53 replies to this topic

[Chopstick_mike]

So do you recommend seachem buffers over bi carb and Epsom salts to raise kh and gh?

[Buccal]

.

Edited by Buccal, 19 April 2016 - 02:15 PM.

[Westie]

I've never given buffers much thought, apart from when I've been trying to get the most out of my co2 systems. Will definitely revisit buffers. I just happen to have some Seachem buffers that are new, and I've never even looked at them. Thanks for the tip

[sydad]

High nitrates from lack of water changes will stunt fry growth and greatly retard rest of growth cycle and become exceptionally suseptable to waisting.
It also sends different parts of the body and internal organs will all have abnormal growth speeds to one another (out of sequence).
These effects can range from drastic to very minimal.

Common isn't there anyone here to spill some knowledge as well ?
I hope the physical club meetings are livelier than this.....

 

Sorry to come in a little late on this topic. Interesting observation from Buccal re nitrates, but not really quite accurate, inasmuch as nitrate levels per se do not, and cannot in isolation, have quite the effect attributed to them. It would be more accurate to regard nitrate levels as an indicator of water quality. Bear in mind that nitrate  increases principally by the metabolism of nitrogenous food components. It is important to recognise that there are many other substances also resulting from metabolic processes. These include hormones and other growth factors, and the quantities produced are directly proportional to stocking levels, In the absence of water changes all these "pollutants" increase in quantity. The non-nitrate component can be regarded as dissolved organic carbon, and this, often bioactive material is the real culprit in affecting the growth rate and pattern. This material is difficult to quantify for the aquarist; impossible actually for most.

 

Since nitrate fortunately increases proportionately to this organic carbon, we have an approximation of the likely amount of total pollutants present, and so an indication of the effects of water changes. Put simply, if the nitrate levels are decreased by water changes, so are all other undesirables. Unfortunately the use of so-called denitrators, while removing nitrate by anaerobic reduction, does not necessarily remove a corresponding proportion of dissolved organic carbon: in fact this tends to increase, and in my experience, growing fry are adversely affected in aquaria where denitrators are used to minimise water changes.

 

Syd.

[Buccal]

.

Edited by Buccal, 19 April 2016 - 02:15 PM.
edited to make it a bit friendlier

[Terry]

I was about to add some thoughts on selecting breeding stock but this thread has turned to crap.

 

Don't let the b....... get you down Syd.

 

Cheers Terry

[Westie]

I'm happy to clean up this thread and delete some posts to put it back on track if that will help encourage you to add your knowledge to this thread.

 

Edit: some posts edited, others deleted. 

 

Terry, I look forward to reading your post

 

Thanks

Edited by Jason82, 16 April 2016 - 10:17 PM.
edited thread

[sydad]

.

And mate,,, don't even bother replying to this.
But still hope to see your posts just as per usual, except for starting them out with making me look like I'm 2 cents short of a dollar
. .

 

Wow, a bit tetchy Buccal! I will maker a brief reply despite your order.

 

I do not  intend to "try to prove my knowledge over you". If it comes across this way, it is entirely without intention, and I apologise for my clumsiness in allowing this to happen. I am a victim of my profession, and as a scientist (more particularly as a sometime science teacher), I tend to automatically present facts as i know them.

 

Just as a matter of interest, you are the ONLY person who chooses to accuse me with "tech-ing it all up", and i do not understand what you mean by your contention that "only a few people with an already low level of knowledge will understand". This just does not make sense.

 

Cheers,

 

Syd.

[Buccal]

.

Edited by Buccal, 19 April 2016 - 02:16 PM.

[Androo]

There is nothing on these forums i dislike more than long posts. What loses interest faster than technical jargen? Posts that go for days that i can sum up in a few sentences. Lads, when banter begins (posts that are tit for tat) lets keep our argument to thesis statement length.

I can only hope to know as much as you two gentlmen one day but lets keep it short and too the point

[bigjohnnofish]

short and sweet - dissolved organic compounds which i refer to as DOCS build up as nitrates do...  i found out more about this topic -> was from a big tank with big fish and big bioloads and was trying to work out why big fish was scratching occasionally.... in normal sized tanks this just doesnt seem to happen anywhere near as much and i never experienced it at all actually for well over 5 years... so i can see why buccal kept it sweet and simple to begin with... you must learn to walk first before you can run once you're a confident walker - you can start running... firm believe in KISS - keep it simple stupid... 

 

with keeping L_numbers and breeding and growing up fry i can tell you a low level of nitrates is a must or fry will simply die off - get skinny - lose colour -> and you will think you have some sinister disease or bacterial/fungal problems etc etc.... when all the problem is -> nitrate -> and not necessary big levels either -> 40ppm does damage.... 

[sandgroper]

Simple (it's a no brainer) you keep any thing in it's own waste, it will get sick. Humans included, so maintenance is essential.

[Buccal]

.

Edited by Buccal, 19 April 2016 - 02:16 PM.

[Androo]

Buccal, im not having a go at you in particular. 80% of your posts hold merit and have value (the other 20% i feel is repeating yourself or off topic), i dont feel syd is posting to belittle you or, im sure he would post on anyones thst he feels needs explanation from his understanding as iv seen you do on others. Its actually beneficial having both of you post, those that read either explanation can take the meaning they wish.

Im a noob as they say and im also not that smart but to be honest (and this is nothing against you) i read syds posts more fluid than yours but i know that a lot would appreciate yours. You arent a victim so can we please stay on topic.

[Chopstick_mike]

Could I ask a question may sound dumb but I've never really bred anything .
People say you can tell when a female is ready to breed by holding eggs ?? Is this true ??

[Delapool]

I also probably had another dumb question but I was wondering what people use in tank setups and growing out tanks. Everything I've bred has been by accident so just out of interest. I've read about sponge filters but was wondering if anything else goes in there that might be considered to make the fish feel more secure? Like I guess any pots for cover or sand bottom even. My knowledge base is very low with cichlids so this is hopefully a general question.

Edited by Delapool, 17 April 2016 - 04:23 PM.

[malawiman85]

Delapool,

Breeding tanks should be minimal to keep water quality higher and maintenance/disturbance low. Other than that though it mostly depends on the type of breeders they are
Sub spawners, mouth brooders, egg scatterers, etc.

[Chopstick_mike]

Literally did a big water change and my yellow belly Alberts started doing the dance and still going now this thread is even more important to me

[Poncho]

Chopstick you can tell with a trained eye - the genitalia swell and protrude a little and eventually an egg deposited tube comes out. Also the female can sometimes look a bit plumper further down the body as opposed to where the stomach is.

[Maaxim]

I also probably had another dumb question but I was wondering what people use in tank setups and growing out tanks. Everything I've bred has been by accident so just out of interest. I've read about sponge filters but was wondering if anything else goes in there that might be considered to make the fish feel more secure? Like I guess any pots for cover or sand bottom even. My knowledge base is very low with cichlids so this is hopefully a general question.

What Tank Setup? There is no simple answer to your question I believe.... The good start will be to actually select one type of fish you would like to breed and investigate the natural habitat to establish what happens in the natural biotop...

If the tank to be big or small you would need to find out how does the fish breed in the nature. Will it get very aggressive or rather be left in the dark in piece and quite. Is this a pair or a group?

Do you need to simulate strong water flow to recreate a river type environment or very slow moving or water not moving at all .... All of the above should be considered to  create appropriate breeding set-up. You would not leave the tank bare bottom if the fish lays eggs in sand for example....or you would not select rocks for Discus breeding...

There is no universal answer to your question as you can see..

I have best fry growing results using sponge filters but I exclusively breed Tanganyikan cichlids there could be other fish species where sponge filters may not be the best option?/ 

Just out of curiosity could someone please confirm usage of sponge filters not always a very best option while breeding  "x" species? I may be wrong...