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White Spot & Treatment Options

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29 replies to this topic

#21 Moses

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  • Location: Pinjarra

Posted 26 October 2013 - 08:10 PM

Excellent news! Now you will be better prepared if it happens again. Your surviving loaches will be stronger for it in my experience

#22 Clownz!!

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  • Location: Inglewood

Posted 26 October 2013 - 09:08 PM

:D Yes, I now have a little experience in the field thanx you everyone who helped me gain it. I am also quite committed to adding to the database of knowledge this extensively, well written and contributed to forum has to offer!! thank you again everyone who helped me. I am also preparing to add my 18 watt UV steriliser soon, so hopefully that should keep the white spot from returning *fingers crossed*. 

#23 sandgroper

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Posted 27 October 2013 - 12:23 AM

Clownz was this a new set up, the reason i ask is when i hear or speak to people about their white spot out break. The most common factors are adding lots of fish from lots of sources to quickly. They also empty the fish water from the bag into their aquarium, this is a no no. You should never add someone else's water into your system. It's a bit like rooting anything that moves with out wearing protection, you never know what they might have. The bag should be emptied into a container and add a little bit of your water to acclimatize the fish, wait about 15 minutes and repeat, wait about another 15 minutes. Then scoop out the fish and tip the water on the garden or down the drain. It's not fool prove but it goes a long way to reduce contamination, as a quarantine tank is the best option but the same applies to the quarantine tank.

#24 Clownz!!

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Posted 27 October 2013 - 08:53 AM

The tank is relatively new its about 2 months old now and I seeded it from my other tank (filter media) and drew 40% of its water originally from another tank. I also took some gravel from the the other tank and put it in the FX5.I watched the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate at a daily basis until I had seen them disappear then I added my clowns. I should have used a quarantine tank first as I have no real excuse not to as I have 2, 75 gallon tanks doing nothing at the moment :brickwall: . And I also tried to scoop the fish out of the bag at the time but I think I gave up or something. I will try your way next time I get fish though (i hadn't even thought of using that method :D ). 

#25 jairus

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  • Location: Atwell

Posted 06 July 2014 - 08:19 PM

The easiest and most cost effective way to treat fresh water ich that i have used on all my various wild caught tanks was; Turn my heater up to 32 Deg, add a bag of aquarium salt; keep the lights off and soak the fish food in garlic before feeding. Ich is gone in less than a week. 

#26 deliriouz

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  • Location: Dalkeith

Posted 07 July 2014 - 05:16 PM

Salt and heat works well to cure white spot but ppl should be aware of a few drawbacks. I have wiped out a whole colony of l201s when I failed to oxygenate the tank well enough after turning up the heat (no question about curing the white spot).  Also nuked carpets of blyxa and bolbitus ferns in planted tanks - not sure if its the heat or salt or both that kills those plants. 
Nowadays I stick to protozin and raising the temp to 28. Works well without the collateral damage. Also much cheaper when you consider the cost of what you could lose in your tanks.

Edited by deliriouz, 07 July 2014 - 11:14 PM.
Please don't quote post directly above

#27 Muttley


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Posted 25 September 2017 - 04:50 PM

Hey everyone, I'm after a bit of help.


Having noticed our Black Corydoras have gotten a few white spots and are starting to scratch against things. The Bristlenose pleco's and the Rummy nose tetra's seem fine and we can't see any evidence of white spot except on the black corys so far. So I did a bunch of research online seems me and the wife are still pretty new to all this and went to aqoutix (forgetting they're not open on mondays lol) and then drove back to vebas and chatted with the staff there. Other than jacking up the temperature in the tank to 28 degree's they also recommended using Aquasonic's Ichonex and Tri Sulphur tablets. All of this seems good but my concern is that the Ichonex has Copper Sulfate in it and apparently Corydoras don't react well to copper (the other ingredient is malachite green). Does anyone know if this will be a problem or is the dose of copper to small to matter? It's 0.6mg per mL of solution and treating a 240L tank the first day's dose is 30mL and 15 mL the 2nd and 3rd day.


Any help is greatly appreciated as we've got 16 of these beautiful black corys now including one female that has laid eggs twice now (two weeks ago but none of the eggs turned into fry). 



#28 malawiman85

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Posted 25 September 2017 - 05:22 PM

Temp to 30 and add an airstone for a week or two

#29 Bostave



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  • Location: South Guildford

Posted 25 September 2017 - 06:07 PM

Copper sulphate is the most effective treatment as it kills the protozoan in the gills and skin. It is not toxic at alkalinity over 100. I would advice use of agricultural lime to increase the alkalinity before using copper sulphate. Also the dosage for copper sulphate was 0.03 ppm from what I remember.
If the eggs don't hatch it might be that the males are shooting blanks. I had similar issues with corydora julii and otocinclus. You may need to get younger males into your breeding colony.

#30 Delapool


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Posted 29 September 2017 - 08:01 AM

Came across this from seachem which might be of interest. I think I have a plant toxicity level somewhere.

I've never used copper though (unless when I was a kid), only used heat and/or MG/formalin.

"There is more than a four-fold concentration gap between the minimal therapeutic dose (0.2 mg/L) and the toxic dose (0.8 mg/L)."


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