Mixing African And American Cichlids
#1
Posted 14 January 2013 - 05:01 PM
#2
Posted 14 January 2013 - 05:07 PM
I don't like to mix the different area'd fish but each to their own..
#3
Posted 15 January 2013 - 10:49 PM
but yeah i had 2 peacocks in there 2 and the nic let them stay in his cave with them all the time but once i put the female nic in that i bought the 2 peacocks and some 3 inch firemouths were all dead!
gotta take into consideration that the substrate spawners dont have the added feature of being able to keep the eggs in their mouth so they will be aggresively defending them...
well just some ideas for ya
#4
Posted 15 January 2013 - 10:54 PM
#5
Posted 15 January 2013 - 11:51 PM
#6
Posted 16 January 2013 - 04:15 AM
they are my favourite cichlid, but atm i dont have any i have 2 green texas and 2 convicts.. decided to try out some other fish for once. I am really loving the texas
#7
Posted 16 January 2013 - 07:49 AM
#8
Posted 16 January 2013 - 08:52 AM
You must have a large well seeded filter.
Best to collect all different types as juveniles to grow out together.
Buy two or three of each type, and as they grow and females show, get rid of all females, so the breeding process doesn't take place.
It's a must that you really over crowd your tank to the max with fish.
Over crowding stops particular individuals being singled out.
Every one gets their turn at being picked on by the dominants, and each confrontation is always short lived.
Keep all fish well fed to reduce aggression.
This set up will need plenty of water changes and filter cleans.
These type set ups are a hive of activity and even draw the attention of non-fish keepers.
#9
Posted 16 January 2013 - 10:49 AM
Unless you're worries about the aggression when breeding?
#10
Posted 16 January 2013 - 12:37 PM
#11
Posted 16 January 2013 - 12:46 PM
#12
Posted 16 January 2013 - 06:30 PM
The only two fish I'd say stay away from is paratilapia pollini and buttercoferi.
Spelling may be bit off with the latter mentioned slang (hornet fish).
Obviously peacock bass and alike stay away from to for a mixed continent fish tank.
#13
Posted 16 January 2013 - 11:55 PM
#14
Posted 17 January 2013 - 09:16 AM
It is perfectly normal to lose one here and there while balancing things out.
If one spends a few years doing this, the style of the aquarium is original and interesting to extreme.
Neither does one get board of their fish needing to change the types they have as the interest n excitement from the challenge of combining inhabitance literally lasts forever.
Just looking back to the beginning of this thread, it was stated, (mixing fish with different requirements).
A Ph of 7.6 as usually is from a tap with medium hardness will do fine for just about any fish you find in a shop.
What people fail to realize is that these fish are so far domesticated and bred in captivity that they have adapted to the parameters of our avaliable water.
I straight out use tap water in my breed room.
Stingrays, Malawi, tangs, Americans, Madagascans and other African tributaries all breed in same water.
Note.. (only shop sales not to public for business ethical reasons except stingrays)
All suburbs should have close enough water parameters give or take to do the same job.
But as Johnno said, some areas may briefly have ammonia at periodical maintenance times.
Edited by Buccal, 17 January 2013 - 09:31 AM.
#15
Posted 17 January 2013 - 10:16 AM
Buccal I love reading your posts, descriptive and clear and makes learning or expanding on current knowledge all the easier
#16
Posted 17 January 2013 - 10:19 AM
#17
Posted 17 January 2013 - 11:24 AM
Buccal I love reading your posts, descriptive and clear and makes learning or expanding on current knowledge all the easier
Thanks for the kind words mrdk, yes over filtrating is needed,
This is why I have really focused on the K medias.
The K medias are 100% biological and never change in the way of clogging and lessening in performance.
A simple little debris collection tray with a fine collection screen or media can go under the water spout coming out of the K1 media bio sump or overhead tub.
There is no circular flow action to the tank with this method, so two 5w power heads spaced evenly breaking the surface is all and more of what's needed.
The collection screen can be thoroughly cleaned with a cheap high pressure cleaner from bunnings.
The tumbling action in the K media always keeps debris coming out in fine particles.
To reduce constant maintenance, make up 4-5 mechanical screens and keep them in a foam esky box.
And pull out a new one every time it needs changing.
High pressure clean all spent screens at the end of month or two months.
Even quality canister filters half way to maintenance time are only operating at a fraction of their ability and this is where the damage occurs to the weaker fish in a designed crowded environment.
With canister use with a intended over crowding situation, given that one is adamant on using canisters, three small canisters should be used that add up to the size needed.
This way every third week one can be cleaned and large surface areas are always free enough inside canisters to hold sufficient numbers of beneficial bacteria at a constant average.
#18
Posted 18 January 2013 - 12:31 AM
a quick one for you buccal... how much k media do you think you need to replace your current sump ???
#19
Posted 18 January 2013 - 04:18 AM
So at the moment I'm cycling 40 liters worth, to go into sump soon.
Maybe 100 liters needed all up.
There is 90 liters or so activating my female ray pen.
Eventually on my display tank I will stand upright two lengths of 150mm PVC pipe with bottoms endcapped.
They will have K media in with water from tank injected in at the bottom of upright pipes.
A medium air stone at bottom of each for tumbling K media..
Water will return out top through a 150mm elbow.
A gutter guard screen at top near water exit will stop the K media exiting.
#20
Posted 18 January 2013 - 01:16 PM
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