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Hole In The Head - Temmensis


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#1 Tucunare

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Posted 13 August 2009 - 08:13 PM

just looking for the experts opinions on the best way to treat this guy, not bad at the moment but would prefer to try something that is recomended, the holes at this stage just look like scratches, redness or anything like that. got any suggestions doc

#2 anchar

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Posted 13 August 2009 - 08:27 PM

Hi Steve...is Octozin still on the market?

Andrea smile.gif

#3 Krystal

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Posted 13 August 2009 - 08:39 PM

Octozin would be available, we haven't had it for a few months due to the ridiculous price of it....turns out some people can put a price on their fish sad.gif

For memory it is linked with a protazoan parasite, Hexamita. Wont always be an issue until poor water quality or diet comes into the equation. DMZ and or medicated food may help in treating the fish, Ive never had hands on experience with it so really cant be of more assistance.

#4 Mr_docfish

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Posted 13 August 2009 - 09:14 PM

DMZ in the food and vary the diet as much as possible (live foods and quality dry foods such as Hikari Massivore).... then wean off the live foods (the source of the hexamita) once healed.

Active ingredient of Octozin is either DMZ (Dimetridazole) or Metronidazole... same stuff, but DMZ is more effective.

#5 Tucunare

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Posted 13 August 2009 - 09:34 PM

cheers guys ill give it a go, my thoughts were diet, so ill try vary it up abit.

#6 waruna

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Posted 29 September 2009 - 10:51 PM

QUOTE (Mr_docfish @ Aug 14 2009, 12:14 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
DMZ in the food and vary the diet as much as possible (live foods and quality dry foods such as Hikari Massivore).... then wean off the live foods (the source of the hexamita) once healed.

Active ingredient of Octozin is either DMZ (Dimetridazole) or Metronidazole... same stuff, but DMZ is more effective.



G'Day Steve,

QUOTE
Variety Is The Spice Of Life?

Do fish get bored with one food?

When it comes to this question the majority of hobbyists tend to express in unison
“Variety is the spice of life” or “Would you want to eat the same food all the time?”
These are all human interjections. In captivity, many marine butterflyfish that only consume coral polyps in the wild, would rather starve to death than switch food. Harlequin Shrimp eat only the feet of the Starfish, Monarch Butterflies only eat milkweed, and Koala Bears only eat Eucalyptus leaves.

As long as the one food can sustain the fish in a thriving condition this should not be an issue. Fish are creatures of habit; they are simply not capable of getting bored.
Can fish thrive on one food? The answer is yes! Fish do require a varied diet, but if that one single food is made from a wide variety of high quality raw ingredients, the varied diet that many hobbyists seek can indeed be found in one single formula. If one was to take all of the various ingredients found in a typical wide variety of formulas, and create a food that contained all of these various ingredients in a proper ratio and balance, would it not be the same as feeding all of these foods separately? If only high quality premium ingredients are being used, in many cases that single food might actually be much better for the fish.

This concept has been proven in commercial aquaculture since its inception, and there is certainly nothing new to feeding fish a complete and balanced diet by using a single food. The aquaculture industry has been doing just that for the past century. What many hobbyists fail to realize is that the aquaculture industry is responsible for the vast majority of the science that all commercial fish food manufacturers use when formulating their various foods for tropical fish.

While the information gleaned from these aquaculture studies is basically sound, the majority of this research involves fish that are being raised for human consumption. With the exception of the color of the flesh of certain species such as salmon, trout and shrimp, the overall coloration and longevity of the animal is not a primary concern. Unlike most tropical species, fish raised for human consumption have a very short life span. In light of this, food that’s designed for warm water Tropical fish has to be modified to ensure that a lower amount of lipids is used, high quality marine proteins are used as the main source of protein, and a wide array of natural color enhancing ingredients must also be supplied via the diet such as Krill (Euphausia superba dana), Spirulina algae (Spirulina platensis), natural Astaxanthin (Haematococcus pluvialis)…etc.


Here is the full article:

http://www.perthcich...amp;#entry64119

HTH.

#7 Link2Hell

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Posted 30 September 2009 - 10:06 AM

HIH usually is water related and gets worse with extra stress IMHO
Metronidazol was always the preferred treatment and in tablet form
(have seen bad results using liquid form but it may have been doseage
related) also you can apply direct to the wound area as a paste when
preparing the doseage (always use wet hands and place fish on a wet
towel when attempting direct application out of tank)

Do you have any pics of the fish showing the HIH damage ?

#8 waruna

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Posted 04 October 2009 - 01:00 PM

QUOTE (Link2Hell @ Sep 30 2009, 01:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
HIH usually is water related and gets worse with extra stress IMHO


You might find this interesting...

http://www.newlife.i...hp?showtopic=67

#9 Den

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Posted 06 October 2009 - 07:26 PM

I have had a few fish with this problem, it usually arises in south americans when I get behind tank maintenance. Many South Americans are suseptable to this disease. If you keep SA's and have deep gravel and dont vacumm it you are almost definitely going to end up with this problem.

Using meds can help but if you dont fix your tank maintenance system which caused the problem in the first place you are just gonna get a relapse of the same problem.

These steps can help, alot is about getting the basics stictly correct:

Keep the tank spottless, get rid of gravel and vac the bottom and keep it spottless. If you want gravel keep a thin layer not deeper than 2-3cm and vacumm at least twice a week until the disease is gone, then you can get away with once a week or fortnight depending on stock levels and much you feed them.
Maintain frequent water changes at least 20% twice a week.
Clean filters.
Ensure stable water temp and ph.
Good quality foods, avoid using too much messy live foods.
For S.A.'s use peat extract or Indian almond leaves to get tank acidy right.

Recently I did the above and added Indian almond leaves and got mostly rid of it, though I have let the tank go again as I cant do frequent maintence on it until my new fish room is ready so one fish that was about 95% cured is having a bit of a relapse ATM.

Cheers
Den smile.gif








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