Urgent! Help Please. White Fuzzy Fungus On Fish Food
#1
Posted 31 March 2012 - 07:44 AM
Type of fish: Blue Ram
Symptoms: Really Weak and not moving much even when getting scooped up
Other tank mates: All Blue Ram
Tank size / capacity: 98L
Type of Food fed: Wardley's Cichlid Floating Pellets
Feeding frequency/amount: Once a day, 10 pellets
Substrate: Aqua Soil (Black)
Type of filtration: Ermm the ones that goes on the cover of the aquarium and goes through 2 sponge, Cheramic thingy and Charcoal. (Sorry i am kinda new in this)
Frequency of filter cleans: Weekly(New aquarium 1st clean yesterday)
Frequency and % volume of water changes: Yesterday 50% and today 20%
Last water change: Today
PH: 2 days ago before the 2 water change was 6.5. Now it's 7.5 (pH spike? fish didn't like it?)
KH: Errr no idea how to get this
GH: Same with this too... sorry.
Nitrite: Need to bring it to the shops
Nitrate: Need to bring it to the shops
Ammonia: Need to bring it to the shops
Phosphate: Need to bring it to the shops
Water temp: 30"C
Medications used recently to date: API Stress Coat + (Added yesterday) Is this consider as medication?.
Bristle Nose catfish added into the tank yesterday hoping that it would clean up the uneaten fish food. Other Blue Ram seems fine just my Big Female Blue Ram. Plants is growing like mad too. Oh! i put 2ml of API CO2 Booster everyday too. Filter is 24hours on. Lights get turned on 10 hours a day. Never had the problem a week ago when i was only using 20W T5 fluorescent light. Changed the light to 40W, 3 days ago and the food started to be Fuzzy with fungus. Not sure if it is the light?. Please help me get rid of this fungus and save my female Blue Ram....
#2
Posted 31 March 2012 - 10:21 AM
#3
Posted 31 March 2012 - 01:12 PM
#4
Posted 31 March 2012 - 01:24 PM
Only ever clean your filter with tank water and never over clean it. Go to Aquotix today if you can and get it tested.
#5
Posted 31 March 2012 - 02:14 PM
Let us know how you go Kent
#6
Posted 31 March 2012 - 02:19 PM
2012_03_31_13.18.47.jpg 696.52KB 22 downloads
Let us know how you go Kent
When you say a good quality test kit? Are you referring to a test kit for pH? Ammonia? or something else?.
Edited by Kent84, 31 March 2012 - 02:20 PM.
#7
Posted 31 March 2012 - 02:31 PM
#8
Posted 31 March 2012 - 03:10 PM
#9
Posted 31 March 2012 - 03:41 PM
You are over feeding, fungus is nothing, it's natural and doesn't harm fish (it's not parasitic fish fungus).
Like already mentioned clean filter in tank water using a bucket, if you don't do this you will remain a constant fish murderer.
Everyone has different ideas that has worked for them, don't merge pieces of advice together, try one at a time.
This way will get you back on track, don't water change or clean filters for a month and a half, buy seachem prime and dose as the instructions say then double the dose.
The prime will detoxify the toxins but the toxins will remain for the beneficial bacteria in your filters to cycle and establish.
Water changes all the time will set you back every time prolonging this saga.
Vebas or Aqoutix has seachem prime on their shelves all the time.
Don't even worry about test kits or the water out your tap, straight water from your tap is fine for just about every fish you see in the shops.
All you need is patience and correct basic knowledge.
#10
Posted 01 April 2012 - 01:34 AM
I have to disagree with this statement, I wouldn't be putting any of my fish into water that hadn't been adequately conditioned first..
#11
Posted 01 April 2012 - 02:26 AM
Let us know how you go Kent
Seacem prime is different from API Stress Coat+ ?. With the test kit, will this one do?
http://www.ebay.com....=item3cbc0da9ef
Edited by Kent84, 01 April 2012 - 02:29 AM.
#12
Posted 01 April 2012 - 07:47 AM
48,000 liters is what my system holds, the whole lot straight out tap water. Everything breeds in it, and I mean everything. Gold sevrum, German rams, Orangehead Tapajo, Jaguars, Uaru, all egg laying tangs, all mouth brooding tangs and all malawis, all my bristle nose varieties breeding like made, also 50 tumblers are running in this water and everything hatches. Fish don't breed unless they are happy and requirements are sufficient.
It's to easy to pick up a book and qoute from it or even follow it because it says so. Continual error and trial trumps all. What must be understood is that domesticated fish have adapted through continual breeding resulting in adaptation and even preferring our tap water as is, chlorine isn't even a problem, a third new water in a change is all that's needed without to much change. Discus are breeding in 7.6 ph very easily, the farms in Malaysia, Singapore and areas alike are breeding in 7.5ph.
I run a display tank of 2800 liters with a amazing mixed specie array from all over the world origin, and the books will show water requirements for 6.2 - 8.5 requirements, you guessed it, all straight out tap water, so crammed with fish I water change everyday largely, if there was chlorine that effected fish the water would be at high levels at that water change frequency, but no.
If you don't want to believe me, so be it, but what I'm doing is through trial and experience, I'm 37 and fish keeping since 10 years old, I don't like to see fish keeping explained that it's harder than what it really is.
This is the reason for this long explanation.
#13
Posted 01 April 2012 - 10:00 AM
http://www.ebay.com....=item3cbc0da9ef
Dude why look on eBay when you have Aquotix just 2 min away.
http://www.aquariumo...aster-test-kit/
There cheaper after your member discount.
#14
Posted 01 April 2012 - 10:09 AM
Buccal that is 1 huge tank 48k litre!!!. Thanks for sharing your method of breeding the fishes. It's always good to know that you can do what your doing and makes things easier. Much appreciated.
Edited by Bowdy, 01 April 2012 - 10:24 AM.
Removed quote. Bowdy
#15
Posted 01 April 2012 - 12:43 PM
No quoting from books here, like you mate I've been keeping/breeding fish for around 15 years so everything I post is based on my experience. If tap water works for you that's great but I haven't seen too many fish that do well in straight tap water..... I don't think getting a test kit is over complicating things, for someone new to the hobby it's a great way to learn about tank levels
#16
Posted 02 April 2012 - 12:06 AM
48,000 liters is what my system holds, the whole lot straight out tap water. Everything breeds in it, and I mean everything. Gold sevrum, German rams, Orangehead Tapajo, Jaguars, Uaru, all egg laying tangs, all mouth brooding tangs and all malawis, all my bristle nose varieties breeding like made, also 50 tumblers are running in this water and everything hatches. Fish don't breed unless they are happy and requirements are sufficient.
It's to easy to pick up a book and qoute from it or even follow it because it says so. Continual error and trial trumps all. What must be understood is that domesticated fish have adapted through continual breeding resulting in adaptation and even preferring our tap water as is, chlorine isn't even a problem, a third new water in a change is all that's needed without to much change. Discus are breeding in 7.6 ph very easily, the farms in Malaysia, Singapore and areas alike are breeding in 7.5ph.
I run a display tank of 2800 liters with a amazing mixed specie array from all over the world origin, and the books will show water requirements for 6.2 - 8.5 requirements, you guessed it, all straight out tap water, so crammed with fish I water change everyday largely, if there was chlorine that effected fish the water would be at high levels at that water change frequency, but no.
If you don't want to believe me, so be it, but what I'm doing is through trial and experience, I'm 37 and fish keeping since 10 years old, I don't like to see fish keeping explained that it's harder than what it really is.
This is the reason for this long explanation.
unfortunately everybodys tap water isnt the same as yours.... depending on your area will determine your majority water source..... being in 2 rocks most of your water will be bore water and not having any industry to seap toxic chemicals into the ground water will prob make your tap water acceptable to not using water conditioner
my 2 cents worth.... should always use water conditioner.....
#17
Posted 02 April 2012 - 03:49 AM
my 2 cents worth.... should always use water conditioner.....
Edited by Buccal, 02 April 2012 - 04:01 AM.
#18
Posted 02 April 2012 - 09:15 AM
So many times I see this same argument going around. "I use staight tap water" vs "I always condition".
I believe that a large established system with high levels of both biological matter and bacteria can handle chlorine during 20 to 30% water changes quite easily. Also healthy happy fish in such a system will barely notice the chlorine as it goes by after the change. Thus someone who has a 42k litre system would find dosing onerous and is unlikely to see benefit anyway.
However a new tank setup which has barely had time to start cycling and has a much reduced bioload is far less able to handle chlorine. The chlorine does not have as high a level of organic matter to oxidise so hangs around longer, the fish are more delicate and ammonia levels are higher leading to more toxic chloramines forming. I would recommend conditioning for every new setup for something like three to six months minimum. Even better is aging the water as well for three days or so.
Furthermore modifying other water parameters such as hardness Ph etc is best left to specialist keepers of fish with desired parameters way out the norm. Any inexperienced fish keeper is unlikely to benefit from such modifications unless the local tap water is *way* off spec which in Perth pretty well never happens. The difficulty of dosing for Ph and hardness accurately and consistently removes the minimal benefit for any inexperienced keeper. You're far better off adjusting your fish to your local tap water. That's what most of the shops do anyways, except specialist shops keeping a wide range of tangs that expect most of their customers to raise hardness and thus do so themselves.
If you regard yourself as capable of handling dosing to vary Ph and hardness consistently and accurately to improve conditions for tangs etc then there's nothing at all wrong with that, but it surely isn't for first tank owners.
Thus I would say to any first time tank owner: You have no reason whatever to take samples of your water to the shop. You don't want to be dosing anything except chlorine conditioner anyway so what will you find out? That your tank is not fully cycled? You already know that because you cleaned your two week old filter in tap water. So stop feeding your fish, every scrap you add turns to toxic ammonia. Feed a tiny amount every few days until they start looking ravenous and eat everything, then ramp up to a slightly less tiny amount. Until your filter has cycled you simply can't afford the luxury of feeding anywhere the normal amount. Fish will simply die, starting with the weakest.
And 'the normal amount' for fish in the wild is of course a fraction of what most people feed in tanks. People can afford to drastically overfeed fish because they change tank water frequently. If you want a low maintenance system simply feed a quarter or less than your fish seem to need/want.
Oh yeah... and wtf you doing up at 4am dude, I'm guessing changing 10000 litres of water lol.
#19
Posted 02 April 2012 - 10:06 AM
Ok now i got another problem. Since Stress Coat plus won't remove Ammonia so i was thinking to switch it to seachem prime. Can someone please guide me through this please. Do i do a 50% or 100% water change to remove the Stress Coat before i can put the Prime?. Thanks in advance!.
Edited by Kent84, 02 April 2012 - 10:28 AM.
#20
Posted 02 April 2012 - 04:20 PM
If you stop feeding you won't have to change water as often as less ammonia will be produced.
If you test for ammonia all you will find out is that you have ammonia, and it will test positive whether or not Prime or Ammolock have reacted with it to reduce its toxicity.
Too much water changing will probably not help the whole cycling process overly much either.
Best thing would be to borrow a cycled filter from someone who has a spare and run it in parallel for 6 weeks. Good luck with that :>
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