Building Material
#1
Posted 01 June 2011 - 07:24 PM
Just wanting to draw on some experience
What's the best material to construct an above ground pond from?.
I was thinking of brick and render the inside and out will this work or is the concrete / render band for the fishes?.
Should I fiberglass or use a liner
Any suggestions would be helpful
Cheers
Chris
#2
Posted 01 June 2011 - 08:08 PM
#3
Posted 01 June 2011 - 08:34 PM
#4
Posted 01 June 2011 - 08:56 PM
Cheers.
#6
Posted 02 June 2011 - 06:59 AM
#7
Posted 02 June 2011 - 11:20 PM
#8
Posted 03 June 2011 - 06:52 AM
#9
Posted 03 June 2011 - 06:25 PM
Maybe look there and see if you can find it?? ( is well worth a look )
Graeme
#10
Posted 03 June 2011 - 08:58 PM
Maybe look there and see if you can find it?? ( is well worth a look )
Graeme
#11
Posted 04 June 2011 - 12:57 AM
most important thing is the footings and slab.... make sure you have a good size sand pad also... thats if you want it too last and not crack... good thing being full of water helps regulate the temperature of the bricks during hotter months as well as cooler months... which reduces expansion and shrinkage of the brickwork and slab... nothing lasts forever but if you do it properly first time it'll last your lifetime...
also theres a wire reinforcement you can use and you lay it between brick courses (layers or levels) its 4 strands long and has crossovers every few inches... often referred to chicken wire in the industry although its definitely not chicken wire.... it comes in a roll.... if you ever have to knock down some brickwork with this in it you'll see why its so good....
im not a plasterer but you can mix bondcrete and sealers in with the plaster to water proof it... plus a good final sealer once its all dry and it should never leak....
good bit of advice you may like to build in a drain and plug into one side of the pond....
#12
Posted 04 June 2011 - 08:06 AM
When you said the attached link I assume you mean the backyardaquonics link??
I was thinking of makine it about 1200mm above ground will that be ok at one brick thickness??
When you put the first course down do you put it onto of the pad or next to it?? I suppose what I'm asking is what is the order of doing things?. Pad then bricks on top of that or coarse of bricks then pad is floated inside that??
Cheers for the help
#14
Posted 05 June 2011 - 12:32 AM
so to explain it easier - sand pad approx 200mm thick/deep compacted and levelled... now dig footing 200mm wide and 100mm deep around the edge where the walls will go.... board up round the outside 100mm high so when you pour the slab it will be 200mm thick on the outside edge (200mm in) and 100mm thick through the middle... level it all up before putting concrete in and use some concrete mesh in the slab as well.... make the mesh sit 50mm down in the slab.... ie) dont drop mesh down and pour concrete on top... lol....
to be extra sure use concrete with a 40mpa rating..... prob not necessary!!! better over kill then under killed...
#15
Posted 05 June 2011 - 10:45 AM
When it comes to waterproofing I was going to render it all the use a waterproofing type paint so how will the join between the brick work and the pad go, should I cover the join with render to take the 90 deg bend out of it??
#16
Posted 05 June 2011 - 10:20 PM
#17
Posted 05 June 2011 - 10:42 PM
or use a concrete bessa block concrete filled as you said with a horizontal 12mm reo bar and a vertical 12mm reo bar through the cores
you would want to stay away from steel lintels and brick together as they cool and heat at different heat exchange property's that will cause cracks OK for non water tight applications but not for water tight applications as the joint from masonry to steel will crack
depending on what you want to spend you can now get spray on fibre glass if i was doing it i would go this way
yellow sand compacted black plastic mesh on 60mm chairs 100mm slab no thickning (no downward pressure @1200mm high )
12mm cranked reo @ every 2nd bessa block core bessa block walls with brick lintels for viewing panel silicone and scrim to corners black jack(dampcrete/dampcorse) to internal block work fiberglass liner ... now i think that will do for your sump ......................................
#18
Posted 05 June 2011 - 11:39 PM
When it comes to waterproofing I was going to render it all the use a waterproofing type paint so how will the join between the brick work and the pad go, should I cover the join with render to take the 90 deg bend out of it??
yes when your slab is dry and cured (at least a week minimum) just start laying your bricks on slab.... yes with a beed of mortar between brick and concrete... just the same as between the bricks...
1200 high should be fine with single brick (standard bricks not fastwall)
any ideas how your glass panel will be fixed into place ???
#19
Posted 06 June 2011 - 08:26 AM
Hope this makes sence.
How small could the top lintel be do you think I'm trying to steer away from a big chunky frame at the top where the galss will be of I reenforced the concrete lintel with bar could it be say 100mm high x the standard brick size deep??
Edited by Skuts, 06 June 2011 - 08:27 AM.
#20
Posted 06 June 2011 - 08:47 AM
you can lay commons on there side together and run reo through the holes in the middle and then grout to make your own.
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