34 replies to this topic

[Riggers]

Poor fella, I'm no catfish expert but it's looks like it was pretty bloated.. maybe try just feeding zucchini for a while it seems to be really good for there digestion along with some wood to chew on
Let us know how ya go
Rigs

[sandgroper]

assuming a de-nitrator isnt being used steve ??? or she doesnt do daily water changes.... not always a sign of nitrification process breaking down...

Even a de-nitrator won't give you a zero reading. I've never had a nitrate reading lower than 5, how ever my tanks are heavily stocked. I do 50% weekly or 10 days and i use a de- nitrate filter.

[Rovik]

Quick Tip:

With the API Nitrate Test kit, be sure to shake both bottles, especially bottle #2 for at least 30 seconds if not a minute.
This just, allows the reagents in bottle #2 to mix.

Once added your reagents to your test sample shake the bottle for 30 seconds and wait 5mins for the test to mature.

If not shaken properly, this test can read 20ppm for water that has 80ppm ++ nitrate and be wildly inaccurate.

[Neakit]

api has been proven to be wildly inacurate to start off with so i would treat it as a guide.

[sandgroper]

api has been proven to be wildly inacurate to start off with so i would treat it as a guide.

So then what do you use . I've used Sera, got that stupid shovel spoon for the powder, plus it's another step to do. I've used the test strips, didn't trust them the colour chart is to hard to compare and now i use the API test which i find easy as. When ever i see a fish shop testing for people they use API. So what do people use for testing their water out there in fish keeping land, look forward to your responses. Steve

[dazzabozza]

Neakit doesn't use test kits.... he's got Chuck Norris

APi test kit user here. Strongly agree with what has been said about making sure the nitrate #2 bottle is shaken well (min 30 secs) as well as the tube itself (1min).

Only gripe I have with them is the test result shades are too similar and change depending whether you rest the tube against the card or not. Resting against (over the white area) is the correct method apparently.


Daz

[Mr_docfish]

even though the colours are similar in the mid range - all you need to worry about is if it is yellow, orange or red..... if it is red - do a water change... if it is like a vial of shiraz, do a bigger water change..... the actual ppm or mg/l is of no real issue - unless you keep plants.... then spend a couple of $100 for a LaMotte test kit... I have a PO4, CO2, K and Fe - my next one is a NO3.... when funds permit.... meanwhile Ill keep using my API kit....

[bigjohnnofish]

Even a de-nitrator won't give you a zero reading. I've never had a nitrate reading lower than 5, how ever my tanks are heavily stocked. I do 50% weekly or 10 days and i use a de- nitrate filter.

i have a few tanks that get daily 30% water change.... no nitrate to be found! bring a test kit steve..... i dare you!!!!

a few fish i have found dont tolerate any nitrate to spawn in.... buts that all secret squirrell !!!!

[sandgroper]

Not saying i don't believe you Johnno if i had expensive fish i'd worship the water they swam in to but most people only do weekly water changes at best, my self included. So 5 min 40 max is my target. I don't have the time to do a water change every time a fish has a shit. cheers Steve

[bigjohnnofish]

[Sarahhhhh]

Rovik, thanks for your help but according to the instructions taht came with the test kit, you're supposed to shake the tube for at least a minute

I followed what the people said on the below thread and that's how I started getting nitrate readings.
http://www.reefsanct...e-test-kit.html

Just an update on my tank - my beautiful betta started looking really lethargic and his scales are raised so I think he must have dropsy. I've put him in a breeding trap but he just keeps coming up to the surface for some air and then collapsing back down on the bottom. Is it a coincidence that my two favorites died/are about to die, or could I have some sort of bad bacteria in my tank?

[Rovik]

API shaking method: Gently tilt the tubes backwards and forwards.
My shaking method: crazily shake test tube as fast as you can. (PS: I have rubber stopper, not the factory plastic cap)



If in doubt, refer to the instructions:

[Sarahhhhh]

Oh sorry, mine says 1 min

Oh sorry, mine says 1 min

[Rovik]

Oh sorry, mine says 1 min

They all say 1 minute (As easily readable to the test card above)....I wasn't trying to be augmentative.
I guess I shake the test tube for a shorter time than recommended but, faster and vigorously...So I guess it balances out...Not that it matters to me, because I have to add nitrates to my tanks.


Anyways:

A fishes death can be categorised in One or more of 3 general areas, these are:


1.Biological/Water Quality factors:

The main ones include (but not limited too) :

High ammonia, nitrites and nitrates.
Sudden drop or rise in pH contributing and including osmosic shock.
and so on....


2. Environmental factors:

The main ones include (but not limited too) :

Temperature. Sudden drop or change either way on the scale.
Chemicals used in or around the tank, overdoses.
Pollutants: Windex,Mortein/bug killer, Aerosol propellants used in or around the tank. (Most likely not uses IN the aquarium.)
CO2 levels.
Dissolved Oxygen.

3.Disease & sickness:

The main groups (but not limited too) :

Bacterial infection.
Protozoan infection.
Fungal diseases.
Parasitic Disorders.
Viral Disorders.
And countless other individual fish diseases....


What We know:

First of all, you 20L aquarium is quite small, and being a small water volume, will easily surcome to water quality changes and therefore is not really ideal for any sensitive fish which include things like catfish, loaches and scale-less fishes, although it can be done correctly with out issues as your Bristlenose are doing fine and are relatively small.

Because the fish was still fine, prior leaving for work and was living happily for a month + in your tank makes me suspect an environmental/Disease factor of some sort.
BigjohnOFish is completely right in saying "peppermints only really tend to succumb to bloat when water conditions arent spot on".

You mentioned your Fighting fish was acting lethargic.
Have a close look at the fish, can you see any parasites or anything different, An em-flamed "Buttocks", spots or any worms hanging out...anything...anything at all ?
Its clear something is upsetting him, but what ?

In the meantime, until you figure out what is wrong, I suggest than you continue frequent SMALL (Say <25%) water changes, Re-test your water quality and write it down on a table and see if there is any noticeable changes in all parameters. Only feed in small amounts, Perhaps only every second day as this will reduce fish waste if indeed it is the root problem, although unlikely as you have tested these.

Question: Did you use the tap water conditioner before or after the peppy had died ? And if before, at what dose rate...Tap water condition is many time more concentrated than Stress Coat.

But I think It is unlikely that you overdosed the fish with EDTA/Sodium penta-Sulfate (Water conditioner), because you other fish are fine.

Perhaps it was a dud fish..Who knows.
I would take up BigjohnOFishes kind offer and see if it goes better this time round...
All we can do is try.

________________________

Hope All goes well and this helps.
Rovik.

[Sarahhhhh]

Thanks for your post Rovik.

I followed the API Tap Water Conditioner instructions exactly (I'm very cautious about adding chemicals in so I made sure I did it right). I can't remember what the dose rate is right now but I definitely didn't OD them

Unfortunately Rainbow (my betta) passed away last night His scales were like a "pinecone" and he was going up to the surface for air and then just falling back down and hitting the bottom. I put an air pump in to see if that helped him but it didn't

I've tested my water and everything is still fine, and my two bn's are swimming around like normal.