsorption is limited and it losses its fixation capacity after several days, once it has become saturated. Even worse, it may then release the molecules it had previously extracted back into the water. Therefore, it must be replaced frequently; frequency being dependent on the saturation or concentration level of undesirable elements in the aquarium.

Peacocks
by Preston Knight

This is an attempt to organise the absolute mess which Aulonocara has found itself in, in this state (WA) and perhaps other states. The misnaming, mismanagement and cross breeding of Aulonocara spp. both domestic and commercial, has led to this problem.

The following is a brief explanation of three species of Aulonocara;
Aulonocara baenschi (Benga), Aulonocara maleri (Gold) and Aulonocara maleri (Chipoka). This will help me get to the point of this and future articles.

Aulonocara spp. are endemic to Lake Malawi. Their natural habitat consists of rocky outcrops, caves, reefs & scattered rocks on a sandy bottom. Food is collected in the characteristic way of all Aulonocara spp. It consists of small invertebrates that live in the sand. The prey is located with the aid of the enlarged cephalic pores on the head of the fish. Hovering just a few millimeters above the sub stratum, without moving a fin, it waits until a tiny movement of a hidden invertebrate is registered by its sensitive acoustic organ, a sudden bite in the sand secures the prey.
All Aulonocara spp. females are mouth brooders, which brings me to the point of this & forth coming articles on this genus.

This is not a total description of each species mentioned, but an explanation of the difference between each species.

Aulonocara baenschi (Benga)
(New Yellow Regal)
A. baenschi is known only from a large reef about 5 km off the coast north of Benga and opposite the Nkhomo River. Attaining a total length of approximately 9cm in the wild, the difference between A. baenschi (Benga) and A. maleri (Gold) is that the head of the A. benga is curved whilst that of A. maleri (Gold) is straight. Both have yellow body and blue head.

Aulonocara sp. maleri (Gold)
(Yellow Peacock)
This species has previously been incorrectly included as A baenschi. A. maleri (Gold), the yellow peacock inhabits three islands: Nankoma, Maleri and Nakantenga Islands. Only the population at Maleri Island has been exploited for export. Aulonocara maleri (Chipoka),
the orange peacock, is the most frequently exported peacock and is found at Chidunga Rocks near Chipoka.

A. maleri (Chipoka) has the same head shape as A. maleri (Gold), but the body is orange not yellow, with a slight blue hue to the body. It is my belief that because of this minor difference that the two species have been mixed together. So when purchasing Aulonocara spp. from a shop or from a breeder please check the species history. If a satisfactory history can’t be given, get a second opinion or just don’t purchase them. Remember people can’t sell mongrels if there is no demand for them.

I hope this brief explanation about these three species will help.

Whilst researching this article I came across an article by John Farrell Kuhns. The following is a portion of that article which I found extremely relevant. For that full article see www.http//PetsForum.com/aquascience/Peacocks.html

Here then, are some criteria for checking whether peacocks being offered for sale are, in fact, legitimate species and worthy of consideration:

(1) Avoid all known or suspected hybrids without exception.
(2) Avoid all peacocks which are exhibiting adult colouration at a juvenile size. These specimens have been artificially coloured, usually with hormones, and most likely will not ever breed successfully.
(3) The breeder, or dealer, demonstrates a level of understanding of why hybrids and / or artificially colour-enhanced peacocks are not desirable for the hobby.
(4) The breeder or dealer keeps the different species and varieties in separate tanks so that there is no chance of accidental hybridizing or of acquiring potential breeders which are not the same kind. (Remember, as juveniles most peacocks closely resemble each other, and even as adults the females of different species are very difficult to tell apart).
(5) The peacock being offered can be referenced to a published
photograph or description (other than a price list).
(6) The name applied to the peacock being offered is one of the standard names (as outlined above) or, if not, can be referenced to one of those names.
(7) The breeder or dealer can provide information on the bona fides of the species being offered. While it may not be in the interest of a dealer to reveal sources of supply to customers, there can be some limited information given as to the background and origin
of the peacocks being offered.

Dealers and hobbyists should freely share information among themselves, about breeders and dealers who are not ethical and/or will not, or cannot, provide the information needed to determine the desirability of the fishes they are selling.

My Little Rift Lake
by Darren Leagas

I have watched with interest over the last couple of summers how well cichlids do in out door ponds. Some of our members have ponds full of cichlids, the colors they develop and the amount of growth over summer inspired me to put in my own Little Rift Lake.

Size and Construction
First, I dug a hole 5.5 metres long and 2 metres wide at the top, tapering down to 1.4 metres at the bottom with a depth of 80cm. I lined the hole with carpet underlay, then with PVC liner which is 500 microns thick. A rock border holds the overlay in place. Sheets of rigid plastic were laid on the bottom of the pond, before a front end loader bucket full of limestone rocks were used in the construction of a reef. A few terracotta pots were also used. The plants used are Bacopa sp., Ludwegia sp. and Vallisnera sp. A lot of blanket weed (alga) was also added to the
pond.

Filtration
For this approximately 6500 litre pond, I added a CP8000 Clearpond pump with a flow rate of 8300 litres an hour, 32mm flexible hose and two biological series 2 Clearpond filter boxes. These boxes consist of Japanese matting, aquatic foams and plastic pipe pieces. Secondly, a non descript pump delivering around 5000 litres an hour is used. A ninety litre storage box filled with all the offcuts of filter materials I could find, is used as a prefilter for this pump. The water is then diverted via a tee piece with roughly 2500 liters being pumped through a 3 foot 6 inch round pond. This pond is being used as a plant filter. The other 2500 liters being used for circulation/aeration. A pond of this nature cost approx. $280.00 for the liner, $425.00 for the CP8000 and $300.00 each for the filters.

Temperature
At the end of October when the water averages around 20 degrees Celcius at 8am, I introduced the first lot of fish into my pond. The remaining fish were added over the next few weeks. At the peak of summer, the temperature in the pond will rise up to the early thirties. I have two 3 metre wide market umbrellas on the edge of the pond to throw
some shade onto it. As it's quite hot in the direct sunlight, most days the fish will follow the shade.

Feeding
I feed roughly 75-80% of what I use indoors due to algae in the pond and the unfortunate bugs that happen by the pond.

The Fish and their Habits
I have 23 different species in my pond: 16 being from Malawi, 3 from Tanganyika, 1 from Victoria, some brazilliensis, Brisltenose catfish and an Australian Archer fish. I have two 150 watt floodlights over the pond so I can observe them at night The fish breed quite readily in there, but it is the size and intense coloring that the fish get that inspires me to put them outdoors. The fish seem more relaxed and less aggressive which I believe to be because of the extra space. It adds a whole new dimension to the hobby for me and I believe it is well the effort.

Best fishes Darren

This guide is intended to help you when introducing new fish into your aquarium. I have broken it down into a few, easy to understand, steps that will hopefully provide a solid basis upon which you can build. By cross referencing other articles that will appear in this forum, most questions should be covered.

Testing the Water
Why should I test the water? Quite simply put, fish from different regions have different water chemistry requirements. For example, the waters of South America are soft and acidic, whereas those in the Rift Lake area of Africa are higher in pH and hardness (refer to the other articles on this forum for a more in depth explanation of these factors).

Others parameters will also need checking before introducing new fish into your tank. Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate also need careful assesssment. More information on the Nitrogen Cycle can be found in the article of the same name.

There are also a series of "non-chemical" tests that you should perform. These include checking the temperature; the majority of tropical fish and plants require temperatures in the region of 25C. Using your nose will help detect unhealthy odours, such as ammonia and sulphur (rotten egg gas). A healthy aquarium should smell slightly "earthy". The clarity of the tank can be assessed by looking through the water. It should not show any suspended particles. Colour may vary according to the biotope that you are trying to create eg. the water should be clear unless there are tannin additives used (refer to the article entitled "Wood in the Aquaria").

Choosing the Right Fish
Prior to arrival at the LFS (local fish store), fish are subjected to a great deal of stress (by way of handling and long travelling times in restricted space). In addition, every time a net is pushed around the tank, the fish fish become terrified and subsequently stressed. They lose colour and making the correct choice can be compromised. It is best to avoid buying fish during the times that the LFS is busy ie. on the weekends.

Successive stresses weaken fish and make them less resistant to disease. Aquarists need to be vigilant and understand how to limit the risk of purchasing unhealthy fish. There are two main criteria to consider when making your choice.

Fistly, consider the behaviour of the fish. They should be lively, have a steady swimming action with all their fins extended. Naturally fish that are motionless, gasping at the surface, cowering behind decor, trembling etc. must be avoided. Don't "feel sorry" for a fish and purchase it as an act of kindness. Any fish that show abnormal behaviour will be stressed and probably have an illness. If possible, ask the sales person to drop a little food into the tank and observe that your chosen individual is eating.

You also need to consider appearance. A healthy fish will have vibrant colouration and be free of marks or skin blemishes. Often spots or sores have formed during the handling process, either via the net or through disease. Avoid them! The eye should be proportional to the body size and look clear. Fish with abnormally large eyes or show opaqueness of the lens should be overlooked. The shape of the body is equally important. Curvature of the back, misshapen head, unnaturally shortened body etc. are all indicative of poor breeding. If you are unsure of what your fish of choice should look like, do a search on Google or ask reputable breeders on the forum.

The health of the fish is quite often linked to the cleanliness of the shop. It should not have an unpleasant smell and dead fish amongst those on sale impacts negatively. The tanks should appear clean and clear labelling is often also an indicator of "good housekeeping". A reputable LFS should also be able to correct advise you on the compatibilty of your purchases. It will be helpful to the sales person if you are able to provide a list of the fish that already reside in your home aquarium.

If the fish are likely to be in bags for more than 2 hours, ask the assistant to add oxgen to the bag. This is especially critical during the warmer months of summer. A polystyrene box or drinks esky are also a great idea when transporting fish. These help to keep the temperature more stable during transportation.

The behaviour and overall general appearance of the fish are good indications of its health. It is better to purchase healthy fish than risk introducing disease into your aquarium.

Acclimatising Your Fish
The water in the bucket or bag from an LFS (or fellow hobbyist) undergoes a fluctuation of tempertaures whilst en route to your home. This, in turn, impacts on the fish in the water. It will handle this reasonably well if the changes are gradual. Thermal shock will usually lead to the fish developing contagious mycoses. This is avoided by floating the bag for at least 15 minutes in the top of your aquarium upon arrival home. This will equalise the temperatures between the two environments.

Osmotic shock and pH shock further stress the fish. The water at the LFS may be vastly different than yours (although a reputable retailer should be keeping fish in their appropriate water conditions) and many fish are sensitive to these sudden variations in characteristics. It is important that you acclimatise your new fish very gradually. This involves slowly adding some of your water to the bag of water from the LFS. After the bag has floated for about 15 minutes, open it up and roll down the sides. Add about a cup of water from your tank into the bag, repeating this process 3 or 4 times over the space of around 30 minutes (the slower/longer time intervals the better). Then gently release the fish into your aquarium.

Quarantine
Sometimes it is not immediately apparent whether your fish is carrying disease or parasites. The best solution is to quarantine all of your new purchases before adding them to your community tank. A tank with a capacity of 20 to 50 litres should suffice. It needs to be fitted with an internal filter and a 50W heater. Lighting is not essential, although it may help you to observe the fish a little better. Remember though, that some medications are destroyed by light, so it should only be turned on for a few minutes during the observation period. Pratical considerations take precedence over aesthetics. Substrate is generally not recommended. The water parameters should exactly match those of the main tank for which the fish is intended. The tank must be kept extremely clean so regular vacuuming of excreta and excess food is important. Some decor (maybe some java fern or PVC pipe) should be added to give the fish a sense of security. Ramshorn snails are helpful in eliminating fish wastes, although they can be sensitive to some medications.

Introduce the fish into the quarantine tank via the method explained above. It is recommended that you have a few treatments on hand so that there is minimal delay in taking any appropriate action. Observe them carefully during this time and only when all potential risk has been averted should the new arrival be allowed to join the community tank (approximately 2-4 weeks; coldwater tanks need longer as the life cycle of many diseases takes longer in lower temperatures).

If the addition of medication becomes necessary, an exact diagnosis is essential. Most infectious agents can be transferred amongst aquariums via nets, decor and hands. Therefore accessories and equipment used on the quarantine tank must never be used on other tanks. It makes sense to tend to the needs of the quarantine tank last, so that nothing on your hands is added to the healthy tanks. An article about Fish Disease: Treatment and Diagnosis will be added shortly to this forum.

Andrea Watts

Aquarium Sands
by hlokk

Here is some more information about converting your aquarium to sand. The following is my experiences and tips after following the information in the articles linked.

Note: As I only have knowledge of African rift lake cichlids and fish, specific notes will refer to those fish. Some sands are not suitable to a soft water environment due to their buffering effect.

When it comes to aquarium substrates, there are two choices: gravel or sand. Gravel can be easier to clean (especially if it is not very large pebbles) and it conceals dirt/fish waste. Sand can be slightly harder to clean and will show some dirt/fish waste. So why choose sand? Some fish in the wild rely on sand, so choosing a natural sand can mean observing the fishes natural behaviour. These fish include the shelldwellers and featherfins of Lake Tanganyika as well as some of the haps of Lake Malawi (Placidochromis spp., F. rostratus, Nimbochromis spp., etc). Other species, like Malawi mbuna and Tropheus spp., will likely dig around as well (someone who knows about other species let me know and I'll add them)

Keep in mind when choosing aquarium substrates that the sand will look
different when it is dry and when it is wet, as well as look different under sunlight and aquarium lights.

Aquarium shop sands- $2.50-$7/kg
Amount of washing required: Low - very low(?)
Availability: Some fish shops (or online ones like deepblueaquaria.com or aquaria.com.au). Usually available in 10-20kg bags

I have not had any experiences with these, but I would expect them to be free from large amounts of dust or harmful chemicals (you should probably still wash them first though). If you have really expensive fish then these would be your most sensible choice.

The sands are available in a range of types : aragonite, various caribsea ones (aragamax sugar sized, marine sand, tahitian moon sand) and active ones. The aragamax is supposed to have rounded grains (suitable for sandsifters) and the tahitian moon sand is the only source of black sand I know of. However, the downside is these sands are very expensive.

Beach sand- N/A
Amount of washing required: Low
Availability: Public beach (illegal and a $500 fine), otherwise ?

I had a small sample of this that I washed and placed in the aquarium. Grain size can vary, but is usually relatively coarse with interesting colour variation (due to some parts being silica and other parts being shells). Colour tends to be a brownish, beige colour that does not shine brightly in the aquarium. Sand is also likely to contain less dust and hence would only need to be washed lightly to remove chemicals and/or salt.

*NOTE: It is illegal to remove beach sand from a public beach. If you are going to use beach sand, please obtain in from a private source and not a public beach. It may be possible that there is a legal supplier of beach sand somewhere in Perth.

Washed white sand- 20c/kg or less
Amount of washing required: Low-medium
Availability: Soil retailers and Bunnings (bags). Some soil retailers will have ~30kg bags available (e.g. soilworld in Malaga), otherwise you can bring a bucket or hire a trailer if you are using a heap (usually free trailer hire for 2 hours or less).

The sand is the type often used in sandpits and has a uniform colour, being a bright white. Under aquarium lights this can be very bright! Consistency is very fine, almost like sugar. May be suitable if you want a sparkling white fine substrate.

River sand - 20c/kg or less
Amount of washing required: High
Availability: Soil retailers (See washed white sand)

This sand has varied grain size ranging from small pebble sizes to very fine sand (almost silt like). This sand must be washed a lot due to the amount of silt-sand. It may be possible to wash this sand a small-medium amount and leave a fair amount of fine sand in the aquarium, but care must be taken to avoid clouding the water. I would not recommend to do this unless the fish can be put in the tank after the water has cleared which could be several hours or even days. Care must also be taken with any moving parts such as pump impellors if fine sand can be stirred up. With suitable washing this sand may be useful in a tank where the variation in grain sizes could create a very natural looking substrate.

Pool filter sand- 50c/kg or less
Amount of washing required: Low
Availability: Pool shops or Cook Industrial Minerals (Note: some pool shops have switched to coarse zeolite instead of sand). 25kg bags from pool shop or bulk from CIM.

This sand is mostly silica and has a very uniform grain size of about 1mm. The colour when wet is a grey colour, however, will appear an offwhite colour under aquarium lights. The uniform and relatively coarse grain size means that it is less likely for the sand bed to get compacted over time (though stirring every few months should still be done). The grain size however is still small enough for most fish to sift and move. I am not sure what the grain structure of the sand looks like and hence may be comparitively sharp. Therefore caution is advised when using this sand with fish that sift large amounts of sand through their gills.

*NOTE: The packaging states that silica has been known to be carcinogenic. However, this is only due to inhalation of very fine dust (usually only in high/continuous exposure areas). As long as you keep the sand wet when you are handling it (after pouring it out of the bag of course) and wash it to get the dust out there should be no harm to you or your fish. Note other sands like beach sand also contain large amounts of silica sand but are safe.

Samples
If you can obtain a sample of the sand you intend to use, wash it and fill about a third of a glass jar with the sand. Make sure there is no excess water. Then place the jar into the aquarium and note the look (especially the colour under aquarium lights). Using a small amount like this will accurately gauge how the sand will look. Such a small amount will not disturb the aquarium and is quick to prepare (i.e. dont need to dechlorinate or heat a small sample).

Washing the sand
All sand should be washed even if it is for aquarium purposes (live sand being an exception, but this is for marine fish and does not apply to cichlids).

To wash the sand, place an amount of sand into a bucket. I use a 20L bucket that looks like it is designed to hold paint (does not bow when filled with water or sand). How much sand you add is up to you. Nearly filling the bucket will be easier to pour the excess water, but a smaller amount of sand at a time will mean a more thorough clean.

Stir the sand up in the bucket using a hose with your thumb over it or a jet nozzle. Pour the cloudy sand off and repeat until the water is clear. If using a larger amount of sand check if the jet reaches the bottom. Make sure to churn the sand every now and then especially if the amount of sand is large. I recommend cleaning small amounts of sand at a time as you do not need to churn it as much. Place the cleaned sand into another clean bucket or container.

See http://www.cichlid-f...eaning_sand.php

Adding the sand to the aquarium
If you have fish in your aquarium already, make sure the sand is at the same temperature. If the sand is fairly deep, it is likely that the sand at the bottom will be fairly cold, so you will have to churn the sand and monitor the temperature.

If you are setting up a new aquarium, first place some 'eggcrate' in the bottom. 'Eggcrate' is the common name for the grating you often see covering flourescent lights. Any fish safe grating should work however (I have used plastic drainage covers from Bunnings). This step is optional but will prevent rocks pressing against the glass. Adding this after the sand may result in trapped grains pressing against the glass which could result in aquarium failure. Place a layer of sand evenly in the aquarium at the same level as the 'eggcrate' then add some base level rocks. Placing the rocks in now prevents fish from digging under the rocks bases possibly causing rocks to topple. After the 'base rocks' are in, add the rest of the sand (4-10cm depending on tank size). Then fill the tank with water. Wait for any sand to settle before turning on filters. Then wait for water to be completely clear before adding fish. A small sponge over the filter intake will prevent sand from destroying any pump impellors or other equiptment.

If fish are allready in your tank you can either move them or leave them in the tank but remove the gravel and rocks. Removing the gravel can create very cloudy water so I would suggest removing the fish if possible. Make sure to save some of the gravel if you dont have a sump or filter with a large amount of media (e.g. cannister filter). This is to ensure the nitrifying bacteria still remain in the tank. Place the gravel in some kind of porous bag near some water flow (pantyhose should work well). I didnt bother to keep some gravel as I am using a cannister filter with a fair amount of media.

Cleaning the sand
To clean the sand either carefully siphon off the top water layer using some tubing or use a gravel cleaner. The gravel cleaners are great as they do not suck up coarse sand. Every few months or so, thoroughly stir up the sand to remove any pockets that may trap gases (which may be poisonous to fish if not stirred up). Coarse sand is less likely to trap gases, but should still be stirred every now and then.

And lastly, a picture of the pool filter sand I decided to use in my aquarium.



If you want to figure out how much sand to use:

Sand Depth: D = (625*mass)/(L*W)

Mass of sand to use: mass = 0.0016*L*W*D

Volume of sand V = mass/1.6 (in liters)

mass in kg
lengths (L,W,D) are in cm
I'm assuming the density of sand is 1600kg/m^3


If you remember your tank dimensions, use 97 instead of 625 (use 38 if you want the result in inches).
E.g. a 25kg bag with a 48x18x18" tank, depth=97*25/(48*18 ) = 2.8cm

So for a 48x18 tank you would want 3 bags of sand to get a 8cm deep sandbed.

I have written this information because it specifically refers to sands commonly available in Australia. For more information, see

http://www.cichlid-f...ticles/sand.php

What I have written is specifically my observations and experiences.

Article submitted by hlokk.

Choosing Suitable Plants
by Andrea Watts

Growing plants successfully in an aquarium is reliant on many factors. This article will address the question as to the suitability of certain plants to an aquatic environment.

When you visit your local aquarium shop, you will find a number of plants sold as aquarium plants. In many cases, not all of the plants on display are suitable for long term submersion in your tank. I will endeavor to guide you through some of the more commonly sold species and classify them into aquatic, marginal and terrestrial plant groups.

True Aquatic Plants
This generally refers to plants which grow and thrive when permanently submersed. I find that a good rule of thumb is this.... anything that cannot support its weight out of the water is a true aquatic plant . These true aquatic plants are termed as “submerged”. However, some of these plants can also be classed as “amphibious” ie. they are capable of living both in and out of the water (in this case, the emergent form will be self supporting).

Scientific Name	Common Name	Category
Alternanthera reineckii v. "Cardinalis"	Red alternanthera	amphibious
Alternanthera reineckii v. "Rosaefolia"	Purple alternanthera	amphibious
Alternanthera reineckii v. "Lilacina"	Pink alternanthera	amphibious
Anubias afzeilii		amphibious
Anubias barteri		amphibious
Anubias barteri v. "Nana"	Nana	amphibious
Anubias sp. "Congensis"	Congensis	amphibious
Anubias x. "Emerald Heart"	Emerald Heart	amphibious
Anubias gigantean	Gigantea	amphibious
Anubias lanceolata		amphibious
Aponogeton crispus	Crispus	submerged
Aponogeton madagascariensis	Madagascar Lace Plant	submerged
Aponogeton natans		submerged
Aponogeton rigidifolius		amphibious
Aponogeton undulatus		submerged
Bacopa caroliniana	Bacopa	amphibious
Bacopa monnieri	Baby's Tears	amphibious
Blyxa sp.	Blyxa	submerged
Bolbitis heudelotii	Bolbitis	amphibious
Cardamine lyrata	Cardamine	amphibious
Ceratophyllum demersum	Hornwort	submerged
Ceratopteris siliquosa	Water Sprite	amphibious
Crassula helmsii	Crassula	amphibious
Cryptocoryne affinis		amphibious
Cryptocoryne becketti		amphibious
Cryptocoryne costata		amphibious
Cryptocoryne crispatula v. "Balansae Green"	Balansae	amphibious
Cryptocoryne lingua		amphibious
Cryptocoryne lucens		amphibious
Cryptocoryne meyi		amphibious
Cryptocoryne nevilli		amphibious
Cryptocoryne parva	Parva	amphibious
Cryptocoryne pontederifolia		amphibious
Cryptocoryne purpurea		amphibious
Cryptocoryne thwaitesii		amphibious
Cryptocoryne undulate		amphibious
Cryptocoryne walkeri		amphibious
Cryptocoryne wendtii v. "Brown"	Brown wendtii	amphibious
Cryptocoryne wendtii v. "Green"	Green wendtii	amphibious
Echinodorus amazonicus	Amazon Sword	amphibious
Echinodorus augustifolia	Chain Sword	amphibious
Echinodorus barthii	Melon Sword	amphibious
Echinodorus bleheri	Ruffle Sword	amphibious
Echinodorus bleheri	Ruffle Sword	amphibious
Echinodorus cordifolius	Radican Sword	amphibious
Echinodorus cordifolius v. "Marble"	Variegated Sword	amphibious
Echinodorus grisebachii		amphibious
Echinodorus horizontalis		amphibious
Echinodorus kleinerber		amphibious
Echinodorus latifolious		amphibious
Echinodorus v. "Oriental"	Oriental Sword	amphibious
Echinodorus x. "Ozelot"	Ozelot Sword	amphibious
Echinodorus parviflorus	Parviflorus Sword	amphibious
Echinodorus x. "Rose"	Rose Sword	amphibious
Echinodorus x. "Rubin"	Red Rubin Sword	amphibious
Echinodorus schlueteri v. "Leopard"	Leopard Sword	amphibious
Echinodorus tenellus	Chain Sword	amphibious
Echinodorus tropica	Tropica Sword	amphibious
Echinodorus uruguayensis v. "Green"	Green Hormanii	amphibious
Echinodorus uruguayensis v. "Red"	Red Hormanii	amphibious
Eleocharis acicularis	Dwarf Hairgrass	amphibious
Eleocharis montevidensis	Giant Hairgrass	amphibious
Eleochais vivipara	Hairgrass	amphibious
Eusteralis stellata	Stellata	amphibious
Fontinalis antipyretica	Willow Moss	submerged
Glossostima elatinoides	Glosso	amphibious
Heteranthera sp.		submerged
Hydrocotyle sp.	Hydrocotyle	amphibious
Hydrocotyle verticillata	Pennywort	amphibious
Hygrophila sp.	Willow Leaf	amphibious
Hygrophila corymbosa x. "Stricta"	Temple	amphibious
Hygrophila corymbosa v. "Siamensis"	Giant Hygro	amphibious
Hygrophila difformis	Wisteria	amphibious
Hygrophila polysperma	Hygro	amphibious
Hygrophila polysperma v. "Variegated"	Variegated Hygro	amphibious
Hygrophila sp. "Rubra"	Rubra	amphibious
Lagenandra thawaitesii		amphibious
Lemna minor	Duckweed	submerged
Lilaeopsis brasiliensis	Lilaeopsis	amphibious
Limnophila sp.	Limnophila	amphibious
Lobelia cardinalis	Lobelia	amphibious
Ludwigia arcuata	Arcuata	amphibious
Ludwigia natans	Ludwigia	amphibious
Ludwigia repens x. "Palustris"	Ludwigia	amphibious
Lymnophila sessiflora	Ambulia	amphibious
Lysimachia nummularia	Pennywort/Moneywort	amphibious
Lysimachia nummularia v. "Aurea"	Gold Pennywort/Moneywort	amphibious
Micranthemum umbrossum	Jewel Plant	amphibious
Microsorium pteropus	Java Fern	amphibious
Microsorium pteropus v. "Windelov"	Windelov	amphibious
Myriophyllum simulans	Filligree Myriophyllum	amphibious
Nomophila stricta	Stricta	amphibious
Nuphor japonica	Spatterdock	amphibious
Nymphaea lotus v. "Red"	Red Tiger Lotus	amphibious
Nymphoides aquatica	Banana Plant	amphibious
Potamogeton sp.	Potamogeton	submerged
Riccia fluitans	Riccia	amphibious
Rotala rotundifolia	Rotundifolia	amphibious
Rotala wallichi	Wallichi	amphibious
Sagittaria subulata	Narrow Leaf Sagittaria	amphibious
Vallisnera asiatica	Narrow Leaf Vallis	submersed
Vallisnera torta	Corkscrew Vallis	submersed

Marginal and Terrestrial Plants
The following are terrestrial or marginal plants which are commonly sold at LFS as aquatics...they are ok for short term display only.

Scientific Name	Common Name
Acorus gramineus	Jap Rush
Acorus gramineus v. "Variegated"	Variegated Jap Rush
Aglaonema sp.	Zebra Plant
Alteranthera v. "Tri Colour"	Yellow Ivy
Calathea sp.	Peacock Plant
Chamaedorea elegans	Baby Palm
Cordyllne terminallis	Pink Baby Doll
Dracaena sp.	Happy Plant
Hemigraphis exotica	Purple Waffle
Hemigraphis repanda	Panama Crypt
Houttuynia cordata	Lizard's Tail
Liriope muscani v. "Variegated"	Liriope
Ophipogon japonica	Mondo Grass
Peperomia sp.	Aluminium Plant
Pteris spp.	Water Fern
Spathiphyllum tasson	Spath Lily
Syngonium podophyllum v. "White Butterfly"	White Butterfly
Syngonium podophyllum v. "Regina Red"	Red Butterfly
Viola esclenta	Water Violet

Hopefully these lists will help you to identify and determine whether the plants that you have chosen are, in fact, suitable for long term submersion in the aquarium.

The use of rocks in aquaria
by Andrea Watts

Why rocks, aint just rocks!

This article serves to provide a brief introduction to rocks and their properties, and hopefully guide you in your choice of decor for various biotope simulations.

Rock Types

To make a decision about rock selection for aquarium use, it is beneficial to understand the properties of each rock group. The following is a skeletal lesson in geology that will (hopefully) help you understand why some rocks are less suitable for the use in home aquariums than others. Only the characteristics that affect freshwater environments will be discussed.

Rocks are grouped into 3 major types: igneous, sedimentary and metamorphic. Each of these types consists of subgroups. We will start with igneous rocks.

Igneous Rocks

These rocks are formed from molten material (magma): those which contain high amounts of quartz (SiO2) are termed "acidic"; those without quartz are termed "basic". Rocks with small amounts of quartz are called "intermediate". Common types of acidic rocks include granite (fig 8 ), rhyolite, pegmatite and obsidian. Intermediate rocks include syenite, diorite, andesite and trachyte. Those that are termed as basic include gabbro, dolerite and basalt.

Generally speaking, these rocks are suitable for use in the aquarium. However they form sharp edges along broken faces, so care should be taken to smooth off any dangerous projections. Obsidian is glass-like and should be treated with extreme care. Basically, igneous rocks are non-porous, however many contain some minerals that are chemically altered to clay after a period of weathering. With the exception of obsidian, some are then capable of "sponging" up chemicals/toxins from their environment and releasing them slowly into the aquarium. Water worn and polished specimens possess little to no absorption properties, and often appear more realistic in an aquatic environment.

Basic rocks often contain higher amounts of iron-based minerals; however their release is too slow to cause a significant shift in the water chemistry. Igneous rocks do not help buffer water, are generally inert and are non-contributors to providing ideal water chemistry for alkaline dwelling cichlids. They provide decorative properties only.

Sedimentary Rocks

Most rocks chosen by aquarists fall into this category. The main feature that brings this great variety of rocks together is that they are deposited in layers or beds that originally are reasonably flat and well organised. Those that are formed from detrital sediments include sandstone, conglomerate, breccia and shale. Sandstones can vary greatly in their chemical composition.

This is due to the fact that the sand is cemented together by various minerals which have been formed in the pore spaces in the rock. The most common "cements" are calcite, iron or quartz. Sandstones, on the whole, are inert in water, although the cement type will dictate their strength and mineral composition (fig. 1).

The most important factor to consider when utilising these rocks is their porosity and often fragile nature. Sandstones bonded with iron will remain stronger over time than those containing calcite: the latter tending to crumble after a period of submersion.

The high porosity of sandstones leads to the containment and release of toxins/chemicals acquired from an aquatic environment. You need to be sure of their source. Conglomerates and breccias are rocks that are formed by"clusters" of larger sized particles (fig. 2). They are cemented in a similar fashion to sandstones.

Shales and mudstones are generally not suitable for aquarium use. They are clay based and often fall apart after a period of submersion.

Limestones are the most commonly used rock group in home aquariums. There are a number of types of limestone, and their properties correspond with the origin of formation (fig. 3.). Some are produced by or from organic material (shells, coral or algae), others originate from chemical activity (oolite and dolomite) and the rest are formed from fragments of calcareous material (clastic). Although limestones can be deposited in freshwater, the vast majorities are marine deposits. They are commonly formed in a reasonably clear sea, largely free of mud and sand.

These rocks are usually pale coloured, being grey or even white, the colourthough will depend on the amount of detrital material present. They may be brownish when iron minerals are present and almost black if they contain high levels of mud and organic carbon. The percentage of calcium carbonate present differs between types (chalks containing up to 90%) whereas dolomites contain over 15% magnesium carbonates.

Limestones are useful for use in hard-water, alkaline biotope simulations such as Malawi and Tanganyikan. They possess good buffering properties, are relatively easy to come by and provide aesthetically pleasing displays with a little imagination. Limestone will often break and form quite sharp fractures. Make sure that you do not leave hazardous projections that may injure your fish.

Evaporatives and ironstones include salt, gypsum, potash ore marl and ironstones.

Only the ironstones are suitable for aquarium use. As suggested, they often contain the following iron-rich minerals: chamosite, limonite, siderite, hematite and magnetite, and are commonly added to planted aquariums to help supplement iron levels. Iron content should be regularly monitored if ironstone is included in your aquarium (fig. 4, fig. 5 and fig. 6).


Metamorphic Rocks

Generally speaking, these rocks are formed from the alteration of igneous and sedimentary rocks through heat and pressure. Examples include hornfels, metaquartzite, marble, slate, phyllite, schist and gneiss. All of these rocks are suitable for use in the aquarium. However, as has already been discussed, their origin will determine the chemical properties that they individually possess.

Of these, marble is the most commonly used metamorphic rock. This rock develops when limestones are intruded by magma, or overrun with lavas. The heat from the molten igneous rock brings about profound changes in the original limestone. Marbles are generally pale coloured rocks of medium to course grain size. The main mineral in marble is calcite; the other metamorphic minerals develop from impurities in the original rock. Due to the thermal alteration of the original limestone, marble is very hard and durable. It is commonly used as a substrate in hard-water Africa aquariums, or as a filter media. It has an excellent buffering capability, and provides a more environmentally friendly alternative to coral products.

General themes

Water becomes hard by dissolving soluble salts from the rocks or soil over or through which it flows. Some rocks, for example, slate, granite and gneiss, contain little or no soluble material and have a negligible effect. Others, most notably limestone, are quite the opposite. Hence rocks may affect water chemistry: corals and shells are largely calcium carbonate and some gravels often contain fragments of these substances. Hardness free rocks are a pre-requisite of the soft-water aquarium.

A point not often realised is that some rock surfaces are too rough for use as a spawning substrate by many species. Rocks that would be suitable include granite, schist, gneiss, slate (fig. 7.) and sandstone.

Rock is sold by weight and can be expensive, so you may be tempted to collect your own - but don't do so unless you are able to identify different types of rocks and spot any contaminants in them. It is an offence (by law and on the environment) to collect rocks from the ocean, river courses, bushland and the like. Heavy penalties are incurred for this sort of action.

All rocks must be thoroughly cleaned and scrubbed to remove soil particles and other foreign bodies. Small pieces can be boiled for 10 minutes, but remember to allow them to cool. The amount of rock to be used will depend on the biotope you are trying to replicate, and may range from scattered stones on the floor of a forest stream, to large and complex rock piles representing areas of rapids or a rocky lake shore.

Stones can be used to support raised terraces of substrate material. Never position large rocks on top of the substrate - always bed them in so that substrate slippage or fish excavations cannot undermine them. Always make sure rocky structures are solidly constructed so that they cannot collapse, crushing fishes or crashing through glass; consider sticking them together with silicone sealant for added security and stability.

Never forget that in choosing and arranging rocks you must always keep the fishes' requirements - water chemistry, shelter, swimming space, spawning sites and so on - in mind, and be prepared to forego any ideas which may please your eye, but cause them physical or psychological discomfort. Your aim should be to provide them with a replica of their natural environment in which they will feel at home. They reward you by looking their best.

Figures

Figure 1: Diversity amongst sandstone is vast. Colour, texture and mineral composition is dependent upon their origin.


Figure 2: Breccias and conglomerates consist of larger rocks and particles cemented together.


Figure 3: Variation amongst limestones. The darker pieces contain organic carbons, lighter pieces are of marine origin and those with pinkish colouration have iron in their composition.


Figure 4: Petrified wood is difficult to source and relatively expensive, but gives a dramatic impact when used effectively


Figure 5: Quartzites are silicate based inert rocks. The above is an example that is commonly sold in LFS as 'moon rock'.


Figure 6: An intricate piece of ironstone that contains a high manganese content. These decorative rocks can be striking if used correctly.


Figure 7: Pieces of slate are often used to create flat spawning sites. They can also be stacked to create a terraced effect.


8: Pieces of granite

Water Hardness
by Andrea Watts

People are often confused by the terms: ‘general hardness’, ‘total hardness’, ‘temporary hardness’, 'permanent hardness’, ‘carbonate hardness’ and ‘total dissolved salts’. The aim of this article is to explain the differences between them and give you a better understanding of water hardness.

Hardness

Hardness is the measure of dissolved mineral salts (mainly chlorides, bicarbonates, carbonates, and sulphates of calcium, sodium, magnesium and potassium); the harder the water the more salts it contains. It is generally expressed in terms of calcium carbonate (CaCO3) content, measured in degrees (ºdH) or parts per million (ppm) using a test kit. Care is needed with regard to “degrees of hardness”, the definition of which varies from country to country and test kit to test kit, depending on origin.

Water becomes hard by dissolving soluble salts from the rocks or soil over or through which it flows. Some rocks, for example slate, granite, gneiss and schist, contain little or no soluble material and, as such, have a negligible effect. Others, however, are quite the opposite. Rocks and other “hard” décor in the aquarium may affect water chemistry: corals and shells are largely calcium carbonate, and some gravel often contains fragments of limestone or shell. Hardness-free décor is a pre-requisite of soft-water aquariums.

ºdgH/kH	ppm gH/kH
1	17.9
2	35.8
3	53.7
4	71.6
5	89.5
6	107.4
7	125.3
8	143.2
9	161.1
10	179
11	196.9
12	214.8
13	232.7
14	240.6
15	268.5
16	286.4

[ NB: to convert ºdgH / ºdkH (German degrees) to ppm, multiply ºdgH x 17.9. To convert to American degrees, multiply by 17.1. The English conversion (Clark) involves multiplying by 14.3 ]

Following is a general guide to fish suitability to water hardness parameters:

gH and kH Range	Suitable Fish
0º - 3º (0 - 50 ppm)	arowanas, elephant nose, killifish, hatchet fish, Amazon/South American fish, including tetras, dwarf cichlids, geophagines, Ancistrus spp.
3º - 6º (50 - 100 ppm)	most tropical fish including Central American cichlids, East African Riverine species, gouramis, sharks, loaches, barbs, rainbows, African tetras
6º - 11º (100 - 200 ppm)	most live bearers including guppies, mollies, swordtails and platies, goldfish, Lake Victorian cichlids
11º - 22º (200 - 400 ppm)	Lake Malawi and Lake Tanganyikan cichlids, brackish fish including scats, monos and puffers

There are many fish that are tolerant to a wide range of water hardness values. Some of these include many plecos, most Central American and East African species, gouramis, sharks, tiger barbs, widow tetras, most Australian rainbowfish, siamese fighting fish and most Corydoras species.

General Hardness

Total, general or permanent hardness is represented throughout literature by the letters gH. It is determined by the concentration of calcium and magnesium salts, i.e. the amount of calcium (Ca++) and magnesium (Mg++) ions, which are dissolved in the water. These minerals are present in town, artesian (bore) and bottled water. The amount of dissolved minerals is dependent upon the source of the water, and the type of treatment processes it has undergone. Total hardness or general hardness is sometimes referred to as total dissolved salts (TDS). Scientists often measure mineral content in terms not or hardness but of electrical conductivity, the units employed being micro-siemens (µS).

Hard water (> 200 ppm) is high in calcium and magnesium, while soft water (50 to 100 ppm) is low in these minerals. Suitable values for most ornamental fish range between 100 and 300 ppm. As an aquarist, you should seek to provide a healthy aquarium environment by duplicating the water conditions of the natural habitats of your fish. In a home aquarium, select fish within the same region so that the gH values are relatively similar.

Carbonate Hardness

Carbonate, bicarbonate or temporary hardness is formed from the compounds of calcium and magnesium with carbonic acid, i.e. it is the measure of carbonate (CO3-) and bicarbonate (HCO3-) ion concentrations dissolved in the water. It is represented by the letters kH. As with calcium and magnesium, these compounds are also found in town, artesian (bore) and bottled water, and as such, their concentration is dependent on the source of the water and the treatment processes it has undergone.

Carbonate hardness helps stabilize the pH value and prevents dangerous drops in the pH value (acid drop or pH crash). It is sometimes referred to as alkalinity. An aquarium with a low kH level (50 ppm or less) will tend to be acidic. Aquariums with these characteristics are subject to rapid shifts in pH, if not monitored carefully. Water with a high kH level (> 200 ppm) usually has a high pH. The biological breakdown processes in an aquarium or pond, and the carbon dioxide consumption by plants, deplete the carbonate hardness resource in the water. Drastic changes in pH values can harm fish.

Temporary Hardness

The term temporary hardness is given in recognition of the fact that bicarbonate hardness can be reduced or eliminated by boiling. This results in the formation of insoluble carbonates which are then deposited as scale or ‘fur’. General or permanent hardness cannot be reduced or eliminated in the same manner.

How to Determine the ºdH

In order to determine the hardness of your tap water, it is possible to consult the local water authority which is legally obliged to provide details of their analysis. However, it is important to realize that these values fluctuate from time to time, especially after rainfall in the region. Local fish stores offer very easy, relatively inexpensive colorimetric tests to gauge the hardness of your tap and aquarium water with reasonable accuracy.

How to Soften Water which is too Hard

The ideal solution is to collect rain water and dilute it with tap water until the desired hardness is obtained. Unfortunately, this method requires various precautions and involves certain risks. The guttering and storage tank must be of non-metallic material. They must be as clean as possible, and cemented roofs must be avoided (essentially cement is powdered limestone). This activity cannot be carried out in regions where the atmosphere is highly polluted because the rain will contain all sorts of unsuitable elements. Water collected close to or downwind of, industrial areas may be polluted. Collect only during prolonged downpours, and wait a few minutes while the dust and any other rubbish is washed away. It is highly advised to filter or strain the collected water through filter wool to remove any detritus.

Boiling water will remove some, but not all, of the dissolved salts.

You can also pass the water through resins, which capture the mineral salts and leave it very soft. This method, which is known as ion exchange, requires a well regulated flow of water and the resins to be changed regularly (use only resins sold for aquarium use). This may affect the pH, and, as it exchanges calcium ions for (usually) sodium ions, the result may be soft but still mineral-rich (and unsuitable for fish from mineral-poor regions).

In recent years a technique called reverse osmosis has been made available to the hobbyist. This involves utilizing a unit to produce water which is chemically pure, hence perfect for aquarium use. This removes all minerals but it is wasteful – some 45.5 litres of tap water are needed to produce 4.5 litres of mineral-free water. It cannot be used alone because when devoid of all its salts, the water becomes very unstable. The pH can then fluctuate widely in a short space of time, becoming dangerous for the fish. Also, the process involved in the removal of minerals, removes free oxygen, so there is nothing to “breathe”. It must be aerated heavily before use, and never used “neat”. However, the greatest drawback of this process lies in its high cost.

Filtering water through peat can effectively reduce the hardness of the aquarium. Products such as sera super peat (sera biopeat granulate in ponds) or the addition of sera morena, which contain natural peat extracts, trace elements and humic acids, can help to lower levels for softer water species. Other sera products such as pH-minus will also help to reduce hardness, in conjunction with water changes.

Finally, it is also possible to use a very soft bottled mineral water, either for dilution or for the small tanks used to breed fish. This water needs to be vigorously aerated because it is void of oxygen.

How to Harden Water which is too Soft

The simplest way to increase the general hardness is to incorporate calcareous material (e.g. limestone, crushed marble, lime sand) into the décor or filter. This will slowly release calcium carbonate into the water. Carbonate hardness can also be raised through the gradual addition of sodium bicarbonate.

Pool salt, non-iodised salt Rift Lake Salt additives (e.g. Seachem products, sera gH - kH plus, sera mineral salt etc.) and some bottled hard mineral water (e.g. Evian) can also be added. Some aquarists even add a small percentage of sea water to the aquarium (around 2%).

Proprietary treatments for raising the level of hardness, in the form of powders (e.g. kH Generator), are also available through the local fish shops.