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Electrical Wiring Question


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16 replies to this topic

#1 Craig

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 05:57 PM

Hey All

Considering the purchase of these LED lights for an aquarium:

http://www.ebay.com....#ht_4103wt_1054

These are made to australian standards. However, as you can see in the pictures, they don't have a power cord attached. Is it possible to extend the power cord to ~2.5m in length? (I will be using a qualified electrician to do the job). What approximate cost would I be looking at to have this done to 4 of the LED units?

Electricians or other qualified people who would do the work, please dont hesitate to message me a quote (I can bring the lights to you).

Thanks for your help

Craig

#2 Gareth

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 06:12 PM

Hey mate, not trying to burst your bubble.
But those lights can be found cheaper on ebay, I have one which I picked up for less than $30.95. I know my one is only 10W but still very good.

http://www.ebay.com....984.m1439.l2649

I use it for a camping light off the back of my Prado. Good lights for the money u pay. Very bright too.
The one I bought had a car adapter fitted to it too.

#3 Craig

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 06:17 PM

Hi Gareth thanks for the response.

Im well aware that cheaper units are available. However I require a 50W unit for a 2.5' deep hi tech planted aquarium. It is also essential that the light is within 6000-7000K and ideally 3500+ lumens. This particular light matches these criteria. Whereas you link is far less than 1000 lumens

Im always willing to pay more for the right product.

Craig

#4 Riggers

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 07:22 PM

The simple answer is yes Craig you can, the cord on the end could be extended to any length you like as well as adding in a switch for easy on/off smile.gif good call on using a licensed sparky, better safe than sorry smile.gif

Cheers
Rigs smile.gif

#5 Neakit

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 11:05 PM

i Personally wouldn't be using this fitting, it doesn't have any cooling and while its not an issue when used for flooding an area with light it will become an issue with the usable light diminishing rapidly as the unit over heats over a fish tank.
If you want to get leds for a fish tank speak to vebas they carry a range that are economical as well as functional.

#6 Craig

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 11:12 PM

Hi Neakit
Why is this? I have friends using similar LED units with good success. The max. temperature is <65 degrees Celsius and can be touched when running.
So far I haven't heard any issues with running these LEDs, but I have messaged the seller to get their opinion for use over aquariums.

Cheers
Craig

#7 Neakit

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 11:46 PM

well if it is a 50w Led chip it wont be driven at 50w if you can touch it. Leds loose light as they over heat, I myself have 2 heat sinks with 25 3w cree Leds each, When they are driven at their recommended max current (1.5a) the heat sink will rather quickly get to an untouchable heat. To combat this issue i have a 140mm computer fan over each heat sink. Now i do realise there is a wattage difference in the 2 light fixtures but my panels are 152mm x 230mm. Also this unit is using a single chip which will concentrate the heat to one spot where as the panel im using its spread rather widely.

I spose im saying be careful, if you look at all the led units out there there arent many using high wattage leds (i know of only one and even then they say to only have them on for a short period of time)
Ive just done a little bit of research and it seems 10 cree Xpg cool white Leds will put out more lumens than one of these fittings. So that works out to 30w with the cree leds.


(Cree cool white bin R5)
http://www.cree.com/...ng/XLampXPG.pdf

Edited by Neakit, 05 May 2012 - 11:47 PM.


#8 Hypanheaven

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 12:15 PM

I had 2 70w units using Cree xp-g LEDs and it was only 2 foot deep tank and there wasn't enough light to hit the bottom (5x2x2), I ended up back to the halides, maybe if I had another unit it could of worked better, or maybe the lenses could have been better suited but, my halides blew them away for coverage and intensity, granted I had twice as much wattage, but the whole thing about LEDs it trying to save on
Power

#9 werdna

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 12:36 PM

There is always a possibility that your sparky opens the bacnk of the light and it is epoxy filled and cant get to the connections...

#10 Neakit

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 03:57 PM

Hypanheaven, Its recommended that its 120w per 2ft square (i run 150w over a 3'x1'6"x1'6" and the leds will penetrate more than 2 ft). The xpg leds would have been penetrating well but would have lacked the concentration cause you didn't get enough to cover the whole tank. In reality you would have needed 4 of the 70w leds to light a 5x2x2 properly to be compared to the hallides.

#11 Hypanheaven

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 06:25 PM

well that voids the point in changing in my case to save power


#12 Neakit

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 06:28 PM

realisticly 2ft deep would normally use 250w mh. So it would be a savings from 500w of hallides. The issue of leds is you need so many of them to cover a small area to avoid spotlighting and the disco effect if your using multiple colours.

#13 Craig

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 06:58 PM

Back on topic... Would love to hear from any sparkys that may be able to assist smile.gif

Craig

#14 Riggers

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 08:35 PM

QUOTE (werdna @ May 6 2012, 12:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
There is always a possibility that your sparky opens the bacnk of the light and it is epoxy filled and cant get to the connections...


Did you look at the pic's bro, they dont need the back to be opened to wire, these come with a short lead as the majority of people hardware to existing home wiring smile.gif


QUOTE (Neakit @ May 6 2012, 06:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
realisticly 2ft deep would normally use 250w mh.


250w for 2ft deep? Are you sure? Where are you getting your figures? I was running 70w Mh lamps on a 2ft deep tank with excellent penetration...

#15 werdna

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 08:49 PM

Yes, but personally I would prefer to open the back and have a 3m lead than have a join.
I assumed thats what Craig was asking, otherwise you may as well just put a plug on the end and use an extension cord.

If you are planning on just joining the wires, why not just get a plug fitted and use an extension cord? smile.gif

#16 Craig

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 08:56 PM


Another option that Im considering is to connect a switch to the exposed wires, then a longer cord from the opposite end of the switch.

I could put a plug and then use an extension cord, but that would be rather messy and unsightly, given that it would all be exposed when looking at the tank (the lights will be suspended from a DIY light stand that Im doing.

I appreciate all your ideas and suggestions smile.gif

Craig

#17 Hypanheaven

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 09:33 PM

far out my 150watsx2 =300 lit the entire room up and grew a forest,




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