Rovik

My old tank looks wicked, looks fantastic Jeff...Glad it's all worked out 

Ps: (I Can't view the video, It's on 'private')

Try as above, If worse comes to worse.....You can just take the head apart and get it from the other side.

For all Eheim pro 3 models, It's important for this reason to regularly lubricate the tap and values with an aquarium safe lubricant/silicone spray such as hydraslip. 

Sadly  ,  Due to time, cost and inconvenience its to move on my prized setup. Being a student It's hard to give this setup the attention it requires to be a fantastic display piece it once was. So here it is.

What is included:

The Tank:
 

5'x2'x32" (760L)

A custom aquarium Built by AQUOTIX.

12mm Glass all round (Includes Extra bracing and strapping)

Tooled Black Silicone all round (Perfect Straight Edges)

Includes Predrilled Holes for plumbing/drainage (See picture)

Back of tank Painted black. (Don't have to worry about a background slipping off)
Impeccable condition

RRP of $1500+

This is the kind of tank that last 20 years.

The Cabinet:

5x2

Well build and constructed. Holes Pre drilled for plumbing.

Satin Black Finnish

Chrome Knobs

Shelving.

Includes Edging and polystyrene. 

The Surround:

Sturdy Hardwood Jarrah.

Satin Black finish to match the cabinet.

Gravel:

150kg +

A beautiful Mixture of fine black and ADA Aquasoil Ideal for plant growth.

Results in a good 4 to 5 Inch gravel bed Ideal for larger rooted plants.

Looks great against the black cabinet.

Lights:

3x 125w HQL

Large black reflector housing.

Great penetration for viewing and Plant growth.

Cheap replacement globes.

Plumbing:

Everything to to plumb up 2 filters and a Drain. e.g. 2 Inlets, 2 Outlets and a drain.

Includes Quality top of the line, Hansen injection mold Flanges.

Taps/valves

Strainers

Bars

Risers 

Mics and accessory's:

Can throw in some water conditioner, A liter of API leaf zone (Plant fertilizer) 

An array of GH, KH buffers.

1L of Iron supplement

Gravel Cleaner

Hydor Inline heater if required.

Thanks guys, All a bit sad seeing my setup on the market, But it's for the best.

It's a genuinely quality setup, It's new owner will not be disappointed.

Feel free to flick me a PM if you have any questions, viewing is more than welcome.

Chasing $1500 (Negotiable - Feel free to make me an offer) 

Cheers.

To see the full build Thread: http://www.perthcich...ic=48424&page=2

Photos:

When the tank was in construction phase (Top brace was not installed at this point):

Congratulations to Ronny for being the overall winner of the comp for this series. 

Just recapping just a few of his fantastic shots:

Congratulations on the win and your $200 Cheque to a PCS Premium sponsor of your choice.

1st Place to: ICE
 Mangrove Jack

 

 
 
 
 
2nd Place: Bermont
  Motoro Stingray
 

 
 
 

Congratulations to our winners, you can pick up your prizes at the next club meeting.

1. Oxyeleotris lineolatus
 

 
 
2. Scatophagus argus
 

 
 
3. Labidochromis sp. "perlmutt"
 

 
 
4. Motoro Stingray
 

 
 
5. White RTC
 

 
 
6. Petenia Splendida
 

 
 
7. Mixed Tankbusters
 

 
8. Parachromis Managuensis
 

 
 
9. Cichla Monoculus
 

 
 
10. Mastacembelus erythrotaenia
 

 
 
11. Mangrove Jack
 

"God, So demanding...." hahaha 

Here are the entries guys: http://www.perthcich...showtopic=56862

Entries were a little slow this month hence the lateness, Had people asking for an extension.

Make sure your entry is there..I rushed through it.

Entries are closed and voting will be up tomorrow, Good luck !  

1. Oxyeleotris lineolatus

2. Scatophagus argus

3. Labidochromis sp. "perlmutt"

4. Motoro Stingray

5. White RTC

6. Petenia Splendida

7. Mixed Tankbusters

8. Parachromis Managuensis

9. Cichla Monoculus

10. Mastacembelus erythrotaenia

11. Mangrove Jack

Ronny's Just desperate to win..  ..Big cheque coming your way....

No, The topic was locked a while back. I've been away for while. Usually just pop on the site to check the committee section on my tablet.

We have a 3-way tie for second place, A committee member that has not entered the comp (And unaware of the entrants) will choose a photo ( Most likely chairman Daz). I'll post up results tonight If i can get an answer from the judge tonight.

Cheers Guys.

Depending on the volume and where the pond is situated you have a few options:

• For smaller ponds; Use large aquarium heaters, a few JAGER 300w with efficient coils are a good start.
• For larger ponds you can use a spa heater with a thermostat or custom made, large gauge winding/coils wired to a thermostat. 
• For even bigger applications of several thousand liters 20,000L+ A gas heater is the most economical option. 

Heating a outdoor pond is expensive, You can reduce your energy consumption via insulation around and on the bottom of the pond. I would also recommend covering the pond during cold nights with a material like corflute to keep the heat in.

Ps: Solar heating may also be an option but will require some custom fabrication and instrumentation with a thermostat and, to my knowledge is not available for a pond in a commercial kit.

Shrimps and plecos can carry different viral pathogens that can be deadly to our natural habitat. AQIS care more about them than cichlids and koi. 

Do you have quantitative evidence to back this up ?

Some pictures or a diagram of the holes/tank would be helpful...

There are various ways you can go about it, Depending where the holes are situated.

Are the hole on the bottom panel or side ?

Do you have space behind the tank and the wall or will it be pushed right up (Flush) against the wall ?

What pump (L/H flow rate) will you be using ?

What flow rate and turbulence is desirable for what you are keeping ?

How much do you want to spend ?

Do you have any other equipment that needs to be inline or plumbed into the system ? e.g. UV sterilizer, In-line heater ? 

All these factors determine what diameter pipe you want to use, what parts you use ect.

Plumbing is only something you want to do once, because its a pain in the ass to change once it's wet and even more so if something goes wrong...Burst pipe or some other failure. 

It is my belief, and that of many others within the aquarium trade that organic carbon supplements do not increase the rate of plant growth compared to physical CO2 injection. Many of these carbon supplements on the market are predominately glutaraldehyde, just a carbon rich compound.

The downside to glutaraldehyde it is only a substitute to the real thing, for plants to utilise the carbon in glutaraldehyde, many bonds must be broken because glutaraldehyde is a big molecule compared to a little tiny CO2 molecule. It requires the plant to expend energy it could otherwise use to increase its biomass to utilise this carbon source. Another negative is that glutaraldehyde decomposes in aquaria very quickly, meaning that it needs to be continuously dosed to be effective, Otherwise it disappears and is useless to the plants. This is obvious looking on the instructions on the bottle it's self, most brands will have a daily dose rate, instead of a once weekly dose like most other inorganic fertilisers (iron, trace Ect). The reason for this constant dosing is obvious, it disappears quickly.

Plants are on average, around about 47% carbon (dry weight) - carbon is a really important thing. You will find in a heavily planted aquarium that does not have CO2 injection is that your KH (carbonate hardness - CO3 2-) will slowly decrease over time. The reason for this is the plants consume the KH as an alternative source of carbon.

Carbon dioxide in its aqueous form is the most palatable form of carbon for plants, it's a nice and small molecule and is easily metabolised during the light independent reaction of photosynthesis. 

Nothing will supersede or be as effective in supplementing carbon as a well tuned pressurised CO2 system - supported with light, other nutrients, favourable environment and conditions.....maximum plant growth for your parameters can be reached. Quality CO2 equipment can be expensive and for most hobbyists, an investment most are not willing to make. But for us plant nerds, it's the beez knees

Glutaraldehyde and liquid carbon supplements are a poor man's CO2 - not as effective, but takes the "tinkering" factor out of it. Without a doubt it will increase your plant growth slightly and a worth while investment given how cheap these supplements are. As well as giving your plants a slight boost, they also work to deter algae due to the fact some of these products are mild antiseptics and work excellently to kill algae if spot dosed with a pipette or syringe at the recommended dose.
 

Liquid carbon supplements are a great value for money way of dosing that extra bit of carbon and are a step in the right direction to having a flourishing planted tank. However there is No substitute for the real thing if you want the most out of your plants, Not to say you cant still achieve very pleasing results with A non-CO2 set-up. For the majority, Anaesthetically pleasing results is all that matters.....

But for some, It's a case of "How far/fast can I push growth".   e.g. The aquarium becomes more of a test tube.

I am still curious however: If we have any crash hot plant experts, could someone define how plants process and metabolise organic carbon sources at a molecular level compared to traditional CO2 (g). Is this something that is only exhibited in true Aquatics or terrestrial plants as well ?

We took a one month long break from the photo comp due to holiday interruptions, But without hesitation let get back into it.

Here are the results and winners of the June Pc: Fish Behaviour 

1st Place: Sandgroper

2nd Place: Ronny

Congratulations to our winners, you can pick up your prizes at the next club meeting.

This months topic is Malawi Cichlids, Now accepting entries.