Sump Design And Filter Media
#1
Posted 23 October 2016 - 01:57 PM
Also really keen to see everyone's freshwater sump designs
#2
Posted 24 October 2016 - 07:12 AM
And I clean my media every 4 to 6 months
- mashjprime likes this
#3
Posted 24 October 2016 - 12:13 PM
This is the sump I designed for my 6x2. The middle section is meant to be for isolation or fry growout.
It has about 15L of Marine Pure (and some other similar looking but bigger spherical media), coarse black sponge and Jap Mat.
Attached Files
- Poncho and mashjprime like this
#4
Posted 24 October 2016 - 12:25 PM
#5
Posted 24 October 2016 - 12:36 PM
if you have one in the sump, you don't need one in the main tank.
I designed that one so it could be used to put fish in if needed and the baffles are set in a way that it won't overflow when power is cut off as there is no check valve for the return/sump inlet line.
Edited by Ronny, 24 October 2016 - 12:36 PM.
#6
Posted 24 October 2016 - 07:34 PM
My sump. Nice and simple but super effective. Whole roll of jap matting cut to size and 50L of K media tumbling! Two heater in the return chamber with the return pump.
Has changed a little bit since the pic was taken. I have now propped the matting up off the glass with small cuts of PVC to allow for extra flow through the matting.
I have 2, 6x2x2.5's that I am about to set up one with flow into the next on a two tier rack then into a 216l drum filled with k1 media, inlet will have a mechanical filtration attached. Filtration is over complicated these days.
Edited by Peckoltia, 25 October 2016 - 10:21 AM.
- Mattia likes this
#7
Posted 02 November 2016 - 06:22 AM
#8
Posted 02 November 2016 - 11:30 AM
Thanks mate. Yeah I agree that usually it is safer to have the heaters in the first chamber. In my case there are two inlets from the display into the sump (both of the pipes on the right side of the picture), the one on the far right is the active inlet into the sump (40mm) the other is a redundant inlet (also 40mm) and has an upward facing elbow in the tank that sits about ~4mm above the water line in the tank in the event that the 'active' sump inlet becomes blocked the water will rise slightly in the display and have another path to the sump. Hope this makes sense. So the chances of the sump running dry is completely eliminated, so it doesn't really matter what chamber my heaters are in.
Edited by Peckoltia, 02 November 2016 - 11:33 AM.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users