7 replies to this topic

[Phoenix1286]

Hi team.

I'm attempting to build an aquarium that has a integrated sump/pump in it like your build series. I'm having problems with the pump draining the water out of two chambers and them not filling up. Can you assist? I have attached several photos to help. The pump I'm using us a sicce syncra 1.0. I have had the pump on the bottom of the far right chamber with Pvc pipe going to the top outlet hole but the same thing occurs. Do I have the wrong pump? Thanks.


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[Stormfyre]

Can you take a photo from the top please so we can see baffles etc? Is the Sicce pump mounted near the top of the overflow area or the base?

 

Also, if possible come along on tuesday meeting as it's all about sump design and building and there will be experts there to ask.

[Peckoltia]

Hi 

 

Can you please clear a couple of things up.

 

The water is coming into the 'sump' through the small holes drilled at the top of the first chamber (left). I then don't understand how the water travels through the baffles through to the last chamber? As all the baffle heights appear to be the same height and the baffles all appear to extend to the base of the 'sump'? If this is an issue now when there is no media in the sump, this issue will only be compounded as media is added and the media becomes clogged with debris. If the first chambers are emptying due to the pump, it would be a reasonable conclusion that the holes (overflow) does not have the capacity to replenish the water in the sump as quick as the pump is pumping water out? Which would lead to a fairly simple fix of either reducing the return pumps capacity or increasing the size of the holes and there for increasing the amount of water flowing into the sump.

 

To be honest an internal 'sump' like this could more than likely be air driven anyway. 

Edited by Peckoltia, 03 October 2016 - 12:22 PM.

[Phoenix1286]

Thanks guys. It would appear I may not have the "inlet"!holes big enough for the pump output (950l/hr). The baffles have holes in them alternating bottom, top, bottom. I'm going to increase the size of the inlet holes first. If this doesn't fix it I will have to remove the acrylic and do the baffles aswell. Nothing like learning the hard way. Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Phoenix1286, 03 October 2016 - 02:33 PM.

[Phoenix1286]

Can you take a photo from the top please so we can see baffles etc? Is the Sicce pump mounted near the top of the overflow area or the base?
 
Also, if possible come along on tuesday meeting as it's all about sump design and building and there will be experts there to ask.

sorry can't make it I've moved over to Melbourne. If had the pump both at the top and bottom. I would spear I may have the holes to small to keep up with the pump.


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[Buccal]

Post up your build series, as there'd have to be a difference (fault).
That doesn't even look close to working.
Even if the water did pass,, I don't think it would pass through those holes up top fast enough,,, looks like you got wet, dry, baffled and all sorts of different methods that don't work together.
(Unless of course there's something here for me to learn)....

[Poncho]

Mate I would remove baffles and cut them shorter, then fix some mesh in place of the holes in the baffles. The holes will be prone to getting clogged. Plastic gutter guard from Bunnings is cheap, flexible and easily attached by sandwiching it between the baffle and a small strip of glass or acrylic along the sides. You could use mesh for the inlet as well so it isn't restricted.

Interesting to see how big the rest of the tank is. The space for filter media seems quite limited in this design.

[Buccal]

Gutter guard is a universal marvel used in particular situations.
The best that I can see this working, as poncho said, improve opening with gutter guard.
Alter the baffles so water travels under the first then over the second then under, so the single water channel worms up and down.
Find the correct size bio balls that fit loosely throughout entire worming channel.

Then the main baffle that you used to section that whole filter part from rest of tank,, becomes duplicated again along side creating another pocket next to, but to be the same width as the thickness of jap map sheeting, or two thicknesses for better mech filtration.

So essentially you another section to pre filter which will serve a little as bio, but good mechanical filtration before the water hits your worming maze of bio balls