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Freshwater Sump Design

Freshwater Sump

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19 replies to this topic

#1 xcfalcon351

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Posted 03 January 2016 - 04:20 PM

Hi Guys
I'm in the process of setting up a new tank and would value some input in my proposed sump design.

 

Tank is 3000x900x750 and sump is 800x750x610. I will be keeping large Americans.

External footprint of the sump is limited to the size shown. Anything else in the way of configuration can be changed.
​At the moment my choice of media is sponges followed by K1 followed by Marine Pure, but none of that is set in stone if anyone can suggest better options. My main goal is to maximise filtration/biological reaction within the space I have.

 

I'd value any suggestions or criticisms anyone would care to give.

Sump%20Design%20Top.jpg

Sump%20Design%20ISO.jpg

 

Many Thanks

Trav



#2 25GTT

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Posted 03 January 2016 - 05:50 PM

Can't comment on the setup but just want to say your diagram and imagery is fantastic. Your time and outlay on the project I'm sure will get you some helpful responses.

Edited by 25GTT, 03 January 2016 - 05:51 PM.


#3 bigjohnnofish

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 12:05 AM

set up your sump for easy maintenance is my recommendtion... have some fine filter mats as the first entry point with bigger matting/sponge under it... and have plenty of spare fine filter mats and change it daily and wash them out... that will remove bulk of the physical waste and help prevent any of your other media from blocking up....

and remember every surface will grow bacteria on it so chose media with greater surface area but also good flow capability..... k1 is great when set up right but dont discard conventional bioballs etc as well.... everybody has different ideas on sumps so have a good look around and maybe you'll get some new ideas....



#4 Chopstick_mike

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 07:44 AM

I'm currently building a sump and after some research I've found everybody recommends simple designs like 3 chambers with baffles but I'm also struggling with which media to put in , so am following this thread closely

#5 BengaBoy

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 08:33 AM

I know nuthin about sumps, but like to read about em since I had one come with some gear I bought.

for lots of different reasons I converted it to a tank, but still like to read about em

and what I read is ... lots of different stuff, it is amazing how much people differ on this.

 

but here is my contribution:

your tank is about 2,000 litres right?

your sump is maybe 350? is that gonna cut it for such a big tank?

dunno, just sayin/askin



#6 The Simple Guy

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 08:35 AM

Ive just finished building mine and ive got a couple more chambers in than normal. 1. Is the filter matting with course on the bottom and fine on the top as johno said. 2. A moving bed filled with this stuff called hel-x which is a variation of K1. 3. A refugium/seperation area ill be using to hold aggressive/fish that need some alone time. (which isnt exactly needed but i added for piece of mind) 4. A smaller chamber to hold the bioballs ive pulled out of my canisters while the sump matures and any chem bags i may need to add in the future. 5. Return pump and heaters. Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Edited by The Simple Guy, 04 January 2016 - 08:44 AM.


#7 Peckoltia

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 01:11 PM

I recently got a sump built by Paul at Morley.

 

Kept it as simple as possible. Picture speaks a thousand words, first media chamber is filled to the brim with Jap matting and the next is K1 media. That is all.

 

The first intake chamber could house some finer matting quite easily and sit it on top of egg crate as some glass inserts have been put into this chamber.

 

1F1D62E2-C78B-4B09-8D37-9D8BD148A1F7_zps



#8 ronaldskitz

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 04:00 PM

Hi Peckoltia does the k1 section have another pump/airstone churning it or is it just moving with the flow of the sump pump

#9 Peckoltia

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 07:01 PM

The k1 section has two otto power heads tumbling the media. I will revise this soon, and incorporate a large air pump.

#10 Poncho

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Posted 14 January 2016 - 07:46 AM

I agree with what everyone else has said - keep it simple. Also one tip that I learnt, run an air stone or two down to the bottom of your media chambers and have a slow trickle of air coursing through. Helps keep everywhere aerobic and helps avoid dead spots in the sump.

#11 sandgroper

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Posted 14 January 2016 - 12:58 PM

and keep the bottom inch or two clear to avoid water flow restrictions (don't block baffle under and over flows).



#12 xcfalcon351

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Posted 17 January 2016 - 01:22 PM

Thankyou everyone for your comments. Reading what people had to say has given me hours of rethinking :D

 

I've finally settled on a design for the sump, taking into account what people have said here and my own research, as well as speaking to the guys at Aquotix about their system.

Here is the design I've gone with.

Sump%20Design3final%20ISO.jpg

 

I will be using coarse sponge and filter floss in the first section, 50lt of Hel-X fluidised in the second section and 2 blocks of MarinePure in the final section for denitrification (hopefully).

I am planning on running a Laguna Max-Flo Power Jet 16500lph which will give me around 12000lph @ 2m head.

Air for the fluidised bed plus airstones intank will be from a PondMax HK-80L pump.

Heating duties will be handled by an Aquazonic Titan G2 1500w heater.

Additional flow intank will be provided by a Tunze 6305 and 6105 running on a  Tunze 7095 Multicontroller.

Lighting at this stage will be 3 x 4ft Ista LED units.

 

Plumbing is 2 x 40mm Standpipes to the sump and a 32mm return from the pump. I'll also be putting in a 25mm drain to make waterchanges easier.

 

It's all taken a bit longer than hoped to figure out and get organised, but the end is in sight.

If anyone has any further suggestions I'd love to hear them.

​Cheers guys.

Trav



#13 kassysimon

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Posted 19 January 2016 - 11:46 AM

You should be using 3 stand pipes from tank. <br />One for full siphon. One for partial (this is what makes it overflow silent) and the third for an emergency pipe. <br />Speaking from first hand experience using both methods. <br /><br /><br />Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

#14 xcfalcon351

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Posted 19 January 2016 - 12:10 PM

3 pipes?
​First pipe will be full siphon as you say.
Second pipe will be fractionally higher with a trickle of flow to keep the system quiet. Standard Durso configuration. This second pipe will take the extra water should the first get blocked.
​You want a third pipe for what? In case the first TWO block?

 

Thanks for your comment, but, yeah, nah. 



#15 kassysimon

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Posted 21 January 2016 - 08:32 PM

Dursos dont have any redundancy.

 

If the full siphon gets blocked the water goes down the partial siphon right?

 

When the full siphon blocks up and the partial siphon turns into the full siphon you no longer have a a partial siphon to take the extra water, so where does that extra water go.......out of the top of the tank and/or your sump goes dry and you burn your pump.


Edited by kassysimon, 21 January 2016 - 08:34 PM.


#16 Jamievb

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Posted 07 March 2016 - 10:09 PM

Guys I'm thinking to make the siphon infallible could I drill a hole at the to of the overflow and use a vacuum pump to continually suck air/water out. I've heard the pvc system over the edge with siphoning sometimes looses the siphon due to air getting into the system. Then the sump gets sucked dry and there's flooding as a result.

I'm thinking about taking an air pump apart an somehow attaching a suction line to the intake then inserting the suction line into the top of the overflow system.

Does anyone agree that this will improve the siphon reliability and has anyone converted an air pump to a vacuum pump?


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#17 kassysimon

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Posted 08 March 2016 - 09:42 PM

Dude. I don't even know what your talking about.....<br /><br />Did you post in the right thread?<br /><br /><br />Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

#18 Jamievb

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Posted 08 March 2016 - 11:19 PM

Sorry I'm talking about sump design. There needs to be an overflow to make it work. I have built one that siphons the water out of the main tank over the edge of the tank into a secondary sump tank. With this design some people have mentioned the siphon failing because of air entering the system from bubbles being created as water goes down the intake tube. My solution is to make a vacuum pump by modifying an air pump. The vacuum line could be plumbed into the top of the overflow siphon sucking out any air that manages to get caught in the system. It would have to be constantly on but would ensure that even if the bubbles got caught they would be sucked straight out again.

Hopefully this makes more sense?


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#19 kassysimon

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 09:33 AM

Aha!!

Yes that makes sense but the OP says he is using a durso which didn't go over the tank but rather through holes cut into the tanks base or wall.

If your asking for help on a design for yourself you'll be better off starting a new thread as this design is different to yours and you'll get a dedicated response.

Any ways, I can't help as I've never used on over the edge overflow.
Start a new thread and go from there mate.


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#20 aussiemcgee

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 06:15 PM

Keep it simple mate, check the marine threads and ole mate Google.

It's just an overflow weir down to the sump and a pump sends it back...
Obviously best to have a drilled tank in the base or back panel.
Plenty of ways to do it, I have a 32mm primary drain that is regulated with a valve and a 32mm emergency - whisper quiet.

Just make sure you set the DT inlet and weir height right and leave enough space in the sump for pipe drainage in a power cut

Edited by aussiemcgee, 09 March 2016 - 06:17 PM.





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