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PCS & Stuart M. Grant - Cichlid Preservation Fund - Details here


Clownman

Member Since 02 Dec 2011
Offline Last Active Mar 02 2012 09:57 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Got White Spot, Grrrrr

27 February 2012 - 09:39 AM

I'll be whatever I want to be, point is- someone wanted info, and I stumbled across some. If I had access to a pc and not just my iPhone I might be more inclined to link ect then just copy it for reference. All too hard on an iPhone.

In Topic: Got White Spot, Grrrrr

26 February 2012 - 10:14 PM

The life cycle of this parasite is interesting and is important to understand when evaluating a treatment. The stage where the parasite is attached to a fish is called a trophont. The trophont will spend three to seven days (depending on temperature) feeding on the fish and that is what you see symptomatically when you see "salt sprinkled on the fish". After that, the trophont leaves the fish and becomes what is called a protomont. This protomont travels to the substrate and begins to crawl around for usually two to eight hours, but it could go for as long as eighteen hours after it leaves it's fish host. Once the protomont attaches to a surface, it begins to encyst and is now called a tomont. Division inside the cyst into hundreds of daughter parasites, called tomites, begins shortly thereafter. This noninfectious stage can last anywhere from three to twenty-eight days. During this extended period, the parasite cyst is lying in wait for a host. After this period, the tomites hatch and begin swimming around, looking for a fish host. At this point, they are called theronts, and they must find a host within twenty-four hours or die. They prefer to seek out the skin and gill tissue, then transform into trophonts, and begin the process all over again. What this means is that when your tank is infected, you can actually see symptoms during a very small part of the life cycle, and it why your tank is infected even though your fish are resistant. It will also explain why symptoms come and go.

Many hobbyists are fooled into believing they have cured their fish of the parasites, only to find Ich present again on fish a few weeks later; a reason why following through with a full treatment protocol is so important. Don't make this mistake and be lulled into a false sense of security. The parasites may be in a stage where they are merely regrouping and multiplying for their "next offensive." In the wild, this sort of massive reproductive phase ensures that a few will find a suitable host to continue on the cycle. In the close confines of our aquariums, though, it means comparatively massive infection rates.

This disease is usually associated with several environmental triggers. Changes in water temperature, exposure to high levels of ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate, low pH levels, low dissolved oxygen often associated with overcrowding, are all factors contributing to the onset of the disease. You could lump all of these in a general category of "stress", but it is more appropriate to think of all of these as "unnatural conditions". In fact, Cryptocaryon irritans is rare in the wild even more unlikely to be lethal. Ich is truly a disease that exploits the conditions of captivity to reproduce and easily find suitable hosts.

By the way, trophonts are under the skin so cleaner wrasses and cleaner shrimp have no real effect on reducing this parasite.


Treatments which work and Myths and Truths about Marine Ich

Treatments which work:

1. Hyposalinity - Using a refractometer, hold salinity at 11ppt to 12ppt until 4 weeks after the last spot was seen. (Best to use salinity, but if you use specific gravity, that equates to roughly 1.008 to 1.009 sp. gr. units). Raise salinity slowly and observe fish for 4 more weeks. It is difficult to control pH and water quality during treatment, however this is the least stressful treatment for the fish.

2. Copper treatment - Follow medication recommendations. This can be effective in 2 to 4 weeks of treatment. After treatment, remove all copper and observe fish for 4 more weeks. Copper is a poison to the fish and creates some stress.

3.. Transfer method – The fish is moved from tank to tank to separate the fish from the cysts that fall off and the free-swimming stages of the parasite. Two hospital tanks are needed to perform this treatment. The fish is stressed by having to keep moving it between these hospital tanks.

4. These are the ONLY 3 known cures that work almost 100% of the time. Other chemicals will kill the Cryptocaryon irritans parasite, but only in special conditions that are not good for the fish. Some chemicals will only kill some of the organisms, letting the others escape death to go on to multiply and infect.

Direct copy from reef central- all credit to whoever originally posted it.

In Topic: Mixing Clown Species

26 February 2012 - 05:04 PM

After googling red saddleback that is definitely a red saddleback. Thanks for the I'd. She would be female as its been in a tank with a blue damsel for years. Very docile, she shares the helio with my tiny occy and even let's him stalk her. Sadly enough these two show more pairing behavior then when it was just the two occys"

In Topic: Mixing Clown Species

26 February 2012 - 02:52 PM

No idea the latin name, the main characteristic is they lose they're stripe as they mature. Google has a fair bit of info on em.

In Topic: Mixing Clown Species

25 February 2012 - 11:08 PM

Cinnamon, fire clown, very red and black, similar to a tomato. My partners watching the tank as I'm on call, but apparently the large cinnamon and my male occy are sharing an anenome whilst they sleep. Very cute, and good to see no signs f aggression so far.