28 replies to this topic

[kassysimon]

Hi guys.

I have just set up pressurised CO2 in my 10ft tank and i have made this DIY reactor http://www.plantedta...o2-reactor.html

It seems to be working since there is no visible bubbles coming out of the spray bars but with 1000l of water i require quite a large amount of CO2 to get the 28ppm im aiming for.

The only difference i have made to my design is that i have inserted the CO2 tube in the return line prior to the reactor rather than directly into the reactor and i have the reactor running directly inline rather than having a bend on either end as shown in the images.

My concern is that i could be getting more out of my CO2 injection as i have so much CO2 going through my bubble counter that i cant count the number of bubbles.

What else can i do to make sure i get more of my CO2 absorbed?

Keep in mind that im also keeping all of my hardware out of the tank other than the filter in and outlets.

Would two CO2 cylinders being inserted into two separate reactors be better or do you think i am already achieving good absorption.

The CO2 drop checkers are showing light to moderately dark green which is good indication. KH is at 6.

Ill soon be getting a PH probe and solenoid so it will be more accurate then.

Any ideas for a more effective reactor?

Thanks.

[Hypanheaven]

get the up aqua inline co2 atomiser, i used there largest one (inline with my canister) on my 550L tank and it had the ability to do way more, i had my regulator/needle valve turned right down.

[Craig]

I just ordered the Sera Active 1000 reactor from fleabay for a 950L tank.

Have heard great reviews and they are supposedly better than the UP atomizers too

[kassysimon]

thanks guys.

The problem with both of those units is that their inlet diameter is 20mm where the FX5 inlets are 25mm and i dont want to reduce the flow.

Do you think that it will be an issue reducing the flow when using one of those reactors?

[Bowdy]

reducing the piping down from 25-20 for a short part of the pipe wont noticebly stem the flow if at all,

[Rovik]

Hey Simon, nice chatting to you the other day...


Because you have a large aquarium or any tank for that matter, your aim is to have 80-99% of your CO2 in solution (dissolved) that you put in the tank.Therefore very little wastage which saves you money because you not filling your cylinder as often.However CO2 is cheap, but every bit helps.

Its hard reach optimal CO2 efficacy (Dispensing exactly the right amount/ no excess) without the use of a pH controller.
The controller (If calibrated correctly) will dispense exactly enough CO2 to drop your pH to your desired level of 6.8 to obtain a CO2 level of appropriately 28ppm...With a KH of 6".

And once you have the controller, you will no longer Depend on the use of the bubble counter.
Set and forget.

Once you have your controller, you want to optimise your diffusers...

A traditional diffuser consists of membrane, usually ceramic that the C02 is forced through, by back pressure.
Like a fine Airstone this breaks the CO2 into tiny little bubbles that slowly dissolve into the water.
One of the cheapest methods, this is usually good enough for most small to mid-sized tanks.

For larger tanks, the best diffusion method is the "spin" the gas into solution...Like the SERA diffusers.
Although a DIY combination of both might do the trick.....(I will post up a simple diagram tomorrow)

______________

I would recommend the larger 6L ? bottle for a tank of that size, for practical reasons.

If 1 diffuser is not enough....Add more.
A diffuser can only handle so much CO2 before it starts to spit out larger bubbles ect...and becomes inefficient.
You can split your regulator with this:

http://www.aquariumo.../3-way-co2-tap/


This way you can have 1-3 diffusers/reactors.


When I first started using CO2, I had the gas come out way too fast with the controller.
Instead of having a Slow controlled release, the tank got quick burst, and being a In-line atomizer...
Some large bubbles did not have time to dissolve. This was solved easily by tinkering with the pressure so it came out slowly, now I only get a very fine mist.


Once again, Hope this helps
Rovik.

Edited by Rovik, 29 April 2012 - 10:06 PM.

[kassysimon]

Thanks Rovik.

I followed the link and I have one question about the discription.

It says "Either use a bubble counter to count BPS for each individual tank

or run each through an inline magnetic valve to control the CO2 in each tank."

Does that mean I don't need to worry about using a bubble counter if a have a PH probe? Just let the probe do everything and not worry about counting bubbles and just use the bubble counter as a visual guide?

[Craig]

You will still need a bubble counter

[Rovik]

I have a bubble counter...But it doesn't have water in it....
So it doesn't really count anything.

Once you have your CO2 fine tuned:

Meaning you have your CO2 coming out at the desired rate that your diffuser/reactor can handle, there really is no need for it given that your CO2 is being controlled by your pH controller.

What the bubble counter does do Is provide a visual guide so you can tune the flow the get optimal diffusion.
Not to much gas, but not to little.

So a bubble counter is a good thing to have.

_____________

The 3-way splitter can split your line into 3 from the hosing coming directly out of the regulator.
The CO2 regardless, will be regulated by your pH controller controlling you magnetic valve.

You said you where regulating the CO2 on a timer until a controller was purchased.
So you must have a magnetic valve ?
Other wise how will the controller turn off your CO2 ?

The beauty of this is you can have 2 or 3 diffusers running so you don't have all the gas going to 1 diffuser which may not be able to handle the load.

You can split the load for better efficiency and the best part is you can have a diffuser for each filter so you get a much better spread of CO2.
Which is quite important in such a large tank.

Ill try get a diagram up tonight, I have been snowed in with homework lately.

Rovik

Edited by Rovik, 30 April 2012 - 06:38 PM.

[kassysimon]

Thanks Rovik.

I do have a magnetic valve, it an UP Aqua valve and reactor and the Profilux is on its way which also has a magnetic valve, so i will either have a spare or sell the UP Aqua on the site.

Im assuming the reactor is working correctly as there is zero bubbles emerging from the spray bar. None what so ever. Have i assumed correctly? With no bubbles i think its defusing pretty well. I just have nothis to compare it with, hence the trepidation.

I like the idea if having the bubble counter there as a visual aid to be sure the CO2 is still flowing but i definitely can not count the bubbles. At a guess, id say its about 20BPS.

[waruna]

Hi, i recently came up with this setup for a 700l planted tank. After researching and from my previous tank setup I found this to be the most effective and simple way to inject Co2 in to a system. This particular fittings are for a 25mm pvc pipe, and i recommend using a 5000l inline pump, Eheim is my number one pick. Basically i planned to inject the Co2 before passing through the pump so it mixes it well.

I bought all the parts for this from Couplers: 8/2 Carson Road, Malaga. WA 6090. (08) 9248 9994



HTH and good luck.

[kassysimon]

Hi.

That is essentially what i have also done, though mine is running directly into my return pipework after the filter and into my reactor and then into the tank rather than into a pump.

Do you think this is as efficient?

[waruna]

I can't really say if it's efficient or not without seeing the tank.. My suggestion is to keep it simple, as in not to have too many bends/obstacles and have the Co2 enriched water pass through freely and at full intended speed.

Do you inject Co2 in to the blue canister or is it injected through the T connector on right?

[kassysimon]

into the T piece, the canister is the reactor, modeled from here


http://www.plantedta...o2-reactor.html

[waruna]

So you use a filter instead an inline pump? What type of filter and flow rate? Also how are you distributing this water back in to the tank? At the surface?

[Bowdy]

the link you gave us he has the co2 going into the house filter, whats its purpose in your system if your co2 isnt going into it? im just curious

[kassysimon]

I use two Fluval FXV's.

and it returns via a spray bar.

Pics below show the setup from left to right.


This is just a trial setup hence the messy wires. The layout will remain the same but i am due to move in 6-8 weeks so it will be tidied up once in its new location.

The reason i ask about the efficiency is that this is my first planted tank. I want to make sure the co2 is dissolving properly. I think it is as there is no bubbles coming out of the spray bar.

the link you gave us he has the co2 going into the house filter, whats its purpose in your system if your co2 isnt going into it? im just curious

The reactor is just there to mix the water (that my impression anyways) the co2 is still being added but into the water prior to the reactor.

So its already in the water table and it gets mixed in the reactor.

Thats how reactors work isnt it?

Regardless of where the co2 goes in, so long as it mixed and dissolved????

Geez...i hope i got it right.

[dazzabozza]

I've never sen heaters used like that before... gives a new meaning to "in-line"

What keeps it from leaking?

[kassysimon]

I watertight fitting called a cord grip.

I want to keep everything out of the tank and the spray bars as invisible as possible, hence the inline heaters and co2 ijection.....the spray bars are another story though....very hard to hide.

http://www.heyco.com...ight_Cordgrips/

[waruna]

I want to make sure the co2 is dissolving properly. I think it is as there is no bubbles coming out of the spray bar.

I'd try to get a mist of Co2 sprayed in to the tank, i believe this is much better for the plants, like most things in this hobby some agree and some doesn't I suggest you read up on this. Canister filters are designed in specific ways, i'd be hesitant to alter the flow rate. From what i can see both filter outlet hoses are connected to one (of the same size pvc pipe) and then returned back in to the tank, if this is correct this will slow down the filter flow rate, i'm not sure this is the best way to do this.

If you have a look at the link you posted with the original reactor there is a white pvc pipe in the middle, this is basically to "split" the flow and in return mix the Co2.. I don't think this is the most effective way.. I used a similar reactor with a small pump inside which was supposed to mix the Co2 even better, this reduced the flow rate considerably, so i pulled it all out. In my opinion good flow rate is much more important than the reactor itself. To me it was common sense to have good flow rate and then use an inline pump to mix it..

I only inject Co2 when the lights are on. To explain this process a bit more i turn the Co2 on with a timer an hour and fifteen mins before the lights come on, my starting PH is 7.5 and the targeted range is 6.45 and 6.55. By the time the lights are on my Co2 levels are at it's peak.

There's lots of ways to do this, do some research

Good luck.