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QA breeding practices

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#41 Terry

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Posted 18 April 2016 - 07:21 AM

I breed mainly South American cichlids, leaving the parents to raise the fry usually results in small numbers. Most are substrate spawners that is they lay on a rock a plant leaf or in a cave and sometimes annoyingly on the glass,  remove the eggs and place them in a 10 ltr tank with water from the parents tank and an airstone to create a gentle current over the eggs put a few drops of methylene blue into the water, this helps to prevent fungus. Any fungus cure will do.

If you need to scrape them off the glass use a sharp blade, place the eggs in a net and suspend it on the edge of the tank over the bubble stream. The eggs will hatch in about 3 days, remove the spawning medium then syphon off any fungused eggs and add an aged sponge filter to the tank, if possible suspend the filter in the water that is make sure it does not touch the sides or bottom of the tank.If it isn't suspended fry will work their way in between the tank and the glass and become stuck and die. Every day syphon off all the scum on the bottom of the tank with an airline tube fitted with a 20 cm rigid piece on one end, this makes it easier to aim the end of the line at rubbish, replace the removed water with water from the parents tank. A couple of Ramshorn snails added at this stage helps to keep the bottom clean, when the fry are free swimming a couple of 3cm bristlenose will do a better job.

The fry should be free swimming at 7 days, do not feed the fry until then and remove uneaten food daily, I find that newly hatched brine shrimp is the best food for fry.I use decapsulated brine shrimp because the fry will eat any unhatched eggs. Start your brine shrimp hatchery when the fry wrigglers are 5 days old so that they are ready to feed out as soon as the fry are off the bottom. Don't be put off by the talk of brine shrimp, dry foods are accepted by most species. I don't bother with packaged fry food I put the food that the parents eat into a coffee grinder and feed the powder to the fry for about 6 to 8 weeks this makes introduction to pellets or flake food easier. Daily water changes are a must for the first 4 weeks then the fry can be moved to a larger tank.



#42 Chopstick_mike

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Posted 18 April 2016 - 11:26 AM

I breed mainly South American cichlids, leaving the parents to raise the fry usually results in small numbers. Most are substrate spawners that is they lay on a rock a plant leaf or in a cave and sometimes annoyingly on the glass,  remove the eggs and place them in a 10 ltr tank with water from the parents tank and an airstone to create a gentle current over the eggs put a few drops of methylene blue into the water, this helps to prevent fungus. Any fungus cure will do.
If you need to scrape them off the glass use a sharp blade, place the eggs in a net and suspend it on the edge of the tank over the bubble stream. The eggs will hatch in about 3 days, remove the spawning medium then syphon off any fungused eggs and add an aged sponge filter to the tank, if possible suspend the filter in the water that is make sure it does not touch the sides or bottom of the tank.If it isn't suspended fry will work their way in between the tank and the glass and become stuck and die. Every day syphon off all the scum on the bottom of the tank with an airline tube fitted with a 20 cm rigid piece on one end, this makes it easier to aim the end of the line at rubbish, replace the removed water with water from the parents tank. A couple of Ramshorn snails added at this stage helps to keep the bottom clean, when the fry are free swimming a couple of 3cm bristlenose will do a better job.
The fry should be free swimming at 7 days, do not feed the fry until then and remove uneaten food daily, I find that newly hatched brine shrimp is the best food for fry.I use decapsulated brine shrimp because the fry will eat any unhatched eggs. Start your brine shrimp hatchery when the fry wrigglers are 5 days old so that they are ready to feed out as soon as the fry are off the bottom. Don't be put off by the talk of brine shrimp, dry foods are accepted by most species. I don't bother with packaged fry food I put the food that the parents eat into a coffee grinder and feed the powder to the fry for about 6 to 8 weeks this makes introduction to pellets or flake food easier. Daily water changes are a must for the first 4 weeks then the fry can be moved to a larger tank.

yes I wondering how often to do WC wasn't sure if there was such a thing as to many , do you recommend 30% or more??

#43 Terry

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Posted 18 April 2016 - 08:47 PM

I do about 20 % daily, there wouldn't be any harm doing 30% providing the water is from the parents tank and the same temp.The aim is to keep the bottom clean especially for the first week ,in the wild the parents choose where to put the fry we have them lying in their own waste, so cleanliness is the most important thing to look out for. Don't forget to keep topping the parents tank up with aged water, it helps with the water quality for the fry.


Edited by Terry, 18 April 2016 - 08:49 PM.


#44 Fox

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Posted 19 April 2016 - 04:28 PM

Great to see your still on the forum T Bone.. Always appreciate the input from you. Hope you and Rhonda are well.



#45 Rachelwright

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Posted 05 May 2016 - 09:00 AM

Hi;
I have recently joined the pcs and have had cichlid tanks for years I have just started getting into breeding them any advice or tips would be really appreciated as I would like to produce high quality African cichlids and keep their species going. So any tips or advice I will be forever thankful :)

Rach

#46 Androo

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Posted 05 May 2016 - 05:47 PM

Hi Rachel, welcome to the club.

I think the general consensus is, linestone, sand and weekly water changes

1m:4f minimum
Higher ratio if an agressive breed.

Which breeds are you looking at

#47 Rachelwright

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Posted 05 May 2016 - 10:29 PM

Hi androo,
I currently have
Dragonbloods
Jacobfriebergi
Borleyi
Iceberg electric blue
Electric blue
Marble peacock
tramitichromis intermedius
Electric yellows
Flamebacks

But the ones that are ready for breeding now are the Dragonbloods the jacobfriebergi

#48 Chopstick_mike

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Posted 06 May 2016 - 12:40 PM

Yes what androo said Also try not to fiddle with scape too much you wanna disrupt them little as possible I've found

#49 Rachelwright

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Posted 06 May 2016 - 02:51 PM

Awesome thanks mike :)

#50 humbug

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 09:53 AM

I’m coming to this discussion late, but thought I might be able to contribute a couple of ideas that may challenge people’s thinking a little.
 

1 - The quest for “new blood”
 

This is something that concerns me a lot – the recent preoccupation with chasing “new blood lines”. Don’t get me wrong – I’m NOT saying that in-breeding isn’t something that needs to be considered when making breeding decisions, but I feel the "issue" is significantly overplayed and needs to be approached in a balanced way.
 

The situation with in-breeding in fish just isn’t the same as it is with mammals. If you are keen, there are some really good research papers available that look at the extent of in-breeding that occurs in wild populations of fish. There is one on Tanganyikan multies which shows how closely related wild breeding groups are using DNA testing. Similar studies have been done on other cichlid species.  Reality is that in-breeding in wild populations is significant. There is also heaps of data that shows that “out-breeding depression” is every bit as much of a problem in fish populations as “in-breeding depression” is. Much of that research has been done by the aquaculture industry. Google the topic – some interesting, if somewhat heavy, reading.  But it’s not just research papers - most experienced breeders will have stories of the odd outcomes they’ve had from out-crosses they’ve tried.
 

I’ve seen firsthand the situation with some fish in the wild in Lake Malawi.  Many of the species there are found in very small numbers in very isolated places. To see a species which is found only on one tiny island or reef (small enough to be able to swim around in a few minutes) , and is isolated to a band of a few metres in depth only, and you realise just how few fish of that species exist, and just how small the genetic diversity of the wild population is.
 

Examples can be found in our hobby, too, of species which arrived in Australia decades ago, and were only ever brought here in one or two importations containing very few fish.  All of the stock in this country now trace back to that handful of fish, but where those fish have been kept in the hands of dedicated hobbyists, they are still producing fabulous quality offspring, despite no introductions of “new blood” after many, many generations.
 

One MAJOR problem with looking for “new” lines is that every time you bring fish in from another source you increase the likelihood of introducing a hybrid. It only takes one crook fish introduced into your stock to completely destroy pure lines. This is what we are finding with Malawis – yes people say they have species AAA or BBB, but look closely and all have been corrupted at some time in the past – often by that quest for “new blood”.  And more often than not, when people chase “new lines”, it can be shown that they all come from the same source one or two generations back anyway.
 

Even without considering the ever present risk of introducing hybrids - the fish you are producing will generally only be as good as the poorer of their parents. It becomes a balancing act – if all you can obtain is poorer quality fish in chasing “new lines”, then you aren’t necessarily doing the right thing by your fish. Let’s be honest, with the rise of the “get rich quick” breeders in the hobby in recent years, it’s hard to find ANY decent stock of many species, let alone good quality, unrelated stock from multiple sources. 
 

I reiterate - I’m not saying don’t chase new lines. I’m saying it needs to be done with thought, research and real caution. You need to take a balanced approach. If you have top quality fish which are producing good quality fry, you need to be really careful about introducing problems into your group.

 

 

2 - Colony Size
 

I personally think that the way we keep our fish has a far more significant impact on the outcomes from our breeding than “in-breeding depression”.

In the wild there is natural selection. Many fry are spawned. There is competition for food, so the larger, stronger fry out compete the weaker ones, and only the strong survive. There is pressure from predators. The slower, dumber fish get wiped out, while the fast, wily ones survive.  From those that survive to adulthood, there is then competition for mates. Only the best males get to breed with the fussy females. OK – a simplistic description – but you get the idea.
 

In the aquarium we provide a false environment. If we do our job well most of the fry we breed survive to adulthood. People buy these fish in twos and threes – the good strong ones AND the runts. If there is any “selection” by the buyer, it’s only from what’s left in the tank at the time of sale, but usually it’s no more than “lucky-dip” – first fish in the net. This means that EVERY fish in the brood becomes a potential breeding prospect. With a single male in a tank with one or two females there is no “natural selection”. The one male breeds with whatever is available in the way of females.
 

From all the reading I’ve done, I’ve worked out my approach. I breed Malawis, primarily haps and mbuna.  This approach isn’t necessarily appropriate for all cichlid species, but its worked well for me.
 

For a species I intend to breed, I buy larger numbers of juvis and grow them up together. I’m striving to establish a decent sized colony with multiple males if it’s at all possible. I’ll source stock from multiple sources if good stuff is available, but my PRIMARY focus is on getting the best quality I possibly can. If I can only source good fish from one source, that’s what I’ll work with.
 

As the fish mature, I remove any fish that don’t come up to scratch. I then let the fish decide who breeds and who doesn’t. Watching a colony, dominant males get all of the action, and you find that there are usually a few females which breed far more often than others. Some females never breed.

Since using this approach I’m finding that deformed fry are pretty well non-existent.  The only suspect fry I’m getting these days are from a few older pairs / trios I have, or can be traced back to an environmental impact while fry were young.
 

I’m certain some people will disagree with what I’m saying. Just putting my thoughts out there in case it helps others to perhaps think a little deeper.


Edited by humbug, 18 May 2016 - 09:56 AM.


#51 Delapool

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 11:44 AM

Interesting read, thank-you. I'm not a fish breeder at all but was wondering on any thoughts where people say the fish were so much stronger 20 years ago. Could that tie in with point 2 or just old blokes talking so to speak?

Edited by Delapool, 18 May 2016 - 11:44 AM.


#52 humbug

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 12:31 PM

We first kept and bred cichlids in the early/mid 1980’s.  I’d say that perhaps some of the poorly bred, “mass produced” cheapies, raised in less than ideal conditions and on poor diets may have issues, but generally I wouldn’t say that the fish of years gone by were any stronger than the decent quality fish that are available today.  We have a hell of a lot better access to information, products etc today though!!!  I have articles written in cichlid club magazines in the 1980’s which show just how badly we were groping in the dark back then!!!  I’ll see if I can dig some out and start another thread on those. 
 

A good friend who’s opinion I respect highly suggested to me the other day that there seem to be a number of new pathogens floating around in the hobby which weren’t about years ago.  Logically it makes sense – with far greater imports in recent years from much more diverse regions of the world, and decreasing requirements on quarantining of fish over time, its more than likely to result in the introduction of nasties we haven’t experienced in the hobby before.
 

One observation I do have – the mouth brooding cichlids in Australia today have in general FAR poorer parenting ability then they had in previous times.  Difficulty getting fish to breed, fertility issues, inability of fish to hold to full term.  I put this firmly down to the modern practice of stripping of females.  It’s crept into the hobby here from the USA.  Its frowned upon in many European countries. 
 

It really struck home to me when I got some imported blue dolphins which are more than likely F1s - the offspring of wild caught fish.  The maternal instincts in those females is amazing!!!!  It brought back memories of what fascinated me when I first started breeding cichlids decades ago, but I’d not seen in dolphins here for many years.
 

I suppose it’s a sign of the times, and an indication of the state of the hobby today.  Surely one of the primary reasons for hobbyists to keep cichlids is the amazing advanced breeding strategies of these fish??  Surely stripping females removes one of the prime reasons for keeping these fish – watching these incredible behaviours in our own homes?  Doesn’t matter how often I see it, watching a female hap releasing her fry, doting over them, collecting food and feeding it to her swarm of young, and then gathering them up again at the first sign of danger . . . . what can possibly beat that????? 



#53 dicky7

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 01:21 PM

Thankyou Kathy .. extremely interesting reading

 

Much appreciated

 

Cheers



#54 Chopstick_mike

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 07:06 PM

Very interesting




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