hi ppl!
just wondering how the hell i hatch these brine-shrimp eggs?
i got them a while ago but they have never hatched and id tried twice.
thanks if u can supply info in doing so
lee
p.s. if anyone has any adults then i will buy them! Edited by: Lee Hodge at: 4/17/03 8:04:05 pm
Hatching brine-shrimp eggs???
Started by Lee Hodge, Apr 18 2003 04:02 AM
10 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 18 April 2003 - 04:02 AM
#2
Posted 18 April 2003 - 05:14 AM
Are u useing saltwater???
#3
Posted 18 April 2003 - 05:25 AM
I keep mine in a pond (actually a plastic container) outside and just "harvest" some when I need them.
Brett
Brett
#4
Posted 18 April 2003 - 06:29 AM
i meant like the conditions....
water, how oxygenated, how much salt etc
???
lee
water, how oxygenated, how much salt etc
???
lee
#5
Posted 18 April 2003 - 04:52 PM
You can expect a 80% hatch rate if your water is 10% more saltier than standard saltwater gravity and the water temp is 27 degrees.
You can expect 10% hatch rate at winters room temp and standard salt water.
Also check your eggs. Sometimes stores stock these eggs for years and if they get any moisture in them they are useless.
Also you will need green water to feed them if you expect them to grow above 4 days.
You can expect 10% hatch rate at winters room temp and standard salt water.
Also check your eggs. Sometimes stores stock these eggs for years and if they get any moisture in them they are useless.
Also you will need green water to feed them if you expect them to grow above 4 days.
#6
Posted 18 April 2003 - 04:56 PM
Yeah and you need to keep the water moving or other wise the eggs settle and dont hatch. Running a airline is a definate requirement.
But I have found that heat plays the best role in the percentage of hatched eggs.
Also using a proper marine salt increases hatch rates.
But I have found that heat plays the best role in the percentage of hatched eggs.
Also using a proper marine salt increases hatch rates.
#7
Posted 18 April 2003 - 04:56 PM
i think i will try just buying some brineshrimp and letting them breed!
lol
it should be easier, cause i dont want to put a heater in there
lee
lol
it should be easier, cause i dont want to put a heater in there
lee
#8
Posted 18 April 2003 - 05:34 PM
Lee,
With cysts you get what you pay for. The more expensive the better the hatch. That said its not always the most economical.
The best way to hatch them is to hydrate them for around 1 hour in freshwater. Then strip the hard outer shell with chlorine. The time is dependent on strength of chlorine. Standard bleach 30-40sec. Then tip them out onto a fine mesh 60-80um (0.06-0.08mm). Wash them with freshwater to remove all the chlorine. Then wash the decapsulated cysts into the hatching cone. An upside down 2 or 3l drink bottle will meet most needs. Best hatching as already has been said occurs at 27-29oC after 24 hours. Hatching times are extended at lower temperatures out to 36 hours. Don't go longer than this as you will have a very very low hatch rate.
Once the nauplii are hatched seperate the cysts and shrimp using light. Harvest onto a 100um mesh net. Feed straight away. Or if desired growout to what ever size you want. The feeding of the nauplii starts at instar 2 around 12-24 hours after hatching at 27oC. The nutrition of the nauplii 2+ is then determined by their feed. You can on grow at lower temperatures it just takes them a longer time to reach adult size. Feed green water or infrusia. You can also use yeast. A combination of both works best.
Hope that helps. If you want more info let me know.
Adam
With cysts you get what you pay for. The more expensive the better the hatch. That said its not always the most economical.
The best way to hatch them is to hydrate them for around 1 hour in freshwater. Then strip the hard outer shell with chlorine. The time is dependent on strength of chlorine. Standard bleach 30-40sec. Then tip them out onto a fine mesh 60-80um (0.06-0.08mm). Wash them with freshwater to remove all the chlorine. Then wash the decapsulated cysts into the hatching cone. An upside down 2 or 3l drink bottle will meet most needs. Best hatching as already has been said occurs at 27-29oC after 24 hours. Hatching times are extended at lower temperatures out to 36 hours. Don't go longer than this as you will have a very very low hatch rate.
Once the nauplii are hatched seperate the cysts and shrimp using light. Harvest onto a 100um mesh net. Feed straight away. Or if desired growout to what ever size you want. The feeding of the nauplii starts at instar 2 around 12-24 hours after hatching at 27oC. The nutrition of the nauplii 2+ is then determined by their feed. You can on grow at lower temperatures it just takes them a longer time to reach adult size. Feed green water or infrusia. You can also use yeast. A combination of both works best.
Hope that helps. If you want more info let me know.
Adam
#9
Posted 18 April 2003 - 05:47 PM
thanks alot ppl!
all of your info has gave me ways to hatch them!
thanks and i will try it soon!
appreciated
lee
all of your info has gave me ways to hatch them!
thanks and i will try it soon!
appreciated
lee
#10
Posted 22 April 2003 - 03:19 AM
Hi Vincent,
Looks that post could be a good one to keep re hatching brine shrimp eggs . . rgds Tim
Looks that post could be a good one to keep re hatching brine shrimp eggs . . rgds Tim
#11
Posted 22 April 2003 - 03:51 AM
Hi Lee,
Here is more detailed info about the "pond" method.
Brine Shrimps in Low Tech “Ponds”
Hatching brine shrimps is not difficult but to maintain a continuous supply is very time consuming. A supply that could be harvested when required has a lot of appeal. I have successfully maintained such a “pond”, in reality a plastic storage box, for the last six months.
The recipe for the salt mix - 6 lb pool salt, 1 lb Epson salt, 7 ozs Baking soda (sodium bicarb) and 20 g Phosphotren plant food to every 8 gallons (4 buckets) of water. Sorry about the non metric units.
Place in a sunny area, preferable covered to keep contaminants out and wait for the algae to start growing. Then seed with either live shrimp or eggs. The brine shrimp do need to be fed and rely on suspended particles in the water. When the water has become clear enough to see the bottom of the container I add yeast (sprinkled on the surface), others suggest spirulina powder works better.
To harvest I scoop a cup full or two from the brightest corner (most babies will be there) and strain through two sieves. One large size to remove the adults (these are returned to the pond to continue breeding) and the other very fine to collect even the newly hatched brine shrimp. These are rinsed in fresh water and then fed to the fish.
My “pond” has continued to produce except in mid winter and the last couple of very hot weeks.
Hope it helps
Brett
Here is more detailed info about the "pond" method.
Brine Shrimps in Low Tech “Ponds”
Hatching brine shrimps is not difficult but to maintain a continuous supply is very time consuming. A supply that could be harvested when required has a lot of appeal. I have successfully maintained such a “pond”, in reality a plastic storage box, for the last six months.
The recipe for the salt mix - 6 lb pool salt, 1 lb Epson salt, 7 ozs Baking soda (sodium bicarb) and 20 g Phosphotren plant food to every 8 gallons (4 buckets) of water. Sorry about the non metric units.
Place in a sunny area, preferable covered to keep contaminants out and wait for the algae to start growing. Then seed with either live shrimp or eggs. The brine shrimp do need to be fed and rely on suspended particles in the water. When the water has become clear enough to see the bottom of the container I add yeast (sprinkled on the surface), others suggest spirulina powder works better.
To harvest I scoop a cup full or two from the brightest corner (most babies will be there) and strain through two sieves. One large size to remove the adults (these are returned to the pond to continue breeding) and the other very fine to collect even the newly hatched brine shrimp. These are rinsed in fresh water and then fed to the fish.
My “pond” has continued to produce except in mid winter and the last couple of very hot weeks.
Hope it helps
Brett
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