34 replies to this topic

[madasa]

salt is a lot cheaper, safer and equally effective Booze - you just need to dilute it more seeing as you are treating plecs.

Whichever way you go keep the treatment up for 7 - 10 days to be on the safe side.

[Mr_docfish]

If your water quality is not 100% or you have no way of being 100% sure, stick with madasa's routine. Madasa is right in saying it is cheaper and safer and as I said before 'I have seen fish shrug off whitespot without treatment, just good husbandry. But if fish are stressed, you need to treat and keep it up for at least 7-10 days, and don't bother treating if the water quality is bad, you will just kill the fish faster.' What I forgot to add was that salt is the only safe treatment, at the right dose, especially when the water quality is bad.
When I asked 'do you have anything else at hand to use against white spot' what I was looking for was products that contained mainly acriflavine to assist in treatment along side the salt. I find that 90% of people who have spent a lot of money on a fish want some form of 'potion or lotion' to feel as though they are doing something to prevent their investment from dying. Unfortunately people cannot 'see' salt working but colourful products that make water green or blue can be 'seen'.
Madasa is very right in pointing out that there is very little else you need but salt and clean, warm water - and that goes for most diseases and related problems. So human nature aside, madasa is right.

PS test your water...please!

Mr_docfish

[booze]

just for the record, i do not need "to see" the water as working. meth blue was the first and least potent thing to plecos that i came across.
the only other med i had used was melafix so when the meth blue turned my tank BLUE i was like WTF!!!!
now i know better
and a lot poorer. not to worry.

[Mr_docfish]

just for the record, i do not need "to see" the water as working.

Sorry I did not mean you directly, I was just talking in general terms to explain why (even though, I too, agree with the salt only method) I still went down the alternative treatment road to which madasa pointed out, in his opinion, was not necessary.

In hindsight though, you wont be making the same mistake in the future and I hope others reading this thread will learn too (the comments made on the forums are for your benefit and hopefully others too).

BTW how are they looking, better or worse?

Mr_docfish

[booze]

just for the record, i do not need "to see" the water as working.

Sorry I did not mean you directly, I was just talking in general terms to explain why (even though, I too, agree with the salt only method) I still went down the alternative treatment road to which madasa pointed out, in his opinion, was not necessary.

In hindsight though, you wont be making the same mistake in the future and I hope others reading this thread will learn too (the comments made on the forums are for your benefit and hopefully others too).

BTW how are they looking, better or worse?

Mr_docfish

yeah, ive learnt my lesson. thanks for the help
theyre looking much better now. ive added tri-sulfer. i lost the 2 x 168's over the weekend by they were affected the worst and were covered in whitespot.
but yeah, looks to be on the mend now.
thanks for the help everyone

[madasa]

A problem is Booze that everyone thinks they know the answer and might come up with fancy anc non fancy ideas. Making it confusing for you.

Salt and heat are an age old treatment. Remember that whitespot can only be killed in the free swimming stage (about day 4). Therefore maintain treatment for 7 - 10 days as a precaution.

Good tank husbandry and quarantining of new fish should prevent whitespot. Increase your water changes by 10%.

Fish should not die from whitespot - EVER! Keep salt at hand always.

I am anal about water quality and dont think I have had a case of white spot ever in my more serious fishkeeping and breeding years.

[booze]

A problem is Booze that everyone thinks they know the answer and might come up with fancy anc non fancy ideas. Making it confusing for you.

Salt and heat are an age old treatment. Remember that whitespot can only be killed in the free swimming stage (about day 4). Therefore maintain treatment for 7 - 10 days as a precaution.

Good tank husbandry and quarantining of new fish should prevent whitespot. Increase your water changes by 10%.

Fish should not die from whitespot - EVER! Keep salt at hand always.

I am anal about water quality and dont think I have had a case of white spot ever in my more serious fishkeeping and breeding years.

roger. i did a water change on monday arvo and am going to do another on wednesday or thursday. should i add more tri-sulfer?
cheers
im off to bed, damn night shift

[benckie]

good to see you using uv,s snowy :wink: looks like people are slowly getting it

[benckie]

ive made a few mistakes rushed things in the past and run out of tanks and lost colonies of pride and joys.

Now im more carefull and use uv,s one every thing well now i only have 2 tanks one for fish one for food and the food.

Ive been going on about uv,s for around 12 months now for a good reason belive it or not.

I bet snowy your loving what the uv,s do the the water aswell i think it would help with the awsome pic,s you take.

I think it help me in the early days when i had a decent camera that made up for me having no skill and no patience.

The camera i have now its not as good with pic,s and we are taking over 100 shots to get to get a few very average shots :roll:

[muscle-man]

Hi guys,

Does anyone know how much would a Aqua one 2450UV (1100 litres p/h) cost?

Thanks

[benckie]

:wink: Yeah the UV certainly helps clarify things alittle.

For those who don't already know UV's help kill most water bourne parasites, and algaes, which in turn helps prolong your water quality. :twisted:

On my 6x2x2's with Tropheus I run an Aqua one 2450UV (1100 litres p/h), along with a CF2400 (2400 litres p/h), and either 2 x internal Eheim 2252 (1200 litres p/h) and or a pond power head (for turn over, airation and mainly polishing duties....(3600 litres p/h min. up to 4900 litres p/h).

The UV in the CF2450UV is big enough to do the job, but small enough to enable some algae to grow on my rocks (good for T's). :twisted:

nice and some people recon i was over the top with 10 to 14 times an hour with uv,s

[Ashana]

MM Around the $500 mark i think but you may find they are cheaper some places and more expensive at others.

HTH

Aimee