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Help In Design Tank Hood

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10 replies to this topic

#1 shane78

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  • Joined: 02-October 13
  • Location: merriwa

Posted 28 October 2013 - 03:28 PM

Hey guys Im looking at making a hood for my 3 footer, just need some help, the last time I tried this I had a problem with water running down the sides of the tank from condensation,

how can I avoid this I dont have any glass lids for the top of tank and dont really want to as it would be a pain for feeding and cleaning.

Also what would be the best wood to use, last time I built one I made it out of chipboard, i know not the best Idea Ive had, I painted the crap out of it and it didnt seal, Is pine ok as the stand is made from pine and I would like it to match.

Thanks  guys your help is much appreciated.

#2 silverscreen

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  • Joined: 04-October 12
  • Location: bennett springs

Posted 28 October 2013 - 04:13 PM

pine is the wood that most hoods are made of...its light and cheap and easy to stain most colors


if you dont use glass or some form of lid then you are going to get condensation on the hood.


just easier to remove a small glass lid and feed your fish than watch the hood slowly swell and bulge and crack and than fall apart...because you have to be carefull what you seal your hood with because it will break down and contaminate your


tank water...my honest opinion..get use to glass lids.


good luck

#3 Furnix

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  • Joined: 04-April 11
  • Location: Wanneroo

Posted 28 October 2013 - 06:49 PM

i agree with getting lids! My lids are in 2 pieces the back piece is 3/4 the width of the tank and then the front piece is only really small with a glass handle to aid in lifting it up and i find that so much better then sliding a whole slab of glass off the top of your tank. Other option is to get a glazier to cut a corner out and you can just feed through the small hole and will greatly reduce evap!


As for wood to make your hood out out. Stay away from thin anything although it is cheaper it will bend and sag. I made my first hood out of 4 ply and its all bent and twisted and doesnt look that great. So spend that $10-20 more as it will look way better and last longer! but pine is a good choice. MDF can work but it will swell with no lids on and start to fall apart! 

#4 shane78

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  • Joined: 02-October 13
  • Location: merriwa

Posted 28 October 2013 - 08:16 PM

ok cool i have some glass I will do that then Furnix do u know of anyone north that cuts glass im from the mindarie area

#5 JackMack

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  • Joined: 11-July 13
  • Location:Yokine
  • Location: Yokine

Posted 28 October 2013 - 09:51 PM

Cut it yourself.
Very easy and the correct tools will cost you $15 at max.


#6 TheTexasCichlidMasacre

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  • Joined: 12-March 11
  • Location:Dalwallinu
  • Location: Dalwallinu

Posted 28 October 2013 - 11:30 PM

cost me about the same as the tools to get lids cut at morley and if you are a club member you also get 10% off... :/

my 6x2x2 tank lids were 6 pieces of glass 3 skinnier pieces at the front with marbles siliconed onto the top as handles and bigger pieces sat at the back...

#7 smirq

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  • Joined: 25-July 13
  • Location:Kewdale
  • Location: Kewdale

Posted 29 October 2013 - 12:03 AM

I made a really simple hood for my 4 footer out of marine ply - http://www.bunnings..../plywood-sheets


It was a rush job until I have time to do it stylish, but it's been solid for a few months without condensation etc, and I took my glass off.

I got Bunnings in Belmont to cut the wood into the sections needed so I'd get a nice straight edge, they do it for free, but have an OHS prescribed minimum leftover edge policy that might mean buying an extra sheet and having more unusable offcuts.


The construction is basic. Tank is 4x2 (60x120), so here were the section sizes I needed - 

top - 60 x 120

front/back - 30 x 120 (It's a bit tall, I'll probably drop to 15-20 on the next build)

left/right/centre lateral - 30 x 60 (also drop 15-20 next build).


Add some millimetres where required to account for the thickness of ply you use so you can get it sitting flush on or over the tank. 

I used 12mm on all pieces except the top so there's enough wood to screw into the side of. Top was thinner to cut costs, reduce weight and because the screws only go through, not into it. Depending on your filtration system, a jigsaw is hand to accommodate the plumbing. A hole for 19mm tubing attached to a garden hose fitting makes water changes possible without having to remove the hood - http://www.bunnings....11109b_p3120628


Another thing that probably helps reduce moisture buildup is the PC case fans that are rigged up inside to keep my budget LED heatsinks cool. I'd assume LED lighting to be the best option, and any unit with a fan would be good. If you already have other lighting, the PC case fans are pretty cheap from any computer shop or Altronics, and if you want you can cut a section out of the back to rig it up as extractor fan. I think the air movement helps to increase O2/CO2 transfer on the water surface too.

#8 shane78

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  • Joined: 02-October 13
  • Location: merriwa

Posted 29 October 2013 - 09:30 AM

got pics  smirq I need ideas my last was just a square box

#9 smirq

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  • Joined: 25-July 13
  • Location:Kewdale
  • Location: Kewdale

Posted 29 October 2013 - 11:59 AM

No pix as yet, but I'd intended to document the next build. I can take a couple of the finished one I have at the moment and put it up when I get a chance this week. It's also pretty boxy.

Edited by smirq, 29 October 2013 - 11:59 AM.

#10 Morley Aquariums

Morley Aquariums
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  • Joined: 26-April 13

Posted 29 October 2013 - 09:48 PM

Feel free to drop in & copy or get ideas from our hoods. They are functional & neat with several styles. I have no problem with anyone copying them at all & happy to advise as well. These timber hoods are sold by several of the best specialty shops in perth so quality & design very good. Easy to make as well.

#11 shane78

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  • Joined: 02-October 13
  • Location: merriwa

Posted 30 October 2013 - 08:03 AM

cool will do thanks

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