45 replies to this topic

[dazzabozza]

I think wot Kev is trying to say is the bubbles moving through the water does two things -

• circulates lower level dissolved-oxygen water to the top of the tank
• and agitates the water surface to allow for gaseous exchange

Dazza

[Trekrider]

Thanks Kev and Dazza, I was aware that putting the air stone back promotes circulation rather than direct injection of Oxygen but I can report that it has had the desired effect and all tank occupants appear to be back to normal - what a scare though!

Still have the cloudiness to resolve

[Mr_docfish]

I have had one situation in the past that made me have to go to the owners shop to look at the tank to work it out... not to say that this is your case, but to think laterally just in case there is some minor detail that could help..

In this case, the water in the tank was getting milky cloudy gradually after a water change.
After all tests and products were exhausted.. I went to check it out for myself...
The hood on top of the tank was made of chip board, and the condensation was slowly picking up the adhesive (possibly PVA glue) from the wood and small drops were entering the uncovered aquarium... one drop per 5 minutes... 24 hour a day.....
the owner got rid of the hood, and the tank never got cloudy again....

True story!!

Get a jar of water from the tank and leave it standing undisturbed for 24 hours and see if it clears up on its own. If it does, then there is particulate matter that is not being picked up by the filter (probably too fine) or being constantly disturbed from the gravel or like the above case, entering the aquarium.
If it does not clear up on its own, then there is a bacterial/algae bloom. Stop water changing and wait it out (or add a UV steriliser/add bacteria like API simply clear if you are in a rush).

this is a simple and cheap technique to identify (or at least narrow down) the cause of cloudiness.

HTH

Oliver

[Trekrider]

Thanks Oliver,

I have a hardwood hood plus glass cover so, as you say, this is unlikely to be the cause in my case. The lateral thinking is a good idea though - i've tried and can't think of anything like that. The other point is that it's not getting any worse over time - it's slightly better than when I made all the changes a week ago but now doesn't seem to be changing (better or worse).

I will try the jar of water test, that will certainly help to narrow it down. I have ordered a UV steriliser to see if that makes a difference - the green mess in the internal filter certainly made me think it was possibly an algae problem.

Regards

[Boof86]

this has become a very interesting thread with quite alot of info thrown around. keep us all posted!

[Mr_docfish]

....the green mess in the internal filter certainly made me think it was possibly an algae problem.

Bingo..... UV is a good move, let us know how it goes (it might take a few days depending on the wattage and volume of water)

[Trekrider]

I did as suggested and filled a jam jar with tank water when I got home from work this arvo', held it up to the light and it looked clear. I then got a torch and if you hold it at about 120 degrees to your eye you can see that it is cloudy. After just over five hours it looks exactly the same (no sign of settling) - I will check again tomorrow but this also stacks up with the algae theory.

Just have to wait for the UV filter to arrive.

[Trekrider]

Should I put the UV filter before the canister or after it?

Thanks,

[Cicolid]

I was advised by a couple of LFS to put the UV on the return hose.
This way the water has been filtered & will not contain any debris etc.
This is what I did & I have no complaints after running it for 3 or 4 months.

Col

[matg]

Should I put the UV filter before the canister or after it?

Thanks,

barry
i put my uv on the tube going into filter that way algea etc is killed off and can be filtered out ,i cant wait to hear how it goes
regards
matg

[Trekrider]

I had a pond filter with built in UV and that was before the filter - the blurb with the filter said it was so that the dead algae would be filtered out (as matg said). From the two replies I guess it probably doesn't matter which side it goes I think I will put it after the filter for the reasons Col was given.

I checked the jam jar again this morning - after 14 hours it looked exactly the same (it was still a jam jar ), the water looked the same as well, with no sign of settling.

[Mr_docfish]

In a relatively small volume (as in an aquarium v's a pond) it would not matter a great deal where you put it, it will still do the same job eventually.

Keep the jam jar with the water (keep it near the tank light), so you can compare later on when the UV arrives, just for comparison and a bit of fun.

[Trekrider]

Keep the jam jar with the water (keep it near the tank light), so you can compare later on when the UV arrives, just for comparison and a bit of fun.

It's now well over 24 hours and the water in the jam jar looks just the same which confirms 100% that it's not sediment - I nearly threw it out but will keep it as you suggest. I can't wait to get the UV to see if that clears it up (and how quickly).

[Boof86]

are uvs used on marines?

[Boof86]

are uvs used on marines?

also i heard after filter was best so it would pick up any bad bacterias that live in the filter???

[Trekrider]

The UV steriliser arrived today and is all plumbed in, see below:

 UV_Filter.jpg   50.48KB   37 downloads

For the observant amongst you, yes, the CF1200 on the right is turned off - small problem here, when I connected everything back up the output tap on one of the canisters was leaking and I have to get a new tap It was actually the one on the left that was leaking so I took the one from the right so that the UV would be in circuit.

As soon as my LFS opens in the morning I will get a new valve then it should be back to two filters and the UV just have to wait and see if the UV cures my problem.

[booze]

fingers crossed mate. let us know how it goes in a couple of days!

[benckie]

good to see you guys are finaly comming around to uv's lols only took long enough

[Trekrider]

good to see you guys are finaly comming around to uv's lols only took long enough

Well, I'm sold on UV, it's only been 24 hours and already the tank looks a lot better. There are still some 'bits' in the water but the swirling mists have gone.

The only fly in the ointment is the fact I still can't get the connector on one of the canisters to stop leaking. I bought two new complete connectors today and to cut a long story short one of them leaks as badly as the original one I'm replacing I now have one canister that is OK and one that has a leak so bad that I have had to disconnect it. So it's back to the LFS tomorrow to try and get him to replace the new connector - I sense an argument coming on.

Thanks for all the help on this one guys.

[Cawdor]

Good to hear your problems seem solved with the UV. Got one myself on my large tank, wouldn't be without it now.

As for the leaks - guess you'll be buying Eheim canisters next instead?
I have two CF1200 myself and they work fine, no leaks. But as I posted on another thread, my CF2400 leaks randomly. Seems to be a bit hit and miss with the AquaOne range. All my 3 Eheims have never had problems. Two of them are second hand units so I don't even know how old they are.