L066's DEADED!
#21
Posted 11 August 2007 - 04:09 PM
Whichever way you go keep the treatment up for 7 - 10 days to be on the safe side.
#22
Posted 11 August 2007 - 11:20 PM
When I asked 'do you have anything else at hand to use against white spot' what I was looking for was products that contained mainly acriflavine to assist in treatment along side the salt. I find that 90% of people who have spent a lot of money on a fish want some form of 'potion or lotion' to feel as though they are doing something to prevent their investment from dying. Unfortunately people cannot 'see' salt working but colourful products that make water green or blue can be 'seen'.
Madasa is very right in pointing out that there is very little else you need but salt and clean, warm water - and that goes for most diseases and related problems. So human nature aside, madasa is right.
PS test your water...please!
Mr_docfish
#23
Posted 11 August 2007 - 11:48 PM
the only other med i had used was melafix so when the meth blue turned my tank BLUE i was like WTF!!!!
now i know better
and a lot poorer. not to worry.
#24
Posted 13 August 2007 - 09:56 PM
Sorry I did not mean you directly, I was just talking in general terms to explain why (even though, I too, agree with the salt only method) I still went down the alternative treatment road to which madasa pointed out, in his opinion, was not necessary.
In hindsight though, you wont be making the same mistake in the future and I hope others reading this thread will learn too (the comments made on the forums are for your benefit and hopefully others too).
BTW how are they looking, better or worse?
Mr_docfish
#25
Posted 14 August 2007 - 07:38 AM
Sorry I did not mean you directly, I was just talking in general terms to explain why (even though, I too, agree with the salt only method) I still went down the alternative treatment road to which madasa pointed out, in his opinion, was not necessary.
In hindsight though, you wont be making the same mistake in the future and I hope others reading this thread will learn too (the comments made on the forums are for your benefit and hopefully others too).
BTW how are they looking, better or worse?
Mr_docfish
yeah, ive learnt my lesson. thanks for the help
theyre looking much better now. ive added tri-sulfer. i lost the 2 x 168's over the weekend by they were affected the worst and were covered in whitespot.
but yeah, looks to be on the mend now.
thanks for the help everyone
#26
Posted 14 August 2007 - 07:42 AM
Salt and heat are an age old treatment. Remember that whitespot can only be killed in the free swimming stage (about day 4). Therefore maintain treatment for 7 - 10 days as a precaution.
Good tank husbandry and quarantining of new fish should prevent whitespot. Increase your water changes by 10%.
Fish should not die from whitespot - EVER! Keep salt at hand always.
I am anal about water quality and dont think I have had a case of white spot ever in my more serious fishkeeping and breeding years.
#27
Posted 14 August 2007 - 07:47 AM
Salt and heat are an age old treatment. Remember that whitespot can only be killed in the free swimming stage (about day 4). Therefore maintain treatment for 7 - 10 days as a precaution.
Good tank husbandry and quarantining of new fish should prevent whitespot. Increase your water changes by 10%.
Fish should not die from whitespot - EVER! Keep salt at hand always.
I am anal about water quality and dont think I have had a case of white spot ever in my more serious fishkeeping and breeding years.
roger. i did a water change on monday arvo and am going to do another on wednesday or thursday. should i add more tri-sulfer?
cheers
im off to bed, damn night shift
#28 Guest_Snowy_*
Posted 09 September 2007 - 11:49 AM
8) hard one this, I have had 2 tank disasters this year. Both whitespot cases and both involved dead catfish.
As most of us know medication on scaleless fish is a bit hit and miss. Earlier in the year I imported some stock, ran out of tanks, (yes I know naughty) so i mixed some loaches with my cat tank...BIG MISTAKE.
When I encounter white spot, I usually turn up the heat to between 28-30 degrees, BUT because of the cats, I couldn't as the heat would destoy them. I turned to Meds. I used a dose of 25% to a 30% water change and with in 3 days I started to lose loaches (63 in the end), and 2 x pimolodus ornatus , nice size, 2 x pictus, 1 x hoplo, and a few others.
What survived the tank crash....5 x Orange Spot Bn's, 2 x Hoplo's, 3 x bumble bee cats.
In a similar instance earlier in the year I lost 3 x L177 Gold Nuggett Plecos...that hurt majorly.... 38 baby peps @ 4 cm, 10 clown plecos (l104's) and a partridgee in a pear tree! that crash cost me $4K!
some of the poor casualties of this crash...
I have since thrown away my white spot med NEVER to be used again. I now have a UV filter on all my tanks.
The fish exhibited signs of 'burning', raw skin, not being able to move, and like a rigour mortis behaviour sets in, even though they are still alive....Maybe Noddy can try and explain this....I believe its the copper.
Anyways I would be sticking to Madasa's advice and only use meds if is absolutely necessary
Jm 2 cents worth Snowy :twisted:
#29
Posted 09 September 2007 - 12:27 PM
#30 Guest_Snowy_*
Posted 09 September 2007 - 01:02 PM
:wink: Agreed Shane, what's the cost of a UV versus a $4K tank crash....sure did learn the hard way lol :twisted:
#31
Posted 09 September 2007 - 01:14 PM
Now im more carefull and use uv,s one every thing well now i only have 2 tanks one for fish one for food and the food.
Ive been going on about uv,s for around 12 months now for a good reason belive it or not.
I bet snowy your loving what the uv,s do the the water aswell i think it would help with the awsome pic,s you take.
I think it help me in the early days when i had a decent camera that made up for me having no skill and no patience.
The camera i have now its not as good with pic,s and we are taking over 100 shots to get to get a few very average shots :roll:
#32 Guest_Snowy_*
Posted 09 September 2007 - 01:51 PM
For those who don't already know UV's help kill most water bourne parasites, and algaes, which in turn helps prolong your water quality. :twisted:
On my 6x2x2's with Tropheus I run an Aqua one 2450UV (1100 litres p/h), along with a CF2400 (2400 litres p/h), and either 2 x internal Eheim 2252 (1200 litres p/h) and or a pond power head (for turn over, airation and mainly polishing duties....(3600 litres p/h min. up to 4900 litres p/h).
The UV in the CF2450UV is big enough to do the job, but small enough to enable some algae to grow on my rocks (good for T's). :twisted:
#33
Posted 09 September 2007 - 03:30 PM
Does anyone know how much would a Aqua one 2450UV (1100 litres p/h) cost?
Thanks
#34
Posted 09 September 2007 - 05:07 PM
For those who don't already know UV's help kill most water bourne parasites, and algaes, which in turn helps prolong your water quality. :twisted:
On my 6x2x2's with Tropheus I run an Aqua one 2450UV (1100 litres p/h), along with a CF2400 (2400 litres p/h), and either 2 x internal Eheim 2252 (1200 litres p/h) and or a pond power head (for turn over, airation and mainly polishing duties....(3600 litres p/h min. up to 4900 litres p/h).
The UV in the CF2450UV is big enough to do the job, but small enough to enable some algae to grow on my rocks (good for T's). :twisted:
nice and some people recon i was over the top with 10 to 14 times an hour with uv,s
#35
Posted 09 September 2007 - 09:41 PM
HTH
Aimee
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