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PCS & Stuart M. Grant - Cichlid Preservation Fund - Details here


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#1 dazzabozza

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Posted 21 August 2012 - 11:59 PM

Hiya folks

Just moved house and no room for a fish shed so have decided to go all out setting up some new display tanks.

They're going into theatre room, 1 on each side facing off to each other.
















More pics and write-up to come smile.gif

#2 Anka

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 04:14 AM

Looks good!

Looking forward to updates smile.gif

How are you doing water changes? Are you worried about ruining your carpet with water?

#3 Peckoltia

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 07:28 AM

I like that aquascape a lot.

#4 Bowdy

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 07:29 AM

Looking sweet man Nice plumbing to Dazza smile.gif can't ruin your carpet with water if no water goes on the carpet Anka smile.gif smile.gif

#5 ice

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 08:42 AM

Looking awesome so far Dazza! What are those rocks? They look bloody great.

#6 Anka

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 09:10 AM

Hey daz, you might want to build some supports for the pipes. A lot of stress will be put on the cabinet/bottom of tank from the sand, rocks, water and suction caused by the inlet. The weight of the pipes and water in them will add to this stress.

You can get some wooden blocks and metal pipe holders from bunnings. Worth a thought at least.

Also, would it not be better to put the outflow on the inside of the inlet? That way the water cycles a bit more. Not a huge difference, but if it's not too late...

#7 Bowdy

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 09:27 AM

I personally wouldn't think the weight from the plumbing would cause any problem at all it's 25mm pipe about 5ft long is there a calculator to work out the volume ?

Also, would it not be better to put the outflow on the inside of the inlet? That way the water cycles a bit more. Not a huge difference, but if it's not too late

Inlet of what outlet of what? tank or canister ?? There do close together I can't see it really matters.

#8 COBRA 386

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 03:07 PM

Where did you get the cabinet and hood from ? . Looks fantastic.

#9 SamJohns

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 03:20 PM

Aquascaping looks mad man! Can't wait to see it with substrate and up and running! Great job!

#10 Jules

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 03:29 PM

HAHA the cat in the photo mad me laugh..... It looks like it thinks the tanks are gonna replace it.

that aquascape is gonna look amazing!!! i can see its potential already....
whats going in these set ups anyways huh.gif

Edited by Jules, 22 August 2012 - 03:30 PM.


#11 dazzabozza

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 05:26 PM

Cheers for all the comments smile.gif


QUOTE (Anka @ Aug 22 2012, 04:14 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
How are you doing water changes? Are you worried about ruining your carpet with water?
There's a drain at either end of the tank which share common plumbing within the cabinet. So at the moment the 1 canister draws from 2 spots. There are 2 other ball valve fittings, 1 for another canister and the other has a garden hose attachment allowing for drainage. I'll attempt to use this to top up the tank also as long as it doesn't blow back through the canisters (can always turn the valves OFF).


QUOTE (ice @ Aug 22 2012, 08:42 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Looking awesome so far Dazza! What are those rocks? They look bloody great.
Slate I'm pretty sure. Came out of one of AAA's displays.


QUOTE (Anka @ Aug 22 2012, 09:10 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hey daz, you might want to build some supports for the pipes. A lot of stress will be put on the cabinet/bottom of tank from the sand, rocks, water and suction caused by the inlet. The weight of the pipes and water in them will add to this stress.

Also, would it not be better to put the outflow on the inside of the inlet? That way the water cycles a bit more. Not a huge difference, but if it's not too late...
My main concern is the movement of the PVC when I'm twisting the ball valves coz they're super tight and I don't want to put stress on the joints. Will see if I can secure. Re: positioning of the inlet I had the same thought but it was easier to leave this way to allow for the common/shared drainage plumbing. I've added some elbows which allows me to direct the flow of the outlets away from the drain which helps. Will get some more pics.


QUOTE (Bowdy @ Aug 22 2012, 09:27 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Also, would it not be better to put the outflow on the inside of the inlet? That way the water cycles a bit more. Not a huge difference, but if it's not too late

Inlet of what outlet of what? tank or canister? ?? There do close together I can't see it really matters.
English Bowdy? LOL


QUOTE (FPV088 @ Aug 22 2012, 03:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Where did you get the cabinet and hood from ? . Looks fantastic.
Tanks, cabs and hoods all from Vebas. Very happy with the look and build quality. It's mango wood. Hoods are a custom order that I got to be double the height to give me more flexibility on lighting (less heat issues and better spread).


QUOTE (Jules @ Aug 22 2012, 03:29 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
whats going in these set ups anyways huh.gif
It'd make a sweet planted but I'm actually going tankbusters which was unplanned but I bought half the fish out of AAA's display. Mainly snook, scats, silver dollars etc.

#12 Anka

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 05:32 PM

Dazz you can get some pretty snazzy check valves from Aquotix that will suffice with regards to keeping new water out of the cannisters when doing water changes. Problem is they restrict flow.

I thought I'd have the same problem with turning my ball valves but as long as you don't let a woman do it (i.e. it doesn't get turned around the wrong way) and you hold it steady it is fine. A bit of lubricant also helps.

#13 dazzabozza

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 05:40 PM

Hey Anka

Don't think the check valves will help as the water is still flowing in the same direction. Might have to grab some pics or a diagram so I can demo. Basically the top-up uses the same pipework for the drains. I imagine it'll take the easier path and go straight into the tank rather than via the filter.

Daz

#14 Anka

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 06:47 PM

I'll take a photo of mine and will explain it to you

#15 Bowdy

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 07:15 PM

Your talkin about a non return valve anka?? It's just extra $$ when taps are easily turned on off.

#16 Anka

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 07:26 PM

On second thought, my set up only works with 2 filters.

When filling, hose is attached at P.

New water flows through M (as K is closed) and G (E is closed) and through F, and then into the tank.

I guess the check valve is pretty redundant in this design (as it was altered after its permanent installation)...

Soz for the diagram

F1 = filter 1 (secondary - hooked up to UPS)
C = chiller
UV = UV steriliser
CO2 = CO2 atomiser
F2 = filter 2 (primary)

X = ball valve
<| = check valve

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#17 Bowdy

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 07:31 PM

That's a lot of fancy pipe work smile.gif the ball valve is a tap for those who don't know.

#18 Anka

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 07:33 PM

If you wanted to be fancy you could hook everything up to solenoids and timers and have automatic water changes.

FYI - Filter 2 pumps the water out of the tank so it's pretty quick :3

#19 Bowdy

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 07:39 PM

Wouldn't be hard to hook up solenoids ether but i wouldn't trust them on my display. I fix/replace them at work id stick with an easy manual system smile.gif

#20 dazzabozza

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Posted 22 August 2012 - 07:41 PM

Too late in the day for my brain to process that diagram Anka lol




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