36 replies to this topic

[Anka]

300L 4ft tank
T5 lighting
Teco Chiller TC-5 (includes heating)
Dupla pH controlled CO2 dosing (with atomiser)
Eheim 2215 filter
9w PondOne UV sterilizer

On the intake for the filter, it separates into two pipes: 1) for the filter, 2) for the CO2 atomiser

I am soon going to install my chiller to the out line of the filter, as well as install a UV filter.

My question is, should the CO2 atomiser be on the out line or the in line? It was my dad's idea for some reason.

Also, can someone please recommend the sequence that the water should go through, i.e. filter, chiller/heater, UV then half through CO2 atomiser and half through out of filter.

Is there a way to measure the flow rate?

Edited by Anka, 01 January 2012 - 03:02 PM.

[Craig]

Why are you wanting a chiller? Not necessary for a planted tank at all. Put the money towards a better filter - Get a 2217 at the very least.

Why would you separate the intake into two separate pipes? Do you understand how the atomizer works? Just attach it to the outlet pipe of the canister filter.

[Anka]

Tank is upstairs where the air reaches 32 degrees for extended periods.

I had the money so bought it.

Can the atomizer just be put in line?

[Craig]

Yes it is made specifically to go inline

[Hypanheaven]

Chiller for planted is a complete waste really, plants love a bit of warmth. +1 for atomizer inline as that's where it's designed to be, Definantly a larger filter would have been good or maybe increase your lighting how many globes, what make and what kelvin rating ad wattage?

[Anka]

Isn't a planted tank with fish and shrimp meant to be around 26-28 (I know it depends on the fish, but it is roughly in this range?)? Fish and shrimp subjected to temps 32 and above for extended periods can't be good surely.

There are 4 globes. I think it is 200W but not sure - will have to check on the box later.

[Westie]

chiller is a good idea if you're keeping shrimp

[sydad]

I would not be in the least concerned about an air temp that reached 32 celsius. My fish room exceeds this on most summer days, but I do ensure that the night temp drops to at least 25 celsius. The important thing is the water temp over an extended period. Have you checked this?

Syd.

[Hypanheaven]

There are 4 globes. I think it is 200W but not sure - will have to check on the box later.

T5s come in 24, 39 & 54usually for aquariums, shop fit globes Can be different, yours being a 4ft it would have 54watts ea so you have enough lighting, what are you dosing for ferts and what substrate did you use?

[Kleinz]

I would not be in the least concerned about an air temp that reached 32 celsius. My fish room exceeds this on most summer days, but I do ensure that the night temp drops to at least 25 celsius. The important thing is the water temp over an extended period. Have you checked this?

Syd.

I want to hear more about this. The water temp won't be far behind, surely? When you say drops to at least 25, do you mean 25 at most?

[Anka]

Co2 and lights come on for 8 hrs a day. Co2 turns off of ph falls under 7

Using seachem flourish fertilizer once a week

[Rovik]

Lets see Some pictures!

[Anka]

looks no good atm - going to be redoing it with native plants and fish.

Will start up a journal then

[bigjohnnofish]

I want to hear more about this. The water temp won't be far behind, surely? When you say drops to at least 25, do you mean 25 at most?

water takes a lot of energy to heat up... and if your tank is a decent size 4x2x2 or bigger it takes time to heat up.... its the accumulated temp of many days that usually catches people out...
night time temp is 25 degrees it gives sufficient time for your water to cool down also... tanks will cool down quicker to air temp then what they take to heat up to air temp....
hence if your night time temp is high then your tank doesnt cool back down completely before being re-heated the next day..... so your tank gradually gets warmer and warmer each day...

im guessing syd runs his aircon at night with thermostat set to 25 degrees in his fish room....

[sydad]

I want to hear more about this. The water temp won't be far behind, surely? When you say drops to at least 25, do you mean 25 at most?

Hi Kleinz,

Hmm, yes reads oddly. In fact I prefer the night air temp in the room to go to below 23 celsius. This gives the water temp a chance to drop, though I find it lags by usually 2 to 3 degrees by the morning (higher that is). During the day the water temp stays a few degrees below the air temp unless we have a series of very hot days, and even then the max water temp is usually a couple of degrees below the air. I keep the room, which has too many clear roof panels (you'd think I'd have made sure I had this correct on my third fish-room, but no, I had to be a smart-ass), open during the day, then close it at night if and when it has cooled sufficiently. On rare occasions I use the RC air-conditioner to help reduce the temp, but running costs being what they are I try to avoid this scenario, and restrict the use of the air-con to trying to moderate temps if , as happens occasionally, I go away for a few days.

Does this make sense as explained, or have I muddied the water, so to speak?

Syd.

[Anka]

is it possible to get something that can measure the flow rate of a pipe?

[dazzabozza]

Hey Anka

Do you mean maximum possible flow rate or the pipe or current flow rate (depending on size of pump)?


Daz

[Anka]

As in I want to get a filter designed for a bigger tank than mine, but I want to restrict the flow rate so that the water movement isn't too strong.

Or does that now matter?

I got a eheim 2215 for a ~330L tank, but people are saying I should have got a 2217

[Bowdy]

hi mate a 2217 wont be to much frow for a 330L tank its only 1000lph you will be lucky to notice much flow at all

[Anka]

hi bowdy,

do you rkn I should get the 2217? I've already spent a lot of money on my tank lol