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New Tank Design


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#21 Hypanheaven

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 02:53 AM

tank and sump will be built by Paul at morley aquariums

#22 Wetlips

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 06:53 AM

Now that's looking insane hahah nice design.. R u going too support the return from the pump?? What size pump u thinking

#23 Hypanheaven

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 12:00 PM

7600lph, it will all be supported with pipe stays screwed to the frame

#24 Peckoltia

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 06:26 PM

I wouldn't put the K1 media in the first chamber. As it is purely biological media you don't want it being the first media your tank water gets to in your sump. Have it last so the water is at its cleanest. Let the water pass through your mechanical media first.

#25 Hypanheaven

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 07:35 PM

Ok big Al ill have to rearrange. My design I want the water flowing over the
K1 to flow from the bottom upwards to help keep it floating around but easy enough to change


#26 Peckoltia

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 08:08 PM

Can always use a large airstone in the K1 chamber to create uplift.

#27 Hypanheaven

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 11:41 PM

all good i have swapped it all around have added pics to first page, the spaces for the media dont look too big, but remembering the width is 2foot, the actual sump capacity for media itself is around 30L of pure media, then there will be a few slabs of foam in the media compartments 50mm thick, then there will be 3-6L of K1, havnt decided on how much i will need. The K1 will be held in its spot by 2 pieces of eggcrate top and bottom

Edited by Hypanheaven, 13 February 2013 - 06:11 AM.


#28 Hypanheaven

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 06:12 AM

there will be an airsont under the k1 anyways but just easier to also have the water assisting

#29 Hypanheaven

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 05:26 PM

so i have now decided i will have another hole, drilled in the bottom pane of glass of the main tank close to the end where the weir is, that will have a bulkhead on it and a pool strainer over the top of it (like in the bottom of your pool). The water will flow through pvc to a 6000lph pump which will push it through to a spa cartridge filter, then it will return to the very top of the tank, creating a closed loop system. I will probably send it through one of the return holes i already have there, and ill just use a single hole for the main sump filter.

This will be purely mechanical filtration and mean the bottom should be fairly spotless all the time

Edited by Hypanheaven, 15 February 2013 - 05:27 PM.


#30 theKid

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 08:04 PM

Not sure what your keeping in the tank, but I'd avoid the bottom drilling if at all possible. If you have a bulkhead or pipework leak in a weir box or hole near the top of the tank you get a little water on the floor, failure of any part of a system with a drain on the bottom will rapidly empty the entire tank.

If you want to pick up water from the lower area you can have an acrylic front around your existing wier with slots at the bottom and use returns or power heads to push water in that direction.

#31 Hypanheaven

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 09:16 PM

having a hole in the bottom is the same as having a suction pipe just off the bottom which is what i need to suck the detritus/crap from the bottom, aim is to have nothing in the tank what so ever, tank will have something special in it.
i have a little trick up my sleeve involving Omron water leakage sensor and a solenoid shut off directly after the bulkhead, the bulkhead will be siliconed in as well as tightened.

the leakage seconsor is 2 wires close together in the drip tray of the pump and if water touches them, it creates a closed loop to the alarm, the Omron puts out a 24VAC signal which will will power a reticulation solenoid also 24vac

Edited by Hypanheaven, 17 February 2013 - 06:22 AM.


#32 Neakit

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 11:16 AM

thats an awful lot of reliance on something that can fail. Im a big fan of tanks being setup so if the power fails it will stop draining cause of design and not relying on a man made "valve". I dont trust murphy he comes and screws with everything.

#33 Hypanheaven

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 12:31 PM

criticism is great, any suggestions on fixing the problem? have been doing alot of research on MFK and theres some crazy designs in there but i think if built right it shouldnt be a problem, wetlips on here has 3x50mm holes in the bottom, tank runs great, granted if something let go it would be 1600L of water on a 2nd story appartment...touch wood maybe

having a piece of acrylic infront of the wier would look fairly ugly from the front and cleaning inbetween the 2 pieces would be a PITA.
Definantly the best detritus sucker is direct from the bottom, but im open to ideas, i do realise that if it let go it would be all hell on divorse etc etc but i believe that if i can make it work and make it work safely and reliably it would be an excelent system, spoke to one guy on MFK and he has been running 7 years with a spa filter sucking from bottom without ever having to suck poo from the bottom manually

And i have an idea that will go with the water level sensor and shut off solenoid, the pump and filter will be sitting inside of a hydraponics tub and it will have a bulkhead in it that will be connected to the drain line which is already there. thats about as fail safe as you can get i believe, at the end of the day the pressure of the water above is only 20kpa (0.2bar) which is absolutely bugger all.

Another reason why im going with this is that i have heard of TB's scitzin and bumping into stand pipes and breaking bulkheads, if not worse the glass by the bending moment caused by the lever from the pipe/bulkhead. Ultimately i want to have absolutely nothing in the tank for anything to bump into or burn them selves. Just wide open swimming space

Edited by Hypanheaven, 18 February 2013 - 07:14 AM.


#34 Departure

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 04:22 AM

What program are you using to draw your designs? are sumps noisy? what do you think the final cost of this project will be?

#35 Hypanheaven

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 05:50 AM

they are not if built right an the piping is built right, most of the noise comes from hard lines (pvc) and there elbows. i have actually stepped the tank up to 8x3x2.5 so at the moment looking >$4500 once i have built the cabinet around the stand, right now with no cabinet and no plumbing, $4200 (tank, stand, sump, matrix, pumps x2, sponge, K1 kaldnes, air pump x2, spa filter)

This is all brand new and not skimping, i already have 2 300w jagers. I have already sold my old tank (1 still forsake) and half the fish, after selling off all my old gear it will cost me around $950 out of my pocket

and Sketchup is the program

Edited by Hypanheaven, 18 February 2013 - 07:10 AM.


#36 Neakit

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 09:36 AM

At the end of the day, i cant see what your trying to achieve being "drain safe" and fool proof without a wier or stand pipe, you could run a double wier or a glass box over the stand pipe so you are drawing your water from the bottom and it wont rely on a piece of equipment turning off to stop water everywhere.

#37 Hypanheaven

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 10:06 AM

With my closed loop system that I want in not worried about power off because If it powers off the water cant go anywhere
I am sucking from the bottom of the tank and then it goes through pressure pipe through pump then filter then returns to tank through the top I already have a wier and sump taking water from top of tank but im trying to achieve pure mechanical filtration from the botom of the tank
And i dont think a wier sucking from bottom will have enough force to suck the poos up to the top especially when they get large ie from a grown motoro or bass

II'm toying with a corner type wier that has an opening at the bottom then have stand pipes in the corner box so they can't be knocked I think this may be the best and the other I can place a small pump in there to push the detritus to the stand pipes what do you think of that

#38 Hypanheaven

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 03:56 PM

this is my latest design, i thank you for steering me away from holes in the bottom!!!!
i think this will look nice in the tank and have good functionality. its a mix of the best worlds believe.

it alleviates holes in the bottom, stand pipes, and sharp corners in tank if i just made it a box, water will suck from the bottom, i can put a small power head down there to help force detritus to the wier box.
I have also arranged my sump to accomodate more K1, now the sump goes, sponge/matrix, K1, sponge matrix then pump/heater, may even put heater into corner will see how it looks, back will be painted black so you wont be able to see much in the corner.



Edited by Hypanheaven, 18 February 2013 - 04:04 PM.


#39 Bowdy

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 04:13 PM

Wouldn't you think a all power head will just blow crap back out the bottom slit instead of helping it get sucked out. Through the over flow ?
Also what's the reason for using matrix

#40 Hypanheaven

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 04:37 PM

matrix is just to mix it up a bit, its cheap and can be bought in bulk easily and has a good rep, i use it now and it works a treat. fair enough K1 is apparently the nuts but ive never used it and it will be a bit of experimenting in the start i think to ensuring that its constantly moving. I will have an air pump ect under it but we will see.
the power head shouldnt blow it back out if i aim it upwards, but who knows, i have couple lying around so it will all be experimental. i have a sicce reef blower i will use up the other end to send flow along the bottom and the nozzles at the top will blow along the top




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