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Co2 And Ph??? Probes And Solenoids.


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#21 Rovik

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 05:54 PM

QUOTE (kassysimon @ Feb 5 2012, 12:16 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I have built an auto change over system that i can control with my iPhone and is directly plumbed into my drainage system for emptying the tank and also plumbed into my mains pressure for filling, run through a tempering valve so the water is added to the tank at 26°. That coupled with my auto dosing method will also save alot of time as i have designed a system that will add the correct amount of dry ferts and DI water to my reservoirs automatically so all i need to do is top up my dry fert housing and test and prune. CO2 will also be automatic.

This will save me alot of time so i can therefore spend it on the EI and testing.



This sound absolutely amazing, with a system like this in place, EI dosing will be an absolute breeze !

Would it be to hard to ask for some more details regarding the above water changing system, sounds fantastic:

The Iphone app you used (if available).
The plumbing.
Ect...

If you haven't already had a look at his tank: http://www.aquariuml...8-Insanity-Fair

And if your looking for Dry ferts:
You can order online and pick up instore to save $10 shipping laugh.gif

http://www.aquariumo...zers-additives/

Cant wait to see the Finished result, I have high expectations. smile.gif
Good luck.

Rovik.

Edited by Rovik, 06 February 2012 - 05:56 PM.


#22 kassysimon

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Posted 08 February 2012 - 07:39 PM

Thanks Rovik.

I will send you a plan of the complete set-up.

The iPhone App is for the Profilux III Control System. It will inform you of changes and water conditions.
The Profilux will be the brains of the control department. Though it can be done without it, it provides the best real time monitoring capabilities available and making it work for you is what it is all about. The extras i need to automate my system will cost about $300.00 more than the Profilux pack so it is a great investment.

Here is the link to the APP.

http://reefbuilders....iii-iphone-app/

and an additional App for extra remote control.

https://market.andro....myprofilux.app



The plumbing system will be controlled by a Home Automation system called Z Wave. This allows remote connection and control of any motor driven appliance plugged into a wall socket.

http://z-waveaustralia.com/

Easy to retro fit and customize.

Thanks again for all your help.

Simon





#23 kassysimon

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Posted 21 March 2012 - 06:12 PM

Hey Rovik

I have just updated my plans for the auto system.

I added a remote sensor location and moved the level sensor out of the tank to run remotely.



#24 Rovik

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 04:36 PM

Solid: Cant pick any major flaws.
Can you drill the bottom of the tank or is it already set-up ?

#25 kassysimon

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 05:05 PM

Unfortunately already drilled.

I prefer the holes drilled at the bottom too.

Maybe in my next tank.

#26 Neakit

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 06:42 PM

So i had a look at your plumbing, how big are the pumps going to be that inject your ferts into the fx5 line? the issue i can see is they might not be able to overcome the forces that are holding the check valves seated, on the other hand if that line is somehow got a venturi effect it will suck all your ferts straight out. The other thing that concerns me is the returns, you may find one may be returning more than the other cause of all the things on the suction side of the pumps. I personally would prefer to run 2 separate spray bars is possible just so one filter isn't fighting the other.

#27 Rovik

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 07:07 PM

Not a worry, Its still very well designed.
I don't see Taps on the fluvals but I assume your going to use the included ones that come with the filter ?


I would price up the CO2 "reactor"...For around $40-100 you can get an big inline-atomizer or something like a SERA inline-diffuser that should handle your CO2 needs.

Here is an example:

http://www.sera.de/u...ve-reactor.html

If you go to the right places I am sure you can make a custom reactor cheaper, but there is a bit of work involved in getting your CO2 airline, Inline and then possibly using silicone to seal it all in.
Maybe buy a cheap diffuser or even a very fine Airstone and stick it in the pipe (reactor) towards the bottom and above place some course Bioballs on top.
(Not the most informative description, I can draw a diagram if you don't catch my drift)
This may be the cheaper option depending on the brand of your fittings and sourcing. ect...


If your Going the retail route, the SERA Reactor would be the one to go for IMO.
They have a claimed 100% CO2 dissolving rate, which means no micro bubbles through the tank...was well as very CO2 efficient, so no wastage.
The larger model claims to suit around a 1000L (*dont quotes me on this*).
If you are using one of the ProfiLux as you pH controller.... I think it would do just fine on your larger aquarium, if you have your CO2 coming out slowly instead of a quick Blast/flare.
Which is probably better for the fish and plants.
A good option, all round, easy "plug and play" set-up although a tad more expensive.

Rovik.

Ps: Any Progress reports ?


#28 Rovik

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 07:19 PM

I Tend to agree with NeaKit:

I would recommend that you run the the FX5's on separate lines to avoid issues later on.

Also the issues of a venturi "Sucking" all your ferts out is very real.
I am about 70% sure that it will work...but give it a field test first to see if the check valve holds.


#29 kassysimon

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 07:26 PM

QUOTE (Neakit @ Mar 22 2012, 09:42 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
So i had a look at your plumbing, how big are the pumps going to be that inject your ferts into the fx5 line? the issue i can see is they might not be able to overcome the forces that are holding the check valves seated, on the other hand if that line is somehow got a venturi effect it will suck all your ferts straight out. The other thing that concerns me is the returns, you may find one may be returning more than the other cause of all the things on the suction side of the pumps. I personally would prefer to run 2 separate spray bars is possible just so one filter isn't fighting the other.



Hey.

The check valves are adjustable and Ill be using Eheim pumps, 300Lph.

A Venturi effect cant arise as i am using identical pipe sizes therefore no constriction to aid in the reduction of pressure, also the water from the filter will not be rushing past the fertilser inlet but filling it up creating negative pressure on the check valve. The negative pressure on the check valve will be less than the direct positive pressure from the pump so a 300Lph pump should suffice.

#30 kassysimon

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 07:33 PM

QUOTE (Rovik @ Mar 22 2012, 10:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Not a worry, Its still very well designed.
I don't see Taps on the fluvals but I assume your going to use the included ones that come with the filter ?


I would price up the CO2 "reactor"...For around $40-100 you can get an big inline-atomizer or something like a SERA inline-diffuser that should handle your CO2 needs.

Here is an example:

http://www.sera.de/u...ve-reactor.html

If you go to the right places I am sure you can make a custom reactor cheaper, but there is a bit of work involved in getting your CO2 airline, Inline and then possibly using silicone to seal it all in.
Maybe buy a cheap diffuser or even a very fine Airstone and stick it in the pipe (reactor) towards the bottom and above place some course Bioballs on top.
(Not the most informative description, I can draw a diagram if you don't catch my drift)
This may be the cheaper option depending on the brand of your fittings and sourcing. ect...


If your Going the retail route, the SERA Reactor would be the one to go for IMO.
They have a claimed 100% CO2 dissolving rate, which means no micro bubbles through the tank...was well as very CO2 efficient, so no wastage.
The larger model claims to suit around a 1000L (*dont quotes me on this*).
If you are using one of the ProfiLux as you pH controller.... I think it would do just fine on your larger aquarium, if you have your CO2 coming out slowly instead of a quick Blast/flare.
Which is probably better for the fish and plants.
A good option, all round, easy "plug and play" set-up although a tad more expensive.

Rovik.

Ps: Any Progress reports ?



i like the Sera reactor.

I might use that instead. Thanks!

Progress reports.... 2-3 months before the house is finished so it should be up and running in four.

I have just Ferrous Gluconate from our friends at Aquitx and ordered some additional ferts from Dave at Aquagreen.

Testing the auto-fert system shortly. Will keep you posted.

All i need now is a cheap CO2 canister

....anyone?????

#31 Neakit

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 08:13 PM

well to be honest there will be a slight constriction, the pipes them selves or the t pieces (depending on brand of fittings used) so this issue is possible.
You will find there will be positive pressure on the check valves cause of head height. the water will want to go the way of least resistance. I know this for a fact cause i have a similar situation but im "t"ing off a return pump from a sump to run fluidized bed filters. Just another thought on the fert dosing how will you know how much has been put in? you are running a pump into an unknown pressure or vacuum, how do you intend to measure amounts? One thing i can suggest is the GHL (profilux brand) dosing pumps and have their hoses coming over the top of the tank bracing.
Im not trying to shoot you down, these are very real concerns i have for your setup. I would personally try to keep it simple, that way there is less to go wrong.

#32 kassysimon

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Posted 23 March 2012 - 08:45 AM

QUOTE (Neakit @ Mar 22 2012, 10:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
well to be honest there will be a slight constriction, the pipes them selves or the t pieces (depending on brand of fittings used) so this issue is possible.
You will find there will be positive pressure on the check valves cause of head height. the water will want to go the way of least resistance. I know this for a fact cause i have a similar situation but im "t"ing off a return pump from a sump to run fluidized bed filters. Just another thought on the fert dosing how will you know how much has been put in? you are running a pump into an unknown pressure or vacuum, how do you intend to measure amounts? One thing i can suggest is the GHL (profilux brand) dosing pumps and have their hoses coming over the top of the tank bracing.
Im not trying to shoot you down, these are very real concerns i have for your setup. I would personally try to keep it simple, that way there is less to go wrong.


The constriction you speak of isnt possible using class 9 or greater pressure pipe as the fittings are female, a male fitting will create a constriction. The only positive pressure on the check valve will be from the flow side of the valve when the fertilizer pump is activated. the negative pressure will be caused by the FX5 pumping water into the closed end of the check valve.

I will be using the EI method to fertilize, i will use a hopper to dry dose the fertilizer sump and the fertilizer pump will run for 20 seconds. That will be enough time to stir up the fertilizers and pump out the required dosing solution. Solution taken from Petalphile.com. Whatever fertilizer is left at the bottom of the tank will be minimal and diluted with the next introduction of fertilizer and water. The left over fertilizer will soon become a constant and i can adjust the amount of dry fertilizer to suit.

I appreciate the conversation and i dont think your trying to shoot me down.

As a hydro engineer and understand positive and negative atmospheric pressure pretty well so im certain that a Venturi will not occour.

#33 kassysimon

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Posted 24 March 2012 - 11:12 AM

Upon further review i agree with you about too many items on the suction side of the FX5's.

Ill redesign to keep everything on the pump side.

Thanks






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