Jump to content





Posted Image

PCS & Stuart M. Grant - Cichlid Preservation Fund - Details here


Photo

Skinny fish


  • Please log in to reply
18 replies to this topic

#1 superdavey

superdavey
  • Forum Member
  • Joined: 02-August 07
  • Location: Roleystone Perth WA

Posted 03 September 2007 - 08:48 PM

I have an "Apricot" Peacock that I bought from Morley a year or so ago. Over the past 3 months its colours have dropped and it has become quite skinny and not very active - it doesn't look like it is dying (all finage is up etc). Any ideas? here are some pics:





#2 keenas

keenas
  • Forum Member
  • Joined: 05-February 06
  • Location: Canningvale, Perth WA

Posted 03 September 2007 - 09:27 PM

Is it in a tank by its self? I have had some fish deteriorate like this also and the only way to fix the up was to put them in a tank by themselves to fatten them up. Seem like they get to a point were they cant compete with the other fish in the tank for food and go downhill from there.
HTH
John

#3 the_german

the_german
  • Forum Member
  • Joined: 05-March 07
  • Location: forrestfield

Posted 03 September 2007 - 10:15 PM

could be internal worms,whats the poo look like?
white and stringy?

#4 Mr_docfish

Mr_docfish
  • PCS Club Member
  • Joined: 29-July 07
  • Location: Canning Vale WA

Posted 03 September 2007 - 11:15 PM

Looking at its big eye compared to its body size, and the downward spinal curve, it is either old age (some peacocks can live for a long time and others not so long - just look at humans) or it has been suffering a minor problem most of its life (genetic, mental, physical, parasitic etc) and time has caught up with it.

If you are still attached to it, or you want to give it a go, try keeping it by itself, and fatten it up. You may need to entice it with live food to begin with. Don't bother trying to treat it with chemicals while it is in poor condition. But if it passes away, you might want to get an autopsy done to rule out parasites just in case you might need to treat your tank (don't try to treat it without knowing what it is, if it is anything at all)

doc

#5 madasa

madasa
  • Banned
  • Joined: 12-January 07
  • Location: ocean reef

Posted 04 September 2007 - 09:17 AM

Internal parasites could be a cause but your fish just looks malnourished IMO. Perhaps the competitiion for food is too strong?

As Doc said the spine curvature also seems wrong.

I would isolate and feed alone with aquarium salt at 1tbsp per gallon in this case and heat up to 30 with lots of aeration - if no improvement after one week feeding three times a day then I would try some metronidazole at 250mg per 10G.

Is it me or do the fishes gills look red and inflamed? Could there be something bactaraemic going on?

Any other redness on the fish?

What does its poo look like?

Any other fish with symptoms?

Does this fish have any other symtoms?

PH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate please.
Pete

#6 superdavey

superdavey
  • Forum Member
  • Joined: 02-August 07
  • Location: Roleystone Perth WA

Posted 04 September 2007 - 12:41 PM

I am at work at the moment so I cannot get any water conditions yet.

I fed the fish this morning and watched the fish closely. He seems to be able to get food and no other fish was stopping him. I have a 6x2x2 tank so there is plenty of room for the food to spread around. i am trying to catch it mid-poo but no luck yet.

The redness around the gills is apparent but no other redness is visible. I do think the images make him look fatter than he actually is.

Unfortunately I do not have another tank in which to separate him into to try to treat him by himself.

Also no other fish has any similar issues.

#7 Noobfish

Noobfish
  • Forum Member
  • Joined: 09-August 07
  • Location: Murdoch

Posted 04 September 2007 - 01:00 PM

if u live near murdoch i can give u a tank for free which my dad picked off the side of the road it is about 1.5 foot x10" needs a good clean though doesnt look like it will leak

#8 madasa

madasa
  • Banned
  • Joined: 12-January 07
  • Location: ocean reef

Posted 04 September 2007 - 01:44 PM

Use a bucket with a heater and sponge filter.

Pete

#9 NicholasC

NicholasC
  • Forum Member
  • Joined: 19-February 07
  • Location: Forrestfield, Perth WA

Posted 04 September 2007 - 04:21 PM

Perhaps a floating divider? Or if you want to cut off the risk of it spreading then i have a 2x1x1 and some spare heaters and pump if you want to setup a quarentine tank?

If not pete has a good idea just use good airation and many water changes and a bucket should do a treat biggrin.gif

#10 superdavey

superdavey
  • Forum Member
  • Joined: 02-August 07
  • Location: Roleystone Perth WA

Posted 04 September 2007 - 05:03 PM

Thanks for all the offers of a tank, but I am a bit unsure about the stress that the fish might endure with all the changes in condition.

I fed the fish again this afternoon and he ate plenty. I am still waiting for a poo though.

I think I may take up NicolasC on his offer once I see a poo.

#11 superdavey

superdavey
  • Forum Member
  • Joined: 02-August 07
  • Location: Roleystone Perth WA

Posted 04 September 2007 - 05:23 PM

Did some water tests

pH 7.8
nitrate 0-5 ppm
kH 6 ppm
nitrite < 0.3 mg/l

which all looks fine would have liked higher pH and kH but water here (Roleystone) is very low in both.

#12 madasa

madasa
  • Banned
  • Joined: 12-January 07
  • Location: ocean reef

Posted 04 September 2007 - 05:35 PM

Follow my previous advice but recheck that nitrite and, importantly, ammonia. Those red gills might be ammonia burn.

Pete

#13 superdavey

superdavey
  • Forum Member
  • Joined: 02-August 07
  • Location: Roleystone Perth WA

Posted 04 September 2007 - 06:36 PM

I do not have an ammonia test kit so I cannot test that at the moment.

I have been talking to my wife and she thinks it's been that way for longer than 3 months.

Also still no poo

#14 madasa

madasa
  • Banned
  • Joined: 12-January 07
  • Location: ocean reef

Posted 05 September 2007 - 08:18 AM

Lets resummarize;

Thin fish but eating.
Pooh not available.
Chemicals ok but ammonia unchecked.

Have you aded the salt for the week?

At the end of this week if no definate improvement then water change 50% and you have to attack it with metronidazole and salt at 1tbsp to 5G (only replace salt lost in WC) - You must remember toi increase temp and aerate water more.

Also feed small and very often with good filtration as from now. If you need to water change before the week is up then replace salt lost.

If no improvement after this then we need to reconsider treatment.

How old is the fish - doesnt look old but the spine curvature might indicate it will be stunted.

Cheers

Pete

#15 superdavey

superdavey
  • Forum Member
  • Joined: 02-August 07
  • Location: Roleystone Perth WA

Posted 05 September 2007 - 09:50 AM

When you say salt do you mean lake malawi salt or just non-iodized salt. Also where is the best place to get metronidazole, from a chemist?

#16 madasa

madasa
  • Banned
  • Joined: 12-January 07
  • Location: ocean reef

Posted 05 September 2007 - 04:33 PM

Pure salt non iodized - pool salt would do.

Metronidazole - you should be able to get a script from a vet ... just say your fish may have hexamita (white stringy poo or hole in the head if he asks for any symptoms).

Your GP might do you a script.

Treat at 250mg per 10G - can be 8G but I always go to 10 as thats me. Havent had call to use it for a while but just recently I did prophylactically.

Pete

#17 benckie

benckie
  • Forum Member
  • Joined: 19-August 06
  • Location: Bunbury W.A

Posted 05 September 2007 - 05:04 PM

one for fish one for me one for fish two for me :?

#18 tywonreef

tywonreef
  • Forum Member
  • Joined: 06-August 07
  • Location: Armadale

Posted 11 September 2007 - 11:29 PM

hi there super davey its troy here from morley aquariums.sorry about the fish mate.can you remember if he was in good nick when you bought it.there is two things that is happening.one he could have an internal parasite in his intestinal tract that needs to bbe treated with an anti parasite or your water paremeters are not right.genarally speaking on a personal opinion id have the ph at 8-8.5 and dkh of 8-12 no ammonia no nitrite min nirate.he needs the best conditions.the way i look at it treat your fish how you would be treated.isolation less light less feeds but feed medicated foods like say spectrum theraA and good water quality.do that mate succession usually comes.but feel free to contact shop regarding your situation.cheers


tywonreef

#19 superdavey

superdavey
  • Forum Member
  • Joined: 02-August 07
  • Location: Roleystone Perth WA

Posted 12 September 2007 - 06:48 AM

Hi Troy

thanks for the response. first I would like to say that I mentioned that it was bought from Morley aquariums only because I think you have the best shop for cichlids, basically about 90% of my purchases come from there and I am always happy with advise given on anything.

To get the water conditions correct I have been using Seachem Malawi Victoria Buffer and Seachem Cichlid Lake Salt (bought from you guys). When I do a water change I put in 5 teaspoons of each but do not add anymore until the next water change. As I said in a previous post I have really low pH and carbon hardness out of my taps (Roleystone). What dosage do you think I should be doing?

The fish is still the same eats okay looks happy, I even saw him push another fish about the same size as him out the way of some food. Have not seen a poo yet.




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users