How Can I Increase Oxygen Levels?
#1
Posted 25 June 2016 - 09:19 PM
Is there a way of increasing oxygen levels in a tank without having to run an air stone or breaking the surface of the water with a wave maker etc.?
#4
Posted 25 June 2016 - 10:02 PM
Water change day is tomorrow
I'll measure the nitrate before I do water change
#6
Posted 26 June 2016 - 07:44 AM
#7
Posted 26 June 2016 - 10:36 PM
I had a hectic weekend and only did the water change tonight. Didn't think to test the water first, and because it's cool weather at the moment, the cold water from the tap made the temp drop from 26.2 degrees to 22.9 degrees Celsius. I did take the time to do a gravel vac of the front of the tank from left to right, sucking up heaps of gunk. I usually don't vacuum the gravel a lot in this tank, as I like to leave plenty of goodness for the plants to suck up. The tank is back up to 26 degrees, but I have a couple of very sad looking fish still gasping at the surface. I'm thinking it might be water quality. I'll do a test of the water tomorrow night if the fish don't look any better. If the water parameters turn out to be less than ideal, I'll up my water changes for a while.
#9
Posted 27 June 2016 - 06:29 AM
I'd strongly suggest though sticking to the pure bacterias rather than sludge busters as some sb's clag and hang around if application technique is in correct.
But I'd say try splosht,, it's extremely concentrated and only 2 teaspoons a week is enough to keep a 33000 liter breed room centrifugal sump nice, clean and free flowing,, it also stops a mulm build up in the 70 lineal odd meters of 40mm pvc that delivers water to all my tanks.
Once I stop using the product I start to get the odd manual valve blockages and my sumps seems to block up more and not quite make it to the end of the day for one screen and not to the end off the week either for my major mechanical parts.
After you start use, forget instructions, and try dissolving about half a teaspoon in a cup of water (which will turn tea color), then pour in front of filter pickup point.
And do this only after a water change to minimize wastage.
Try to remember that a Malawi Cichlid sitting in 24'c - 25'c will only need half as much food as a Malawi Cichlid Cichlid does sitting in 27'c. Why ?,,,, massive difference in metabolism speeds. You can literally halve your food costs by lowering temp,, but breeding will slow down.
Dosing your tank every second day with seachem prime will relieve your fish in the meantime, and highly likely minutes after you dose it you will see the fish relax and almost resume to normal.
Best to feed every second day for a fortnight now.
This is why I detest thicker substrates,, but if your doing the whole plant and fish balance thing, then it's best to test and slightly starve your fish to find the point at exactly where juuuuust enough food is fed.
#10
Posted 27 June 2016 - 06:44 AM
#11
Posted 27 June 2016 - 06:57 AM
Very well oxygenated water will re-enter the tank,,, but put the Tupperware container lid on, as the churning into open air will contribute to tank cooling in winter,,, the air that pumps from the device itself is using outside air to pump bubbles so there'll be enough oxygen transference,, and in summer will speed evaporation a little, without the lid.
#12
Posted 27 June 2016 - 09:24 AM
#13
Posted 27 June 2016 - 09:46 AM
#15
Posted 27 June 2016 - 11:20 AM
Ammonia and high co2 (low o2) would be my first thought as well.
Would be interesting on nitrite. In theory yes (I guess?) but I did look at this several years ago with a savage mini-cycle going on and the tap water here in midland was protecting the fish to some degree.
http://www.aces.edu/.../BrownBlood.pdf
Seachem safe will temporarily detoxify just about anything a water test can find with the only downside being a container lasts so long it cuts out one excuse for a fish shop visit.
I find it very weird with a planted tank as I do water changes and then promptly dose more ferts. Mulm build-up is great to improve CEC and I can't even see the gravel to gravel vac anymore anyways. The only thing I find where the fish really benefit is they must get a great varied diet of different plants (at least in mine they sadly do).
#16
Posted 27 June 2016 - 11:48 AM
It could be ammonia, nitrite, or nitrates. I havent cleaned the canister filters recently, so I dont think it would have been another nitrogen cycle in the tank. I might open one of the canister filters and see if it's a mini nitrate factory. I'm was under the impression that co2 doesnt affect oxygen levels in an aquarium? Either way, I'll have more of an idea once I get home tonight.
#17
Posted 27 June 2016 - 12:17 PM
#19
Posted 27 June 2016 - 01:34 PM
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