Aqua Green Products And The Ei
#1
Posted 19 January 2012 - 01:26 PM
Which products can i buy from Aqua Green to be used in the Estimative Index?
There is alot of info on the net and its a little confusing because not all the chemicals listed on EI pages are easily available and im hoping the Aqua Green has substitutes for them but i dong know which is which.
Can anybody help me with a dosing regime using products from Aqua Green?
Dino Pee and Dino Spit have been mentioned alot of times as well as using dry ferts but i dont know if i should use both at the same time or not.
Thanks for your help.
Im dosing about 900l.
Cheers.
Simon.
#2
Posted 19 January 2012 - 06:08 PM
#3
Posted 19 January 2012 - 07:16 PM
#4
Posted 19 January 2012 - 08:27 PM
http://www.aquariumo...zers-additives/
if you have an idea what you want as a dry mix, I can organise that for you too.
Edited by Mr_docfish, 19 January 2012 - 08:28 PM.
#5
Posted 20 January 2012 - 07:38 PM
correct me if im wrong doc.
click me http://www.barrrepor...t-for-EI-dosing
ps: got any of those up aqua atomisers in? will come in tomorrow and grab one if so
#6
Posted 20 January 2012 - 09:04 PM
Got plenty of inline atomizers... just work out what ID your hoses are.
#7
Posted 20 January 2012 - 09:05 PM
#8
Posted 21 January 2012 - 05:45 AM
It contains :
Nitrogen
Potassium
Magnesium
Iron
Molybdenum
Manganese
Boron
Zink
Copper
So it contains alot of traces including iron.
Ie Craig bought monopotAssium phosphates and Magnesium sulphate, and is also dosing seachem iron, the good thing about pee is it contains all of these in one easy bottle, just squirt and go. Although the levels of each material is not stated we should be able to work out what we are missing from what the plants tell us.
#9
Posted 21 January 2012 - 09:53 AM
So let me get this right....
Use Dino Pee daily per the instructions on the bottle and top up the nutrients that appear deficient given the guide above?
Is that right?
But doing it this way isnt the estimative index is it?
But it works for you?
would you still do a 50% water change per week?
What i need to achieve is a liquid solution that is easy to administer. I was interested in the EI but premixing the chemicals is what turned me off. I want to use a dosing pump so premixed chemicals wont work.
Thanks
#10
Posted 21 January 2012 - 10:36 AM
If you are using a complete fertiliser like Dino Pee and have an iron deficiency, you will have to overdose on other things in order to elevate the iron levels. Possibly leading to algae issues etc...
kassysimon - what do you mean by not being able to use a dosing pump with premixed chemicals? Have a read of waruna's tank journal. He is using dosing pumps with various EI solutions
It also depends on the plants you are keeping. Hyphanheaven has less demanding plants, that may be fine with solely Dino Pee. However, if you want to grow more exotic and advanced species, you may find EI is the best way to go
#11
Posted 21 January 2012 - 10:49 AM
Im just looking for the easiest solution for an automated tank.
#12
Posted 21 January 2012 - 11:09 AM
I co2 or to much light,
Have a good read over Tom Barrs forum as he has experimented over the last 20 years and he made the ei so he's knows what he's doing, ei is intact
Meant to make an abundance of nutrients so there are no deficiencies but its up to you to ensure there's adequate lighting and co2 so that the plants can grow without letting algea get a foot in the door
#13
Posted 21 January 2012 - 11:18 AM
Maybe just Dino Pee to start with
#14
Posted 21 January 2012 - 11:28 AM
#15
Posted 21 January 2012 - 11:37 AM
#16
Posted 21 January 2012 - 12:13 PM
#17
Posted 21 January 2012 - 02:51 PM
#18
Posted 21 January 2012 - 04:56 PM
#19
Posted 21 January 2012 - 08:24 PM
#20
Posted 21 January 2012 - 09:11 PM
CO2 ALONE DOES NOT PREVENT ALGAE!!!
The CO2 will assist plant growth, if there is not enough CO2 available, then the plants will use the bicarbonates in the tank.... if you have strong lighting, and you add heaps of ferts (intensive or hi tech plant growing) then you will need to add CO2 to balance out all the requirements the plants need. If the plants do 100%, then they will convert the CO2 to O2 - to a point where they will pearl (saturation of O2 in the water)..... now here comes some biology - plants produce an enzyme called oxidase to protect themselves from the corrosiveness of O2... now algae do not produce as much of this oxidase as higher order plants do - ie: if you add peroxide into an aquarium, you will kill off algae before you harm plants.... now back to the O2 production in a high tech planted tank - if the O2 levels are high for long term, any algae will eventually succumb to it.
Now, if you sterilise and quarantine your plants (like the supremo Tom Bar does) you wont get as many algae issues blowing out in your tank.... but if you do come across an algae problem, it can easily be controlled by looking at the balance of nutrients and trace provided to the tank. This might need water testing - expensive if you look at some of the rarer kits like potassium... so the EI WAS DEVELOPED BY THE DUTCH FOR HYDROPONIC USE long before Tom Bar used it in aquariums..... basically, flush, refill and redose..... the only difficulty was to work out what to add and how much - this is all dependant on the strength of lighting, CO2 availability and plant species.
If you add a small amount of standard complete fert mix (ie Leaf zone, florena) and check your NO3 and PO4 levels then you will still get good plant growth without too many algae issues, and any plants that you find difficult, avoid them and just do plants that prefer you tank as it is, or change the fert regime to suit or add extra lighting and CO2 if required.
Start simple, learn a few easy deficiency symptoms, and advance from there if you wish.
Edited by Mr_docfish, 21 January 2012 - 09:13 PM.
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