Heating Outdoor Ponds
#1
Posted 08 September 2010 - 06:50 PM
#2
Posted 08 September 2010 - 09:13 PM
Although there could be other contributing factors that may help or hinder... buried tank? waterfall? any timer on/off for filtration or water movement?
#3
Posted 12 September 2010 - 08:32 PM
Just attach the pump in the normal fashion on the side it pumps water back into the pool (or pond) attach a sufficiently large sealed drum and have some pipe on the other side of the drum back to the pool (essentially meaning you have a pipe with a drum in it ).
All you need to do to raise the temperature of the water massively is light a fire next to the drum or attach a small electric element to it. Obviousely the water runs through and gets heated at a reasonable cost money wise and this is very cheap to set up considering you only need a small slow pump.
You could get a fire going stoke it a bit and walk off and set ur pump to turn off in 4-5 hours when the fire would be burnt out. Or set the pump and ellement on a timer.
Might not sound practical but its cheap and it will work and its cheap. Wood is free. An electric element is more expensive obviousely. And it will easily raise your over night temps buy a large degree. This worked for a 9500 litre above ground pool in a place where temps could get below zero some nights.
I am going to use this method to heat a 3900 litre pool in my garage using this method. Breeders in it while they are out of season ect and maybe growing out fry in it from time to time depending on circumstances.
Hope this gives you some ideas
#4
Posted 12 September 2010 - 10:12 PM
i will be using a coil heater + thermostat to regulate. is it the most effective way to go? i dont know...
i have thought about those black solar mats for pools that absorb the suns rays and heat up as water circulates but how well they work in winter i dont know.
#5
Posted 13 September 2010 - 07:36 PM
I guess all I want to be able to do is keep the water temp above 20 deg to hold a barra or two. It should heat up to high 20/low 30s in summer. I've read they'll survive at around 20 degs, but will shut down any lower.
I've also thought of using one of those pool covers that float on the water to act as a blanket during the cooler months and keep heat in.
#6
Posted 17 September 2010 - 09:01 PM
#7
Posted 22 September 2010 - 09:53 PM
The main way I hope to take the chill off is by running a series of lengths of black poly pipe across my very hot black roof tiles. Ill have a separate pump servicing this with a moderately low flow rate. There will be a heater permanently in the pond, this will be run with a thermostat. Theoretically the heater will only come on during the cooler months.
The pond will be mostly covered so this is retain a fair amount of heat and cut down on evaporation. Summer may be an issue with the cover though so its all trial and error at this stage
#8
Posted 22 September 2010 - 11:20 PM
I know a few people that heat their pools by pumping water up onto lengths of copper pipe on the roof (north facing).
#9
Posted 23 September 2010 - 02:30 AM
#10
Posted 23 September 2010 - 02:46 AM
#11
Posted 23 September 2010 - 07:16 PM
If it were running uncontrolled continuously in such a small volume of water then its just asking for trouble.
I will be starting mine in the next few weeks so ill keeps ya's posted.
#12
Posted 23 September 2010 - 07:55 PM
#13
Posted 23 September 2010 - 09:08 PM
I suppose if the pipes drain out to let air in, then it should not be a problem??? Hmm, worth thinking about....
#14
Posted 23 September 2010 - 09:12 PM
#15
Posted 23 September 2010 - 11:46 PM
In addition to such active heating, you could use passive heating. Ie. Make sure it gets sun in the morning. Plant deciduous trees around it so it gets shade in summer but sun in winter. Try placing a large garden greenhouse over the pond.
If you get to build it from scratch, put a concrete slab or paving bits (anything with good thermal mass) under the pond to act as a thermal battery. Place the pond on the northern side of the house, or better yet in a solarium / solar conservatory in the house (or shed) itself.
The advantage of passive design is that all it costs is a little more design work. Sunlight is free.
#16
Posted 28 September 2010 - 01:15 PM
I also like the coils inside the compost bin idea....could just work.
#17
Posted 28 September 2010 - 10:12 PM
Heating is achieved by pumping the water through 25mm poly pipe laid out in a grid pattern on the tin roof of my fish room, the pump starts when the temp on the roof reaches 25c and switches off when the temp drops below 25c. From about mid Oct the heating is switched off until mid March.
This year I started pumping hot air from the hothouse useing the same thermostat into the fishroom, this reduced gas heating by 25%
The pics were taken 5 years ago
Cheers Terry
Attached Files
#18
Posted 28 September 2010 - 10:57 PM
#19
Posted 29 September 2010 - 11:06 AM
#20
Posted 29 September 2010 - 02:24 PM
Awesome idea. Do you have any pics of the heating grid? Does it take long to heat up to 25C in winter? I'm guessing you have some sort of thermostat wired into the grid?
What sort of fish are you keeping in there?
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users